Hello, This is my first post here, so any help would be great! I'm putting a 327 mated to a turbo 350 into a 57 chevy pickup. The suspension is stock, I have not dropped it at all. What angle should the engine and transmission sit at? I have not welded the new cross member, so there is a little room to lift the back end of the transmission. Additionally, If I bring the engine up to where it's level will the drive shaft angle be a concern? My inclination is the people who built the kit I have, took the above into consideration, but you never want to assume. Thanks in advance, JIM
Sorry, I don't get it. When I set a level on top of the intake manifold it should be level? Or if I press a level against the bottom of the transmission oil pan it should be level? Thanks, JIM
When I put the Nailhead in my "50 chevy I put a level on the carb flange of the intake and built the motor mounts where the carb would be level. The valve covers ended up going uphill from back to front about 3 degrees. This also means that the differential needs to be going uphill the same 3 degrees. The tranny will be tilted the same 3 degreees
I've always used the top of the manifold -- where the carburetor sits -- to level an engine. That should take care of the tranny. You can always change the rear end if the pinion angle needs corrected.
I guess my BIG question is; Does the engine need to be perfectly level? If the front end is a few degrees higher the back will bad things happen? Same for the TH350, the truck originally had a 3 speed manual in it. I don't recall the engine/transmission angle when I pulled them. I just don't want to ruin a great running motor and a freshly rebuilt tranny. Thanks again.
I don't know that the engine and tranny need to be absolutely, perfectly level to function properly but if you're running a carburetor, having it as close to level as you can get it is much better for it. One thing you need to consider is the chassis ride height and attitude. If you put in the engine mounts when the frame isn't where it will run, you're just building in problems. Don't forget that you drive up and down hills all the time and it doesn't damage the engine or transmission. That's why they have oil pumps.
NO the engine needs to be 2-4 degrees slanted... the front of the engine being higher and back of the engine being lower.... so we are talking about an maximum of an inch difference. If you dont have it resting in there at 2-4 degrees oil will not drain to your pan properly causing catastrophic damage in the long run. the tranny is connected with the engine so you dont have a choice on degree... it will be the same as the engine... it has to be. in addition im doing the same conversion with my 59 chevy pickup, but with a 350 and a 700r4... the 700r4 and a 350T long shaft are roughly the same length.. I do know that I had to drop my engine forward and down from what it originally was. I have the aftermarket crossmembers as well.. stock rear end, shortened original driveshaft with a different yolk end w/ correct splines with no issues on angle.. but that is because I dropped it down and forward so the distributor could be slid in and out without having to pull the engine
My Godfather bought a 57 back in 64. It had the orginal 283 with a 3 on the tree. Sometime in the mid 70s, the 283 went out so he got a 327 and bolted the motor right in. People back then knew what they were doing, not so sure about todays people
I seem to recall that the carburetor mounting surface on most manifolds is on a different plane from where the intake runners bolt to the head. That might account for the 2-4 degrees engine tilt. Still, an automotive engine is engineered to run at all sorts of different angles without starving for oil, in normal usage.
If engines were meant to be at an angle of 0 the oil would not be draining into the pan very well. Think about drains in a garage... if your garage floods the drain is the lowest spot on the floor and the floors slant to it. If you look at a head it is slanted and oil would collect more in the valve covers and random places instead of draining back into the pan. you risk starving your pump a lot more than usual, 2-4 degrees is perfect for an engine.
Couple of things, 1959apache: you're assuming the insides of an engine are aligned with the outsides. Not necessarily true. The insides are designed to drain the oil back to the pan. That's why there are all those drain holes in a small block heads and lifter valley. As long as there is the recommended amount of oil in the engine, there is no risk of starving the pump. That's why the sump is built into the pan (and why race pans have baffles.) As I said before, these engines are designed to run a different angles. I've had mine going up and down some pretty steep hills and never starved them for oil, under normal operation. High performance oiling is another matter. If it was me, I'd put it at 0 degrees on the intake and leave it at that.
Welcome to the HAMB you can't go wrong asking for help here. But also did you know theres a site just for trucks like yours? try The 1947-1959 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups message board. Lots of cool stuff and answers there good luck with your truck
The carb pan should be level. I don't recall exactly but I believe that your crank center will be about 7 degrees. In a stock '57 you should have no problems with the angle of the drive shaft.
The Jalopy Journal
