Hey guys, I am looking to oreder a set of 3 inch lowering blocks w/ hardware for my 50 Chevy. Who sells the best set for the money, and has the best prices. I have found universal kits on ebay for about 60 bucks, but they don't say if they are slightly tapered or not. I don't have the $$$ to bag the car, so I am looking to block the rear and cut the front springs. Also does anybody on the HAMB sell these, I would rather help out somebody that's a HAMBer than some jerk-off on ebay. Please let me know, and as always any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!!! Also how far "should" I be able to block this car safely??? and do they need a taper to keep the correct pinion angle???? The car is sitting high enough now to be a truck, and that's with 14" wheels, and I'm planning on switching to 15s with wide whites, so I will regain an inch of ground clearence...Thanks again!!!!!
are you still running the stock rear end? that will narrow down your choices since it is a different way to mount the rear axle than regular cars. I wouldn't worry about the pinion angle. maybe chevsofthe40s.com sells a kit for the stock rear... not sure...
Just make them, I made a set for My car long time ago Got 2 s**** chunks solid alum block Drilled to holes put a peg in one for a locater pin. Ive even seen them made out of 1/4" wall box tubing And pinon not a biggie with torque tube
Pure stock, I am changing to a PG rearend outta a 53 Chev, but other than that it's stock. That is why I am questioning the universal kit. Keep it coming guys!!!
like 49ratfink said...torq tube rearend has different U bolts and narrower springs...no worries about driveline angle to lower as there is only one u joint...You can make blocks out of heavy wall box tubing...11/2"X 3" (that's quite a bit)...drill holes for center bolt to go into and put a short center bolt on top to locate axle...go to a blacksmith shop or spring shop or good parts house and order 4 square top U boltsthat are 3" longer than the sample you can show them from your car...simple as that and cheaper too..
Ok the guy that's going to change out the rearend and chop the springs said he could make a set out of steel, rectangular stock, but I am worried anout them crushing or distorting. Also how long would the new u-bolts have to be??? And are they more square at the top, or completely round. The only reason I'm aksing is because the set I found on ebay was square at the top and it seemed a little kittywompus.....Please advise, I feel like a dumb***, but want to get the right parts, not scrambling to buy stuff at the last second and end up buying the wrong ****. Thanks again everybody!!
Don't buy those new lowering blocks. Keep searching e-bay or your local auto swap meet and buy the correct blocks which are cast iron. I found some on ebay with a 1.5 inch drop and paid $15 for the pair. Just be patient and keep looking.
yeah... the U-bolts will be square at the top . the ubolts don't go around the rear axle housing like an open drive car, they just go around the spring perch. as for length.. if you want 3" blocks you need a U-bolt that is 3" longer than stock.
If you ever get in the Aurora area you can bring one of your u-bolts to aurora spring and they will make you new one any length you want in about 15 minutes for about 40 bucks.
i made some out of square tubing a while back, and had new u-bolts made. total was like 30 or 40 bucks all said and done
The u-bolts are easy to find. Most suppliers of Chevy parts sell them and the trucks uses the same u-bolts. But use the correct blocks up to 2 inches. If you want to go lower, buy the lowered springs. Don't use those mickey mouse homemade blocks.
it seems like this is the home of home made stuff, not mickey mouse ****, but gr*** roots people making what they need and not having to open a catalog to build their cars. Thanks again, and keep it coming, also does anybody know the lenght of the new u bolts, Joliet Spring is right down the road and they should have most anything I need, or can make it. Just hoping to have a size in mind instead of waiting until the rear end is on the floor then going for bolts...Thanks again!!!!
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