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26 Sedan Build on the edge of starting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wheelbilly, May 4, 2009.

  1. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    I've got it just about stripped down enough to start boxing the frame. I need to find a buyer for the engine/trans and then I'll do that. I just sold the Ruckstell rear end, that's funding the purchase of a front end.
    First the plan is to pull the body and box the frame, then when the front axle shows up I'll mock that and the 8" rear up and then place the engine. I've got two 24 stud flatheads, one in pieces for a long term buildup, the other pulled from a running Mercury. Will be looking for a T5 to go behind them. Plan is to build an aluminum tank to replace the stock piece, build my own seats, side exit headers with cutouts, standard big and little Firestones on steelies. Hope to get it together enough to drive to my brother in laws wedding in July. This is my first rod, but not my first build. Just sold a full tube rock buggy and used to wrench on and build som relatively quick, 10-12 sec, all motor and turbo fwd cars.

    Not much to look at right now, but the body is straight and ready for cutting. 4" ought to do it, but I'm impatiently waiting until everything else is done until I cut, to make sure I fit (6'2")
    [​IMG]

    It ought to look similar to this when finished, grabbed off the Choppers episode of Hot Rod TV. Debating between navy blue and silver paint, and the interior will be a deep red.
    [​IMG]

    Picked mine up from a friend who did some pest control/resto work for a widow whose bill got a little too large. It sat in a garage a mile away from me for nearly 30 years. Last receipts on the parts that came with it are dated in 83, just after I was born.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  2. T-Time
    Joined: Jan 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,627

    T-Time
    Member
    from USA

    You're bound to get a bunch of "advise" to ditch the T frame and use some other frame as the T frame is way too weak to be of any use. Don't listen.
     
  3. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Personally I wouldn't mind building my own, but I don't want to hassle with vin numbers and registration, being in California. I don't suppose I'll keep this one forever either so I want to make that aspect as easy as possible. I'm not going any bigger then a naturally aspirated flathead either, so I'll stick with the stock frame and box/brace it.
     
  4. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

    Hey "Chef." ;) Keep it up!
     
  5. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,288

    Bull
    Member

  6. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Thanks Bull ;) Good build thread to look through there.
     
  7. Flying Tiger
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 478

    Flying Tiger
    Member
    from Japan

    Looking good. Keep up the great work.
     
  8. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    This is my first hot rod build, so some of this stuff will be pretty basic for a lot of you, and some will be downright silly, but feel free to pipe up if you've got a better way of doing things. I learned through trial and error and looking at what others had done to theirs when I was building my rock buggy. That was a long term deal, after each trip I'd end up changing something. This, I just want to get on the road and enjoy, then strip it down and 'finish' it over the (socal) "winter". My brother in law is getting married in July, and I'd like to drive this up there.

    Today I got to really get started on the buildup. Up until this point everything had been dismantling the stock parts. I grabbed some last minute adapters to finish my plumbing job...
    [​IMG]
    I purchased the copper pipe a few years ago, I finally assembled it a few weeks ago, and finally installed it last night. Also replaced the busted drain valve on the tank, releasing about a gallon of water in the process :O Important to drain those tanks. Originally the pipe was going to go all over the garage, but I got over that and just wanted dryer air.

    I've been trying to preserve as much of the car as possible when removing it, even if it's a pain in the ass, because someone, somewhere will be able to use whatever it is I'm pulling off. Today it was a relatively straight front crossmember. I grinded off a few rivets, plasma torched out the hard to reach ones, and then air chiseled and punched the rest of it off. I had previously reinforced the frame up front to keep the rails from flexing apart when I released the crossmember. I originally had planned on using a piece of 3" black pipe that was laying around the shop for the new crossmember, but ended up using a piece of 2" DOM that had a slight bend in it that was a leftover from one of the rollcages I had built for my Jeep. This worked out well, adding a bit of the look of a 32-34 Ford front crossbar.
    [​IMG]

    I'm worried that i should have put it on upside down to lower the car more since it's not all that much higher then the stock crossmember, but I'll wait until I get the engine mounted and the spring compresses. Standing on the frame didn't do a whole helluva lot. It is a dropped axle though. See how I'm getting ahead of myself?
    [​IMG]

    The tire in this picture is sitting on a section of 4x4 so that it's positioned vertically about where it will be if it was actually mounted. The hubs and brakes will be here next week, and the wheels will be shipping Monday. They're red Mercury 15's from the late 40's/early 50's. They've got chrome trim rings and hub caps. The white walls weren't in the plan originally, but I got a great deal from a local off the boad. A buddy has sourced some cheater slicks I'm going to run that just happen to be white walls, so it all works out. But yeah, wheels won't ship until Tuesday or Wednesday, so it'll be the middle of the first week of June when I can get tires mounted. I'm going to try to have everything solid by then so that it can be a roller.

