Ok, I'm about to lose my freakin mind here. How in the world do I get the dadblame rear wheels off? I've tried with a hub puller after I tried to drill the keyways out and it didn't freakin budge. I tried to take the front of the pumpkin off and it would come off because it is attached to the axles inside. Is there something that I'm missing here?
You need a puller like this and a big hammer. Might try using some penetrating oil for a couple of days. Some of the guys on the P15-D24 site http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/index.php?referrerid=1152 have said they have snugged the puller as tight as they can get it and left it for a period while soaking it with the penetrating oil. Go back a while later and try to tighten it some more. Keep working at it until it comes off. Be sure to leave the nut on the end of the axle though because when it breaks loose it will come flying off with a lot of force without the nut to catch it. I have been lucky with mine as both came off pretty easy.
hkestes is correct. I have had some come off pretty easy with that style puller, and others more difficult and one I could not get off. While the puller is tightened as tight as you dare, you might try adding a little heat, Bernz-O-Matic propane torch is good, and it may help 'pop' it loose. Ray
loosed the lug nuts and the main spindle bolt and go do a few doughnuts in the parking lot. the hubs should be loosened up after that! ...thats what my buddy who knows everything about mopars told me. I couldn't drive mine but i made a puller with 1/2 plate welded to the lug nuts and 3/4 round stock stick welded together. After breaking 3 12 ton jacks and heating it up with a torch both finally came off!! good luck!
I'm just about to say screw it and go to the junkyard. What rearend would be a good swap out? Would a ford ranger rearend fit well in the 49 coronet with a little mock up of the perches etc.
Here is some info from the P15-D24 site. Also check out this thread http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=11798&highlight=rearend
My recamendation is to grind the rivets off then the drum will always come off like a regular one? After that you can use a more conventional style puller? Ben there done it and it worked for me? Oh Yah theres prob. a pointed rivet that helps register the wheel...That to has to be ground off.Your lug nutz will always register the wheel center without that piece.
Here are a couple of width charts: http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/reference_enginetrans.php?SID http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/Fordrears.html Swapping the rear axle will require mods to the drive shaft so get the shaft that goes with the rear if you can. Swapping the rear also makes it easier to swap the trans.. .
If you dont have the wheel off this wont do you any good, If you do have the wheel off the rivets are on the face of the drum offset to were the lug studs go. They atach the drum to the hub.If you remove the head of them and "pry" the drum around and "Lightly" Hit the drum with a hammer ull see the drum will brake free from the rivet holes and come off.After the drum is off I like to finish removing exess rivets from hub just incase they were to brake loose later and do some brake hardware damage?You certinlly dont have to thow.If your brake shoes happend to be all the way adjusted out and you have a lip on the back of the drum, that to will hold it from comin off?You can tell that has happend if you get drum free from hub and it wants to come off but it feels like all the hardware (springs & shoes)are trying to come off with it?If thats the case, be patient and keep workin the drum with hammer and pry bar to get it over the lip of the worn drum...I dont think there is a access hole on the backing plate on those but if there is you can de adjust the shoes so they clear the drum lip?As far as the hub goes,I use a berp gun(air hammer) with a blunt pointed tip carefully center it on the spindle and use your best trigger finger to gentlly get the air hammer goin while u hold pressure towards you with a prybar.Be carefull thow cause when it pops loose you can eat that hub if you dont have the spindle nut looselly on?Good luck I would love to be able to show you how to do it cause I have done it several times on florida old cars and arizona old cars but you will get it.....THE BIRP GUN IS YOUR FRIEND! hahahaha
Ok, I just about lost my mind doing the same thing. I broke two hub pullers from Advance Auto Parts loaner tool program before I bought a heavy duty puller online. Then two days with PB blaster, a five pound hammer, and a bernz-o-matic propane torch. Patience and the right tool is all you need. Just be careful, there is a lot of pressure there. Good luck. The photo in this thread with the hub puller is the same as mine. Big and akward, but it works.
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