This past weekend, I finally sold off the old 60 gal oiless Craftsman compressor, for a monster 80 gal, 5 hp, 2 stage, oiled compressor. Not exactly sure what the make is, motor is a Baldor, the guy thought the pump was a Kellog American, and the tank had a Blackhawk tag on it. The only Blackhawk I found that made sense was a company out here in Arvada, CO that works on compressors, so I think they had refurbished/serviced it at some point. The pump is supposedly rated at 18 cfm @ 90 PSI. So Im pretty damn excited to get this thing hooked up and finally get to run my blast cabinet. But I need some wise advice, cause this is new to me. Ive read through a lot of threads but Im not sure on a few things. 1. I drained the oil to transport it on its side. It was windy as hell and I didnt want to make a 100 mile interstate trip with that much weight above the cab in my truck. Ive read to only use "Compressor oil". I've also read i can use certain motor oils. Whats best from summers to winters? Also, whats a basic amount these things take? 1 qt? 2. To do the plumbing ive read to use copper or black iron pipe? Im on a budget but want to pipe it solid. I dont need anything elaborate, just renting a shop, so i just want something simple, but efficient,reliable, and easy to setup and remove. Right now its plumbed right out of the tank with a ball valve with a 3/4 inch female threaded end. Is plumbing pretty much a matter of getting the lengths I want, bends and screwing them together? Also, i need to extend my drain out from under the tank, is this a matter of removing the drain valve and just screwing some new pipe in the bottom and out to another ball valve? 3. In regards to draining the water. I want to do this frequently for good measure. Ive read that you can drain water without emptying the tank. It seems to me that opening the valve to drain the water also opens up the enclosed tank and will release air pressure? In essence, draining the air and water from the tank. So is the idea to, open the valve, drain the water, and once the water is done spitting out, close the valve, thus not draining the entire tank of air? 4. I think this is my last question, In regards to water/oil/ particulate filters and such. I have three main uses for the compressor: blast, paint, tools. For the first two, i know i need clean, dry air. Therefore on this line from the tank should I use a water and oil separator/filter? Is there a difference between a filter and separator, what should i look for in these? Brands? Also, do i need to run an extra pressure regulator on this line to ensure Im only getting the required pressure at either the cabinet or paint gun? On the tool line, do i need to run a water separator and an oiler unit, plus another pressure regulator? 5. Where the hell should I be looking to get all this stuff? Im ***uming to stay away from HF, but is this stuff just in the plumbing section at lowes or home depot? I realize a lot of these are novice, kinda dumb questions. But I dont wanna screw up such a large investment, and i want it to work effectively. Maybe Im over thinking this even since this is only for hobby use. But I seriously appreciate any help/input/advice you guys/gals can dish out. If anything, it will help me sleep better. Thanks a ton!
#1: use a non-detergent oil in it, as most compressor oils are...... #2, yes.... #3, yes, until it stops spitting......................
Former compressor tech here. #1: 30wt non-detergent, this is what most stuff labelled "compressor oil" is. A quart should do it. There should be a sight gl*** or dipstick on it somewhere. Failing that, the old pumps have a fill plug in the bottom. "Full" is when the oil is up to the bottom thread in the plug hole. #2: Both work well, I find threading iron easier than sewating copper. Truth be told, my shop is done with 1/2" rubber air hose for ease of reconfiguring. NEVER NEVER EVER use PVC. #3: Here's what I use to drain the tank: Remove the drain fitting from the bottom and install a 90 deg elbow and install a 25' air line. Put a ball valve on the other end. Now when it's time to drain the tank, walk the hose out the shop door and blow all that *****y compressor water outside. #4 water/oil separator on the line about ten feet from the comressor to give the air a chance to cool and release the water. Use an oiler after that only on the lines you will be using air tools on. Run a sandblaster on a line WITHOUT an oiler. Use a dessicant dryer on any line used for painting. #5 Find your local Grainger supply. They say they only deal with account customers but if you show them cash they will probably sell you what you need. Good luck. Shawn
when you purchase 30# non-detergent oil their is a difference! NAPA for whatever reason is the only oil that i have used (in vacuum pumps) that did not break down and end up turning to black sludge forcing me to completely teardown the pumps. if the NAPA was $5 a qt. more other brands i would still buy it. protect your investment and change the oil at least every 6 months or sooner depending on use. it takes me 20 years of regular service on a pump to equal the purchase price of pump this week! by that time the machine it's in would need a rebuild!
