So in my vic, i have a 283 chevy, just changed out the powerglide for a t350. But it leaked oil...bad. So me and my ****** friend changed the rear main seal, changed the oil pan gasket put it all back together and still, have the oil leak. Its coming from the top of the engine, would it be my intake manifold?? im thinking about redoing that with new gaskets and gasket go. Just thought i would ask on here first before i started that project. Any advise will help. Thanks ~~Luke
Before you change the intake, clean with Gunk or carb cleaner and change the valve cover gaskets and make sure the flanges are clean and flat. See if that works first then you can try the intake. Pat
mac- that makes me think, i tightened it up about a week ago, it was a little loose, but i checked it now and it is still tight, but it is wet around there..thats what made me think it might have been the intake. 34- I changed my valve cover gaskets already and its still nice and dry in the front of the block but it is hard to see th eback of the block, ill try and get a better look after i type all this. 61- Yes i have one hooked up, i just have it running down tho, but that is not where the oil is coming from, it is running down the back of the block.
Just run your hand behind the back china wall and see if it's soaking wet..... Or.. If you don't want to get your hands dirty, use a telescopic mirror!
Sorry....that's just what it read as I have the exact same setup in my 50 Chevy.....had a similar problem. The issue was that the new oil pan gasket was too thin for the front, so somehow it was burping oil all over the damn place. The listed OEM seal along with a new OEM oil pan just didn't do the job. Never did find out where I could get one that worked, so I ended up reusing the front part of the seal again, problem solved. I could also tell you about how I forgot to plug the hole for the oil pressure gauge on the back of the engine when I fired it up for the first time.....next thing you know, ol Jed's a millionaire! Perhaps it's not sealed well around there and the compression is pushing it out? Just shots in the dark, my friend....good luck!
well it sooo close to the fire wall, i have the engine mounted from the front and it is hard to get my hand back there!!
thanks ross, well the new pan gasket is pretty thick and im using the old original pan, ill take a look, thanks for the advise!! and what are you doing with pictures of my gf??!!! lol
i cut my teeth on sbc . ill bet its the back cork (rubber) gasket . wash it good & watch it with a lite ................. i always "staked" my blocks so as to hold a gasket or just use a large bead of black silicone (no gasket) . all work . just need a lil luck ............ steve
Steve- so dont even use the rubber seal?? yeah i was worried about that seal moving when i put it in, it looked a little iffy. But you think i could just not use the seal and use a bunch of that black silicone?
Once you try the silicone bead on the back seal surface you'll NEVER use a gasket back there again. Just make sure when you put the manifold in place you set it straight down in the proper front/back position. If you have to move it back and forth to line up the holes you run the risk of knocking down the bead enough to fail making a seal. Frank
most people i know have gone to a silicone bead with no gasket . from mom's car to 410" sprint cars . it has to be totally clean !!!!! i use brake clean . if you dont like that idea .... stake the block & manifold on both ends , use gaskets provided , be sure to silicone the corners . i put a very thin coat on my ends & water ports . if very careful youll do fine . you can stake it even without gaskeyts to give it more grip ........................... steve
thanks ross. Alright you guys talked me into it, what do i have to loose right?? im gonna redo the oil line first, and see if that helps it first, then try the silicone. Ill pick up some "right stuff" 2maro on my way home. Ill ley you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the help!!! ~~Luke
So what was the problem? Did you fix it? Are you running a mechanical oil gauge with a plastic line? You can buy a braided steel line for about $20 out of Speedway. Cheap insurance. You can fry a motor quick when you get a hole in the line on a mech oil pressure gauge.
What Steve say's is correct, and does work . Most people do not know that are many kinds of silicone gasket making material. SOME ARE JUST GASKET MAKING, AND other's are an adhesive style gasket silicone. Below never fails when used as designed! http://www.permatex.com/do***ents/tds/Automotive/82194.pdf
Mac- i havent gotten it fixed yet, there arent any holes in the line, and no it isnt plastic, its like a copper line, and it is really tight, i havent taken it off or anything, i have a feeling it is the intake, but i didnt know oil was flowing right in the back of it? when i had the intake off i didnt see any lines or what not, where would the oil be coming from if it was the intake?? but i have a feeling it is the intake.
Alright finally, i have it fixed. It was the back of the intake manifold. Took it off, cleaned it real well, then just used silicone in the back without the old rubber gasket. Hope she doesnt start leaking!!! but just thought id let you guys know. thanks for your advise!!!
Looks like you've got it fixed. If you're not running a breather, you might have too much + pressure, leading to more oil leaks.
I have a 283 in my '51 chevy and my pcv is plumbed in the the rear of the carburetor. This is were is was on the original 2 barrow carburetor. I just put it on the new edelbrock carburetor.
ohhh i see, yeah that is how it was setup before, then i did the same as you and put in an edelbrock 4 barrel. the guy at my auto parts store said to just run it down and it should be fine. but would having it go to pcv be better?
I have this on my 283. Bolts on to the road draft mount and goes into the air cleaner base. Also have the original road draft tube but it looks like it's missing the mount part. Scotty.
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