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Help ID'ing Plymouth Flathead 6

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Garranimal, Mar 31, 2010.

  1. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Hey All,

    I am recent addict to this board because of my recent acquisition of a 55 Plymouth with a 230 flatty. I popped the head gasket on my maiden voyage in the car and it is out at the machine shop as we speak. As luck would have it, someone right around the corner from my house (friend of a friend deal) happened to have what he thought was a plymouth flathead out of a '37 and I now have that motor on a stand in my garage. My question for you that are smarter than me is....what is it? Here is the info I have:

    BLOCK
    1. Drivers side of block, upper, towards the front #: P6*I73307 (VIN?)
    2. Drivers side of block, lower in the center #: 10-11-37 (cast date, late '37?)
    3. Drivers side of block, lower towards the rear #: 632929-18 (casting number?)
    4. Passenger side of block, middle in the center #: P-13

    CYLINDER HEAD
    1. casting number: 632955-1

    INTAKE MANIFOLD
    1. 651259-29

    EXHAUST MANIFOLD
    1. casting number: 854429-4
    2. also has: 5-25-51 (???)

    BELL HOUSING
    1. 679708-3

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    -Garrett
     
  2. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,339

    73RR
    Member

  3. Keep the 230 and rebuild it, the 201 are a real dog.
     
  4. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    The 230 is getting rebuilt and will likely be adding the aluminum Edgy head and cam, but i was thinking about milling the head on the 201 maybe 50 thou and playing around with a turbo. I have a complete Garrett turbo and carb from a 301 pontiac......with an adjustable waste-gate...it could be fun right up to the point where the head gasket lets go..........(insert evil laugh here)
     
  5. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

  6. 58prostreet
    Joined: Dec 14, 2005
    Posts: 73

    58prostreet
    Member

    www.p15-d24. Check it out, it is where u need to be.
     
  7. 58prostreet
    Joined: Dec 14, 2005
    Posts: 73

    58prostreet
    Member

  8. johnnie
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 493

    johnnie
    Member
    from indiana


    That sounds like fun! I could possibly help out some! I have a pile of cam change gasket sets.(insert Vincent Price style evil laugh) (although I do have some for sale, I am just kidding ya).
     
  9. Keep the boost down! them long rods are the weak link. you can take .90 thou off the head if it has never been cut, but .75 is a safer bet.
     
  10. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I believe what i have read is that the '38 201 has somewhere in the neighborhood of 6.7-1 compression. Ballpark, what compression will i end up with if I take 75 thou off of the head? I was thinking i would want to stay around 8-1 max if i am going to toy with some boost.

    Ultimately, i would like to take what i learn from the 201 and add about 5lbs of boost to the 230.
     
  11. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I will take all the help i can get. Come on over, the garage doors are always open! Maybe with help i can get my 69 superbee back together too! Dang, too many projects.
     
  12. pull the rods out of the 201 and junk the rest of it. Offset grind the 230 crank, overbore .060" equals 245 cubic inches. ($$ custom pistons)

    If you're having the 230 built, make sure they "zero deck" it. Stock, the pistons are pretty far down in the hole (relative) and you'll gain much needed compression at the same time you improve your quench. Truthfully, you could even make them "pop up" some, depending on your head gasket thickness.

    Every flathead six I see or hear of getting rebuilt, the old pistons and rings are trashed. The improved quench will help cool the piston deck (detonation deterrent) to prolong its, and the rings' life. The Edgy head supposedly has an "improved" quench area.
     
  13. I cc'ed mine, Fel Pro head gasket, Edgy head, .060" over, .006" cleanup on block deck, pistons down in the hole (forget how much) and also cc'ed valve heads.
    8.66 to 1 static compression
     
  14. Garranimal
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 8

    Garranimal
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    What cam did you run? I was going to have Earl at Edgy regrind mine to a .470" lift, and i don't remember off the top of my head, what duration he quoted.
     
  15. the cam was a regrind from Schneider--.395" lift, duration 234* @.050", 105 LSA

    I used to want to try an old Isky grind-- 280* adv. duration/.448" lift, but now, I refuse to speculate what cam will work the best until I have flowbench data.
     

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