so.....after spending a half hour on these old screws tonight - I finally give up - I have PB them and I am almost to a point of stripping these silly things....... I dont wanna have to drill them but I may have to. What I am doing is trying to get the crank screws off of the front window frame. These are the ones that are connected to the actual crank. If you need a picture I will get one. Once I have that off - I would LIKE to replace the gl*** with the same old frame since that is the one that came with the car - I have a replacement one that is newish.......but it will look like it doesnt do with the car ya know? So THOSE screws are 4 on each side of the frame - they too are completely stuck. ANY secret hints to get me back on the road to actually looking outta the front window?
I had a bunch of screws in my Model T like that, and I would heat them with a propane torch, hit it with the PB while hot, heat it again, and hit it once more with PB. The heating and immediate cooling with PB would shock the rust loose and let the PB get further into the hole. It worked really well for me.
ive had good luck with putting a screwdriver on the screw and tapping it with a hammer then puting pressure on it while you turn it, or a cordless impact screw gun works great if your gentle
they make a screwdriver impact tool that is hand held and you hit the end with a hammer, although i dont think id use by the gl***. try to tighten the bolt 1st to help break the rust bond free, and then loosen the fastener.
If your not using the screws again, hit them with a mig and build up alot of tacks to where you can grip them with vise-grips and they should come out.
Get a hand held 'impact driver'. Most mororcyle shops will have them. It's like a screwdriver - with a hex-drive on the end for various sockets and screw-driver bits - and a steel handle with an internal drive mechanism built into it that causes the tip to rotate when you smack it with a hammer. Mart3406 ===============================
If you are ok with using a hammer on the area they are at, I often will use a sharp ***** punch(center punch) and drive them in the direction to loosen them. Use the ***** punch as close to the outter edge as you can get. Normally just a could hits and they start moving, then you can use the screw driver to finish taking them out. It has already been mentioned, but sometimes hitting the screw driver while it is in the screw will loosen them as well...or a hand held impact driver.
Hey inkroekt- hope all is well! One word of caution with this method- be VERY careful that you don't turn the PB into a gas. I had a good friend get some PB a little too hot and wound up in the hospital... the doctor told him that the gas he created was more toxic than cyanide!
I use this same technique, except I use break-free (same concept as PB), tap the head with a hammer a few times to loosen the rust throughout the process, then put a wrench on my scredriver for some added leaverage. I have seen the impact screwdriver, but never had the chance to use it.
The only problem with this method is you can easily strip the head of the screw if you're not careful.
Melt some candlewax in the threads. Works pretty good. If that doesn't work take an old ****py screwdriver and mig weld it on the screw. It needs at least three small tacks. The combined heat from the welder and the torque you can put on it with it welded to it does the trick every time. I've never had that last trick fail. The candlewax trick works good about 50% of the time, but the mig welded screwdriver works 100% of the time on slotted machine screws. I have a screwdriver that I use exclusively for this, but it gets shorter and shorter the more I shear of it when I am done. Lol.
X200!! (aLmost) ALWAYS works! I like to ignite the cloud of steaming PB or WD40 that comes off the hot screw!!! (Best done outside!)
Me too on the old school hand held impact driver. I reach for it if a screw just looks at me wrong. I love the way they fit nice and tight in the... well, you get the picture.
I got all the screws out of my T coupe doors (original screws) out with pb blaster and a impact screwdriver, one of the ones you hit with a hammer on the end. Worked great for me! Oops I didn't see the above post!!
pour some draino on the screws and let them sit for a minute, works every time for me, it degrades the rust in the threads
yeah, those are great. just make sure the bit you're using fits in the screw snugly and COMMIT to that first attempt.
As others have stated previously, the heating/PB trick followed up with a blow from one of these: As shooter mentioned, do NOT tap lightly - this can and will strip the head. Make sure that the bit fits the head well, the driver is going in the right direction and that you have a firm grip. Give it a whack and it should make 1/8-1/4 turn.
Dip the driver bit into valve lapping compound. The abrasive gets into the screw slot and the blade and grips like hell !!! >>>>.
When using the impact driver and hammer method I have found that if you set it to tighten direction first and give it a wack or two then set it to remove works better than trying remove first. Learned this trick by accident trying to get out those godawfull screws that hold a rotor to the hub.
---------------------------------- No. You're far less likely to strip the head of a stubborn screw with an impact driver then with a screwdriver simply because the hammer blows drive the bit into a much more solid and intimate contact with the screw head than you could ever achieve with a hand held screw driver. In addition the rotating force applied to the screw is directly proportional to the force of the hammer blow forcing the bit into contact with the screw head. Mart3406 ================================
had not heard the draino or wax advice - I will let ya know what happens later today! and the heat up / PB toxic mix is not an option for me - I dont have a propane torch...........yet THANKS
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