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Ford ignition problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by piche582, Mar 24, 2010.

  1. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    Okay, I have a little bit of a problem with a Slightly O/T mid 60's Ford ignition switch. I've tried 3 different switches with no change. I can jump the leads on the back and the car will start up. The problem comes when I use the key. I get no power from the Hot in/Common to the Start position. Everything else works fine, power to both the ACC and RUN is fine. I have .5 OHM's from the back of the switch, through the neutral safety & ending at the ground for the solenoid. I know I'm missing something seemingly stupid here. Also, what is the function of the 4th wire on the outside of the switch that only grounds the switch when it is in the Start position? The car is completely re-wired with a universal wiring harness also. This is the only place I seem to have a problem & I'm baffled.
     
  2. Ignore the outside lead. It grounds out in crank mode to prove out the Brake Warning bulb. It should have two violet wires going to it.

    So is this a No crank problem or a no ignition power problem?
     
  3. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    I figured the ground was pointless to my problem, but I had to throw it in there. It's a no Crank problem. All the wiring is new. Uses the post on the BAT wire with a nut, has a new wire & new ringterminal, soldered & heat shrink tubing. Power in is not the problem. Only not getting power to the Start position on the switch. I've always been tought in a few ASE and heavy equipment electrical cl***es to check for continuity across the switchcuz its the true tell all. You can have a light illuminate but still not be getting full power & if you're only a few volts shy it's not gonna be dim enough to tell. Starting circuit is fine. I can run a jumper from BAT to START and it turns over. Just can't figure out how I seem to have no power from BAT to START (O volts on the meter)when in that position on 3 seperate switches. Only thing I can think of is a brake in the Start terminal in the plug itself (I've been backprobing with the rear cover on the plug removed) so when I get home from work on Friday I'm going to re-terminate it & cross me fingers. Driving me freakin nuts!
     
  4. Okay, you may just have a miswire at the switch.. First thing. The bolt in the middle is for ACCESSORY power out. It was designed so additional options could be attached at the back. If you have power going IN on this then it is disconnected during cranking(shuts off the radio etc) hence your problem

    The wire 21 on the diagram is POWER IN. It would be Yellow usually on a Ford and comes from the Fuse box. It wasn't actually fused back in those days, it was just a handy splice point for battery power. Wire 32 is the wire to the starter relay (solenoid) and is red with blue originally. Powered during cranking. It goes through the neutral safety switch on an Automatic car.
    Wire 16A is the ignition power wire to the coil it is green with red originally ( or pink sometimes depending on year and model). It has a pink resistance wire in line with it, often wrapped in cloth insulation. It is powered in run (obviously!).
    During cranking the coil gets full 12 volts from a brown wire from the starter relay.

    Hope this helps.
     

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  5. piche582
    Joined: May 12, 2005
    Posts: 248

    piche582
    Member
    from Sonora, Ca

    That sure looks like the problem. I had a not very good diagram and no computer at home (I'm at work now) That'll hopefully clear things up. I just went wire for wire off the orig wiring schematic & my aftermarket one but must've got them mixed up plus the OG one had been heavily "modified" (think scotchloks, Yah!) which always helps the situation. Continuity & votage drops have always worked well for me & I've never had a problem that didn't solve (I know they don't solve all thought) I did test it with a light before breaking out the meter as thats always a little faster just not across those two terminals, I see what your saying now 440roadrunner & didn't want to run it through my meter (cuz doing that did cross my mind) as that should be a little more that the 10 amps it can take, but it looks like I apparently got a little tunnel vision on the S terminal and what I thought was the B+ terminal. It had me frazzled to the point of giving up the other day & finishing up some other loose ends on the car & playing on my new tractor. Thanks for your help everybody!
     

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