I've done a search for tilt front ends and haven't found much. I have a 56 chevy stepside that is slammed. The front sheet metal isn't on yet...but I know from experience getting to the engine to work on it is tough once it is on. The truck will be a mild custom and feel a bit like a push truck. I've seen pictures of one lift off front end on the saltflats...I know there are lots of problems for the tilt. I wondered if someone has done a tasteful all metal lift off or tilt front end that I could see pictures of and get some ideas from? Thanks for any help. - Kyle
If you are determined to go with a tilt front end, do yourself a favor and go check out the last generation 'Vette at a wrecking yard. In my opinion the '84-'90something Vette hood mechanism is very nice. Good mechanics involved, kind of a stealthy design in that it doesn't show as an after thought 'gotta have'. I'm not saying to use the stock components, they may be too lightly built for your application. I'd be taking pictures of everything at different angles of operation. Then make your decision to use the stock stuff or use them as a basis for design. What most guys on here object to is the cut fender look, where the tilt is painfully obvious. If that point of seperation can be hidden by a bodyline, a paintline or at least the attention drawn away from that aspect it is much more palletable. Dan Stevens dba, Steelsmith
It's alot of work sometimes to get things "right" but worth it IMHO. Not a truck, but a tilt nonetheless. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=125160&d=1128479120
Kyle, you need to please yourself not anyone else. What I or any other HAMBer thinks means absolutely nothing. Weigh in the pros and cons on your own and then decide whether or not its worth all the work involved. By the way,not that it matters,I say go for it.
I have done several. I am currently doing one on a Henry J. It slides forward and then tilts. There is a lot work to make one right. The current one uses linear bearing to slide in and out and a cable actuated latch on the cowl behind the wheel in each of the dog legs. In addition it has a plastic bearing material at the top and on each side of the cowl that will allow it to slide back and align the back of the hood area. It has a tubing framework that the gl*** front end attaches to. The fibergl*** front ends are hard to work with as they are a very poor fit at best. I will try to post some pictures later in the week as I progress. They really are nice once you have it done but it is a whole lot of work. John
The cut fender line is my objection to it also. It just can't be hidden and ruins the lines of the car. A lift off would make me happy too. I've got a staggered 4x2 intake on my truck. The thought of laying over the fender adjusting carbs and timing isn't my idea of fun...and I'm not getting younger. Thanks for the ideas.. I'll check out the vette mechanism.
Yes, I'm also curious. My Stude has to pull forward and tilt, and I don't like my current setup.-MIKE
This is the tilt front end I am working on for a Henry J. It is just roughed together as I am still fabricating. You can see the round tube in the front that is attached to the sliding linear bearings and this tube also goes through the lower grille opening of the fibergl*** front end. The tubing has br*** bearings where it rotates. At the rear you see the two latches down low on the cowl. At the top you see two black plastic bearing surfaces. When the front rotates down to close it lays on two guide blocks and then allows it to slide back to the cowl and align there. The fibergl*** front will attach to this frame with slotted tabs that will allow for adjustments to fit the front end to the body. As I get further along I will make two telescoping prop rods that will hold the front end open and two catchs that will hold the slider in the forward position. This to be primarily a steet car. I have made race car fronts much simpler and I used dzuz fasteners. The sliders on race cars are usually a slotted aluminum plate that will allow the round front bar to travel in and out. If you have questions, just ask. John
Well now I know why there are no results for a font tilt clip. I am thinking of doing one on my car. I say go for it I am interested to see how it turns out for you, no matter which way you decide to go. Build it the way you want, and good luck.
Here is the ***embly with the gl*** front mounted to the metal armature. The front end is held in the open position by two gas cylinders that do not have gas in them. It was difficult to find a place to mount these cylinders so that they were in the right position when the front is open but allow them to collaspe enough for the front to close and slide back. I am currently fitting the gl*** front to the cowl. The quality of the front end is very poor. It is like making a Chevy front clip fit a Ford. I have spent most of the last two days with heat lamps reforming the fibergl*** to get it close to the shape it needs to be. Now I will slowly move it back and trim for the correct gap. I can also move the slotted tabs that attach the front to the metal structure to raise and lower the fibergl*** to get a good match. In the end there will be fibergl*** and bondo work to do but it should be close. John
The easiest car I ever had to work on was my Triumph Spitfire in the 60's. Chrome side-latches and the whole front end lifted up. Then it was easy to work on the toaster oven that ran the thing. OT, but I sure miss that little car. Not sure how a truck would look, but build it the way you want!
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