Help Can I split the front wishbone 37 ford truck

This is what Im trying to do.. Im installing a SBC with a Muncie 4sp in a 37 Ford truck... Im running into problems... I want to split the front wishbone and run it to the frame.. But the spring is in front of axle and I couldnt move the wishbone arms without heating and bending something.. I dont know if I can heat up and bend between the axle and spring. Or heat up between the axle and were I cut the wishbone so I can mount to frame. I would like any input...Thanks

 

If you cut out the ball section and mount the ends to the frame underneath, problem solved. Check the kit that Ch***is Engineering has.

 

I cant use the kit they sell to split the wishbones because of the 4sp..
I was going to cut most of the cross member out and then rebuilt it..

 

The TH-350 automatic transmission mounts sold by Ch***is Engineering and other require split bones. Something on the order of 6 to eight inches. This does change the angle of the front spring perches a bit. If you have shackle bind it can be fixed with a little heat and bending. A more severe split has more effect up front and it becomes more difficult to engineer a solution.

Four bar kits are available and work good with dropped axles.

If I was going to run a dropped axle on a 37-40 I would use a 35-36 axle with a 4 bar kit.

 

You'll have to heat the spring perch arms and apply pressure while you heat the area. In other words, heat it to a red hot then keep a constant pressure on the bones, pulling them outwards.

 

Yeppers, spring in front right?

Kinda dont like those, but thats how you do it, heat and pull ez as pie, remember to go a bit to far when pulling.

As it cools it will relax a bit and try to straighten out.

 

So heat and bend in front of axle... OK...
Another thing when I do this should I also Is stall a Panhard Bar..

 

not really, if your geometry is correct you still wont need one.

 

I am facing the same situation with a 36 ford pick-up w/ spring in front of axle. can you give me pointers before i mess up something...

 

Might be easier to visualize if you remove the spring, split the wishbones, and use the tie-rod-end kit from Speedway and others to mount the split bones wherever it is most convenient.

Then heat and bend the spring-shackle mounts until they are wide enough for your spring.

 

im facing the same deal with my 37 eaton spring says not to heat the spring mount im sure they would like to sell the springs but it does make sense not to heat it up and bend. eaton said split it and tell them eye to eye measurments before split and after and they can build you a new set of springs to fit. just letting you know the other options.

 

I'm not sure the shackles would remain parallel. I tend to tweak mine as I bend the hangers. I have a pry bar that has been ground round and I slip that in the spring hangers as I heat it.

 

This is the way I did all 3 of my 40 Fords. HRP

 

I've seen a lot of people pie cut the radius rods up near the axle, bend the radius rods out to the frame rail, weld up the pie cut, and mount the radius rods there with tie rod ends. The problem is that, the further you spread the radius rods apart, the more it is going to mess up the front end geometry, and the closer together you can keep them, closer to the angle they were originally in relation to the axle, the better it is going to handle. The Ch***is Engineering kit has threaded bungs that weld into the end of the radius rod that a Ford 1 1/2 ton truck tie rod end screws into and mounts the radius rods to the X member. The other issue you are looking at is that if you run that 4 speed, the shifter is going to be in a very uncomfortable location under your right leg and back pretty far toward the seat. Good thing about the S-10 version of the T5 is that it puts the shifter in the middle and further forward.

 

Saying to not heat/bend the spring perch is silly, all of the front end components get heated and bent in a traditional style Hot Rod. That's how the axles are dropped, that's how the steering arms are dropped and aligned, and shock mounts and on and on. The spring perches are no different that the other components. Now a spring would be a different matter, but just because of temper in the spring, they are also heated and bent when they are made and/or modified.

 

You don't have to split the wishbone to install a SBC and a 4 speed. The trans will clear the wishbone ball. Of course you must remove the original trans mount and trim most of the rest of the center piece behind the ball mount. Then reinforce the top of the wishbone plate and possibly install the CE frame stiffiners or make your own as they will clear a 350 turbo they will clear the 4 speed. You will need to trim the top of the drivers side x member for shifter clearance and then build a box around the outside of the shifter for added strength. Yes you will need to bend the shifter handle for leg clearance or make your own shift lever( I used a 62 impala lever adapted to the bottom of a Hurst shifter - looked good ). It is also easy to use the original floor clutch pedal - just weld a 1 1/2 inch tab to the bottom of the clutch pedal and use 57 Chevy clutch rod, swivel and throwout arm and with a simple bend the rod will p*** thru a hole in the x member -no t******* necessary. I know this will work because I did this years ago on 2 different Forties.