    I'm going to be running coilovers in the back for ride comfort, and ease of mounting. I was going to build my own radius rods for the front, but after sourcing all the parts and realizing it was going to take me half a day to get everything I just bought a kit from the local rod shop. Each component would have had to come from a different place, jam nut, rod end, tube, threaded insert, johhny joint, eff that. The kit I got is nice and will do fine. I'm realizing that on my short time table along with the fact that this is the first time I've built, let alone worked, on a car like this, buying stuff rather then building it isn't a terrible idea. I'll save my 100% ME car for a second or third one down the road after I get some experience. I'lls till have enough work in this to call it mine.
    [​IMG]

    This is the temporary engine, a 1950 Ford flathead v8. It's name is Carl. It will run for a year or so until I can build the other flathead sitting in the corner. It will get all the bells and whistles and machine work. Carl is going to borrow the Offy heads and intake until then.
    [​IMG]

    Today the plan is to box the front of the frame, scrape all the shit off the transmission and bolt it back onto the engine, hang it over the frame and fabricate some engine mounts, put weight on the front axle, and then install the frame side mounts for the radius rods. I bought Carl with a 3 speed and a Ford 8". I was going to run a T5 but a Hurst floor shifter popped up in the for sale section yesterday so I'm going to run that and see how it runs. The 8" has 2.X gears, ought to be alright for what I plan on doing...driving.

    If I can manage to get all of that done today, that'll be awesome, haha.
     
  9. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Took awhile longer then I expected, but the frame is finally fully boxed. Stretched it 7" to fit the engine a little better.

    [​IMG]
    Cleaned up the temporary engine a little. Cleaned a few pounds of crap off the transmission too. Original 3 speed from a '50 Ford I think. Been trying to find info on it, but not having a lot of luck. Bought a Hurst floor shifter from the classifieds for it. Found some wiring diagrams for the overdrive, but need to figure out if it's been voncerted to 12v operation or if I should use a resistor to knock down the power, or hunt down 12v parts for the overdrive.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    My high tech frame stretch system.

    [​IMG]
    Stretched 7". 24" of 1x2 box tube welded inside, then boxed from before and beyond that area with a single piece of 1/4" plate. 3/16" everywhere else. Probably overkill, but it's a dinky frame and my first build so I'm comfortable with this. Spliced a few pieces together to get the proper corners and the slight radius on the vertical face of the frame so you really can't tell it was stretched.

    [​IMG]
    Built the motor mounts today. They stumped me for awhile. I think these are truck pumps right? Two bolts screw into the pump, rather then the cast tab sticking off the pump...

    [​IMG]
    Due to the height, I'll need to run an electric fan, which is ok by me. May have to run an electric fuel pump, without having the radiator it's a gamble placing the motor mounts. Recess the firewall for the mechanical fuel pump, or run an electric. Time, vs money.

    Tomorrow I should be able to mount the transmission and get some weight on the front axle and mount the radius rods. Coilovers should be showing up early next week so I can start working on the rear. Wheels come in Monday too, gotta go pick up the rear tires sometime next week.
     
  10. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Snapped this shot yesterday at one of the local steel yards. Didn't get any specs or pricing, but it's cool, gotta figure out where to use some.
    [​IMG]

    Any thoughts on the angle of the radius rods? Too steep if I mount them to the frame?
    [​IMG]

    Used some rubber stoppers for bushings on the transmission mount, though it's only temporary until I figure out the pedals situation and can build some crossmembers
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Midwest Rodder
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,768

    Midwest Rodder
    Member

    Looking good, nice job.
     
  12. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Had enough people tell me I should lower it that I caved to peer pressure

    [​IMG]

    Got the wheels from a forum member via UPS today, thanks Lionheart! They're Merc wheels and look great. Paint around the lip is scuffed, I assume from a tire machine, so I was thinking of repainting them but they're fine for now. That's more time that can be better spent getting this thing running.
    [​IMG]

    Coilovers came in today too. Club meeting tomorrow night, then Wednesday I can start mounting the rear axle and coilovers, make a roller out of this thing.
     
  13. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,102

    PoPo
    Member

    I like it, and cause its not like everyone elses!!! Great build man. A true one man show it seems like.

    I have never seen this before and got the idea to check it out form Baleighs inspiration thread.

    Not sure why more haven't commented, nice start to a cool Rod
     
  14. Keep it going, I am really interested in your build up. It's looking good. It's giving me the inspiration to push on with mine.
     
