have the carb in front of me noticed that on the secondary side its missing a duel little squirter where a philips head goes has one on the primary side.
If it is a #3310 carb, it never had a squirter in the secondary chamber. It should also have a big vacumn diaphram mounted on one side of the carb.
>>>>>40hemicpe; Therefore ,,it's NOT a double pumper ,,,a double pumper has another accelerater pump on the secondarie side and a 2nd squerter ,,,so ,,it's a dual inlet with vacuum secondaries ,, ,,BUT ,,all that's been said ,,,a 3310 is a Great Carb to have ,,been around since the '60's ,,and perfect for your application ,,i run vacuum secondaries on both my blower 600's ,,great street ability ,,smooth transition from primariy to full throttle ,, just get the bugs outa it and you'll be a happy camper ,,
took the bowls apart and everything was new. blew it out installed in car was running for a minute and stopped? gas is coming from the accelterater pump now. and not flooding out the carb like it did before
your leak may be a loose bowl screw, probably the lower right one. If the engine died it may still be flooding even though no fuel came out the top vents. peace
Exact same problem this weekend.Car sat for 4 months.Removed and cleaned needle.set floats accordingly(as deuceman32 suggests).I have a regulator and a gauge set at about 5 psi.Gas still comes out the vent.More so in the front than the rear.Took off front bowls, spotless.Still a gusher.Any suggestions?
i think i will have to replace the bowl gasket because they were very hard to take off and the only one was leaking after i put it together..
this is something that needs doing on all holley carbs you need to lightly run a fine file evenly across both gasket surfaces on the main body ....sometimes they are uneven from factory over tightening the bowls screws causes it also.... keep the file flat>using a file in this manner is called draw filing all your air/fuel metering depends on a good seal between the metering plate&the center section
Your vacuum secondary 3310-2 750 is a 4160 style Holley that uses a metering plate to control secondary fuel flow. Classic 3310-1 Holley 780 dual feed and all the double pumpers are 4150s. If you are looking to maximize economy in everyday driving, consider converting (or trading) your carburetor to the 4150 style that uses a metering block for the secondaries (looks just like the primary side block). It's far easier to change out metering block jets when tuning as opposed to removing and replacing the entire metering plate, and the smaller jets used with the also changeable power valve in a metering block allow you finer control of the secondary fuel curve than the fixed orifice does anyway.
Hate to prove you wrong, but the 3310-2 750 pictured on page 2 is also considered a 4150. The 4160's are like the R-1850 600 w/vac secondaries and single feed fuel bowls. Read up on it. I'm pretty sure it's all about which style fuel they have.
I don't believe there was anyone ever "forced" to fix Holleys just people who were interested in knowing all they could to make a product perform up to it's potential. Those lazy types that just want something to plug and play will always find an excuse to rag on things they know nothing about and are unwilling to learn. Frank
I agree with Frank - I've been fixing my outfits myself for 40+ years and had to learn all sorts of things...both the hard way and by reading the books. Two things I haven't seen in this thread - might have missed one tho....current mixtures of "pump gas" often make Viton "stick" more than we experienced in the past. Cars and carbs I never had float stability problems with in the past have started acting up in the last couple of years. Put in steel needle and seat assemblies - and life got easier right away. The Holley .130's are cheap and come as a pair - solved the problem right away. The center-hung float system on your carb can easily handle the increase of area at the orfice. Mechanical fuel pumps have a "built-in" regulator - usually suited to the kind of carb(s) they came with originally. Feeding them with an electric at the tank solves a lot of problems with suction line size / plumbing re-do's - and makes use of their internal regulator. It also makes the outfit look pretty "stock"....if you are into "contests of speed"........and would prefer a little stealth.
Needle and seat sound bad. I replace these when they start flooding the carb. I have never run a pressure regulator. As the carbs get older, the needle/seat needs replacement, that is why these parts are in a rebuild kit.
Ditto on the needle and seat, had the same problem, also when you work on these suckers make sure you check all screws/bolts cause if one is loose it'l leak as was stated above.
Thanks for making my point. Having been "forced" to work on Holley's for a good long time back in olden days, I want something dependable that does not have to be tweaked and babied all the time. If that makes me lazy in my old age, then so be it.
Well this thread's going nowhere. Since BOTH front/rear are flooding, I would check fuel pressure before anything else, as I stated earlier
took the carb apart cleaned it up.then adjusted the floats car runs bitchen and the problem went away.thanks everyone
Why would you want to play with a Holly when you can get a Edlebrock put in on and drive with no worries, work smarter rather than dumber
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