I like the remote water valve dump idea. My dad's shop had two huge two-stage thumpers with m***ive tanks. After years of cracked the drain valves every night the concrete was actually getting eaten away under the valve. This is hardened industrial concrete. Loud as hell too. When I finally get my shop compressor set up I'm going to take that tip and run a vent pipe out the wall for draining the tank. Let the squirrels deal with the sound.
My compressor is set aways from the doors, i think i may just have the drain go into an old bucket or something.
Black iron pipe works great because the pipe acts as an intercooler and cools the air as it p***es. The cooler air turns any moisture into water and water is more easily caught by your water trap. Copper doesnt have as much of a thermal quality, and rubber or PVC pipe has none. Good luck with the system!
If you are in a cold area and the shop isn't heated, use the water pipe heat cord and wrap it aroung the pump for the colder months. Un plug it when you start the pump. plug it back in at night.
This is how I did mine.......based off of Tip Tools setup...Littleman http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
Should you use copper - and I'm not suggesting that you do - do not use thin M grade water pipe. You need at least L grade and it should be brazed / silver soldered - not soft soldered. Littleman is right on with the install info. That's how I did mine with the "T" taps facing up and then used two street ells to get pointed down. Good luck.
I checked out that tptools last night, Great info there. Does anyone have any info on the seperators? Whats a good brand? Is there an real difference between a cheaper on a more expensive one?
lots of good stuff here: http://www.tptools.com/ Eastwood has compressor stuff too I used black pipe for my shop. never a leak or other troubles. that stuff is a ***** to thread without the proper tools. you want your filters away from the compressor as stated. I run a drain right at the tank so I can drain the line, then up 10 feet, across the shop 20 feet then back down to another filter/drain where plug in my rubber hose. for paint I have my paint water oil filter seperator dealy mounted on a little wheeled cart. I don't need the superclean air for most jobs so I leave it unhooked until I need it. I also have a 20 foot paint only hose that goes with it, so I don't use a hose that has had dirty air go through it when I spray.
Thanks guy's! I have a 175 psi 80 gal 5 HP compressor and learned a couple of things here I didn't know, Thank You!
Glad someone else got some help from this too. What does it take to thread the pipe? what kind of special tools are they?
You'll need a good pipe vise and a ratchet threader is gonna be the cheapest. You might be able to rent a power poney if you wanted an electric threader.cheers
Got this and use it myself from a compressor mechanic and proved it works, I have a 4 cyl V4 2 stage 10 HP 120 gal Dayton and I use automatic ****** fluid dextron in my compressor for 2 years now with no problems especially with winter start ups, air tools, sand blasting [ i run out of sand before i run out of air] painting, air jack, everything with in line filters and water drains on the bottom of the tank that I drain after use. No more heating the pump in winter. Try it, you will not be dissapointed!!! 30ND oil is like STP in winter.
Check out HAMB's sister site www.garagejournal.com. They have tons of ideas and answers! I've got an IR 80gal, 5 hp single stage that pumps 18 psi and couldn't be happier with it! I don't have answers to all your questions but here's a couple of tips that might help. First off, ya gotta mount it! The famed hockey puck mounting system. Grab 4 hockey pucks from your local sporting goods store ($3 each). Sink a couple of 3/8" Redheads in the concrete. Hockey pucks, 3" fender washers, compressor, shock bushings (help section @ auto parts), 3/8" flat washers and 3/8" nylock nuts. Rock solid yet gives it appropriate dampening. You can buy the drain extension kit here............. http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA3005/p430.html or make your own. Definitely install an hour meter. Simple to do and cheap. Grainger has 'em. Here's a decent Wilkerson water seperator. Purchased at Grainger. I use a cheap HF pot sandblaster and needed very dry air to run it. I got one of these off of Ebay for $60. I run it upstream of the seperator and the outgoing air is DRY! Hope this helps some!
i have used 10w40 in my matco compressor for about 20 years with no issue. for my drain valve i use a drain valve off of a semi a quick pull on the cord and my tank is drained. the main thing is to change it more than once every 10 years. and keep your tank drained to avoid rusted out tanks that can burst
It's a filter. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clea...Z390109066226QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools I really only use it when blasting. I added an old water seperator I had laying around and made it portable. Now I just hang it on the fence at point of use. Believe me, it works!
We call them "toilet paper" filters, a roll of charmin fits right in after unrolling a little and work great on the cheap! Good clean air for the money...
I have ran a rubber hose from the compressor to wall in the last three shops i have done in the last 10 years, then plumbed all the wall feet in 1/2 pvc and put couplers where ever i might need a hose or real. I have never had any pvc break and i use these shops everyday comercially. These shops are 25x25, 40x50 and 60x100.
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