  15. a.y1320
    Joined: Feb 3, 2008
    Posts: 117

    a.y1320
    Member

    I really like the look your going for, keep us posted
     
  16. oldspwr
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 265

    oldspwr
    Member

    Great build pics! My next project will be a 26/27 sedan, so I am looking forward to more progress pics!!!

    Tom
     
  17. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm having fun with this, building a hot rod is something I've wanted to do since I was a kid, just got sidetracked for a few years/projects. I'm trying to figure out how to keep the rear seat there, and fit the fuel tank, master cylinder, and steering box in the cowl area. I think I'll do the mopar box and I've visualized how I'll build a frame to hold it, I need to make a trip to the junkyard for a 90 degree master cylinder or worst case get a $250 adapter from a local shop. The T-85 or 86, whatever came with the engine, all the linkage is in the way of putting a master below the floor. The gas tank is my biggest concern. I don't want to put it in the back, primarily because I'd have to cut into the body for a filler door. I kind of like the location of the stock tank, but don't want to have to pull over to fill up every 40 miles, so we'll see.

    Got the rear tires from a friend, so total spent on tires so far is less then I spent on the wheels. They're a little shorter then I had planned on getting but I'll live with 'em for awhile. Didn't plan on whitewalls either... It's sitting about where it'll sit when it's built, maybe a little lower in the back. Had planned for the tires to go to the top of the fender slot originally, and it wouldn't require much/any cutting of the floor, will see what happens when I get going on it.

    Went to the Pomona swapmeet today and picked up some interesting headlights, no pics yet. Trying to figure out what to do for turn signals. Came home and painted the scallops. Was going to retape to outline them but a friend offered to stripe them, so gloss red it is. Color scheme came direct from the wife. Engine is going to get repainted now too. Made some mounts for the hairpins that attach to the bottom of the frame, will have to get some pics of those, they came out pretty nice. Then started on the headers. The drivers side is tacked together pretty well. Stoked I remembered to cut a hole in the cone for each runner!

    I really, really, really want to chop it, but I've gotta wait until I get some sort of seat in there. Might work on the floor and seat this week as I'm not looking forward to the rear suspension much.



    [​IMG]
     
  18. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Got a good side shot of the headers
    [​IMG]

    and the headlights
    [​IMG]
     
  19. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,102

    PoPo
    Member

    nice stuff man! still watching, Its not such a bad deal to cut a hole in the body for the gas filler, some of the more Bad A$$ cars have it done that way. I can understand but as long as its done right, its classy
     
  20. doctorZ
    Joined: Apr 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,271

    doctorZ
    Member

    i LOVE the tall T sedans. DON'T CHOP IT!! it looks bitchin' tall, especially with that ride height.
     
  21. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,226

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Looks like your car is going to be awesome.

    I chopped mine 7" and I have a couple buddies that are 6'3" and can drive it fine. The only thing I would do different for my tall friends is mount the steering wheel up a little bit higher. Just make sure you chop the header panel so you can still see out the windshield.

    Check out my album for the build pics if you'd like. If you have any questions, I'm happy to help any way I can.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. I must agree, I think tall T's look great unchopped, don't do it. I will keep my 27 as it came out of the factory. It's looking real good.
     
  23. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Inkorekt, do you have any shots of the interior after you got some seats and stuff inside? curious to see the second row area too. I came across your build before and liked it. Proposed to color to my wife, we both have other cars that color and my mountain bike is the same, almost bought a triumph tiger that blue recently, i was tempted to add to the fleet. I'm going to leave it this color for awhile, "Ford Granite Grey". Got a can with a little bit of the lacquer left so I can touch up the areas where I chop it. Sorry guys, don't think I can leave it tall for too long, though it will be for a little while once I get it going.
     
  24. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Had to get out of town for work and knew I wasn't going to make my hopeful July deadline, then it was too hot to work on it, then my wife had a MRSA infection so I didn't work on it in fear of getting scratches that could get infected....so here I am, finally working on it again. I managed to get the front suspension all painted up and ready to go. i need to pull the engine, strip the red, repaint, install the Cornhusker adapter and the T5, then get the front end put back together. I've ordered a 65 msutang radiator from a guy on ebay, he did some custom touches adding the extra ports for the flathead. It should be here early next week. Cost me about $250 shipped, much better then any of the other options I had seen, and from talking to the guy, seems to be a high quality unit and he at least sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Once that comes in, I can get the engine placed and burn in the mounts.

    Had some time this past weekend to work on the rear suspension. I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. I need to extend the frame out for the panhard bar and bumper mounts. Once I do that I can finish the coilover mounts and build the crossmember.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The rear seems to be sitting about the right height, at least where I want it. The front is on jackstands in the picture, but I have a feeling after preliminary fittings that I'll need to redo the front spring hanger to get it a little lower to match the front.

    So...plan now is to do the above engine paint/front suspension, then build a gas tank and start working on the interior.
     
  25. Hellvedere Steve
    Joined: Oct 2, 2009
    Posts: 60

    Hellvedere Steve
    Member
    from Coalfield

    Very nice, that will be bitchin when its done!! I am building sort of 60's drag car style 26/27 coupe right now. Still getting the frame set up. Keep posting the pics, I will post some pics soon. Mine is gonna have all mopar running gear. 383/727 w/ 8 3/4 rearend. It should haul ass.
    Go T-Baggers!!
     
  26. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Thanks man. Appreciate the comments, adds motivation.

    Here's a shot of the axle during paint
    [​IMG]
     
  27. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    I've been looking at the thing real hard and making lots of lists, but not getting a lot of work done. I've dirked around with the front end a little and gotten it sitting on its own for the most part, but im not really thrilled with the way the front has turned out. Add in the problems im facing with the narrow T frame and im getting pretty frustrated. After doing some searching and reading tonight I've decided to sweep the front, then spread the frame at the firewall, and pinch it back so the sides are parallel right behind the front seat. This will give me room for frame mounted pedals and keep the starter from hitting the frame.*

    I've been using the fabricators new best friend to sketch and organize my thoughts, the ipad :D
    [​IMG]

    The following shots show where i plan to pie cut and move things around One of the goals is to move the axle behind the radiator. What i expect to happen with the sweep is that I'll be able to mount the spring closer to the bottom of the frame, keep ride height about where it's at and allow for a tie rod to be mounted. I intend to sweep it up 5" and move the pie cut tape marks back 5". I can then move the frame forward 5" while keeping the engine where it's at. I'm expecting to leave the radiator at its existing height, but shorten the shell so it fits with the sweep.*

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thats about all ive got for now. Ive done some small stuff on it but nothing major worth posting about. I picked up a set of model a split bones to replace the hairpins with, and I'll make a new set for the rear inspire by some i saw on the site recently. Was never happy with the ones i built once i finished them up. I'll also be cutting the taped off area out of the firewall to make more room for the engine since its set back a little.*

    Need to quit redoing things and get to work on the cowl framework for the steering...but resetting the frame will be a key task to complete before that

    If anyone sees anything wrong with my plan, please fill me in
     
  28. glockkf
    Joined: Jul 10, 2007
    Posts: 52

    glockkf
    Member
    from st louis

    looking good. great pics
     
  29. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    Anyone have any thoughts on the last post? Does it sound realistic? Am I way off base? Bueller? These are the measurement notes I intend to use (and expand on before cutting)

    [​IMG]
     
  30. wheelbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    wheelbilly
    Member

    I've finished up the frame mods, notched for the sweep up front,
    [​IMG]

    spread apart just behind the engine mounts, then pinched back at the B pillar
    [​IMG]

    This is before pinching it back parallel at the b pillars, but shows how it follows the lines of the body a little better, and leaves a lot more room inside of the frame for gear
    [​IMG]

    Started working on the X or K or whatever it'll end up being member. Started with 2x3" .120", tapered down to 2" tall, 1x2 thinner wall in the center, and now trying to figure out how to finish it all off
    [​IMG]

    It's SOOOO tough to get a good shot of the car that shows how fantastic it looks. Finally, I'm really starting to be pleased and have a positive outlook on the progress and the direction the build is headed. I don't quite feel unsure about the work I've done or feel like I need to go back and redo something. The front end looks a little awkward without the radiator, the frame went up 5" in the front and I moved the axle underneath the frame, I used a spring mount I'd already made but need to make yet another that will raise the mount a little more, 1-1.5" or so. That should settle the front a little, and I need to figure out how many leafs to leave in the spring pack. Swapped out the water pumps for a set with the cast mount tabs on them, then chopped down the mounts I'd built to get the engine to sit a bit lower. It's nice and near level now, with a one degree tilt back. The mounts will be pretty trick when they're all finished up, integrated into the frame since it's fairly narrow.

    [​IMG]

    Present tasks at hand include lopping off the very tail of the existing frame, then mounting the axle to the chassis with parts I've already fabricated but may replace again later on, build the rear crossmember to attach the coilovers to, and finish up the center X member. After that I'll have a solid rolling chassis and can start working on getting all of the goods in the cowl.
     

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