265 oiling question / high RPM lifter noise

I'm not pissed off. Just trying to insure you don't waste your time chasing ghosts. I was just sharing what my machinist thought. But, it did sound more "logical" than some others. Did you go bigger in the direction of the holes? Did you start in the right spot to begin with by comparison to an OG cam?

 

Exactly. I made a template from one of my originals and then went just a tad bigger in all directions to be safe.

I have seen some debate on other forums over the past couple of years about subtle differances in design on tri five lifters and later lifters but no sure answer. I just used your everyday sbc Sealed Power HT-817 lifters

 

Well, at this point...2 things
1-I'm still curious if it IS lifters you're hearing
2-please share what it is when you find out

 

****,
I'm running a solid lifter '56 265. I have 57 up lifters in it and it pumps a lot of oil up top.cam is a stock '55 solid lifter cam w/notch.
I have a lot of old references on parts for chevs.I think the 265 blocks used a different lifter than 57 up engines. I will dig into the books and report anything concrete found on 265 vs later lifters.
My mouse,265, will buzz at least 7000 on a good day when the ignition is happy.
Later,glider.

 

I'm gonna guess, if the lifters are wrong, it'll have it's probs at any RPM....and prolly more so at idle

 

Well guys, I was waaaay to tired to open up the shop when I got home from work tonight. I'm gonna cook up some deer chili, drink a ******* beer and sleep on it. I'll tear into it tomorrow and let y'all know what happens. Thanks guys! Especially you Groucho, thanks for sticking with me!

 

I wonder if that's a solid lifter camshaft in that motor?? If so, you can't use hydraulic lifters on it. Also check the inside of the valve covers for s****e marks from the rockers hitting.

 

No, it's all new hydraulic comp, stamped rockers on fresh power packs with factory valve covers.






Chili's almost ready!

 

Ok.. It was a wild guess.. Sorry

 

I tore into it today and everything looked great. Everything. I was out of ideas and things to inspect so I went ahead and cut a full groove in the cam. It's more like two notches due to the two oil holes that go through the rear journal. I put maybe 5 mile on it and then a ****** cool hose blew. It seemed great so far. No noises at all. I'll fix up the hose tomorrow and put it to the test.

 

I'd like to see a pic of what you did. Tell me you do***ented it. I wouldn't have had the patience to wait til tomorrow. No sleep for me if I did

 

Theres a faster and easy way to do this. Just slot the rear cam bearing between the two oil holes. There was a long thread about just a while back. Edit-as for what my last line said, i just read the whole thread and reply #17 to this thread is what i was making referance to.

 

I am pretty sure the early dist have to be in a certain position to oil the top end correctlly.

 

I didn't! I never really take pics when working on stuff. ****** fluid was EVERYWHERE and all the part's stores were closed. I'm going outside right now...

I know but when you JUST got done building the damn thing saving yourself a complete teardown is a big deal!

 

I basically ground a second notch on the other side, it's pretty simple.

 

**** been there done that so no hard feelings. Just brought it up cause Groucho wanted pics. and the past thread thats #17 on here could help out if it was missed.

 

So, is it FIXED?

 

Almost. There's a 3-4 mile loop around town that i've been testing on. It's pretty much gone in that short burst but still a bit of noise. The bad part is that I drove it to my buddy's place (ThunderBeast on the HAMB) to let him hear it, about a 15 minute trip, and when I got to his place it was tapping like crazy and pretty much missing out on a cylinder. He had me crank it up, heard something tapping under the DS cover and had me drive it a bit farther up his driveway to his shop to pull the cover. By the time I got there (maybe 100 yards) it stopped! Anyway, we pulled the cover and cranked it up. He took a flathead screwdriver and started pressing on the rockers on the pushrod side, HARD. They would tap for a second and then pump back up. When he got to the #1 rockers the intake valve took over a minute to pump back up and the exhaust was a bit slow. These are new lifters. Since these are the last two lifters on the oil p***age I think that maybe there may be some blockage somewhere. This thing was a sludge monster before I cleaned it up. But ThunderBeast thinks maybe a lifter or two is bad or may be full of some **** that may be breaking away in the p***ages. I MAY tear into it one more time this week but I'll be damned if I miss cruising it to the RoundUp, so I may wait until after. This is wearing me out. I love a good challenge but this isn't even fun anymore.

 

Since the hot tank process ain't what it used to be, and you say it had a lot of sludge, did you acid dip the block when you went through it? Just curious

 

dump a couple of quarts of cheap ****** fluid in the engine and run it for a few minutes until at operating temp. Drain the oil and refill with fresh, change filter too. ****** fluid works miracles with sludged engines and oil p***ages.

 

No but I ran about 5 cans of oven cleaner through it followed by a thorough pressure wash. This all started as a temporary motor that turned into much more.

 

Go get an engine flush or some kerosene and let that wash out all the oil p***ages, give it an oil change and bump that by-p*** up. I'll buy you burger if it keeps on after that.

 

Did you rifle brush the oil p***ages?

 

I'm not putting money on it YET... but I ran a quart of ****** fluid for about 30 min with a few revs here and there and then changed the oil with VR1 50w. I THINK it's fixed. I cruised it for a while tonight and not a single noise. Stepping up the weight helped the oil pressure out a bit. If the weather is nice I'll drive it to work tomorrow and put it to the real test. I hope this is it. I feel lucky, and kinda stupid for not trying this earlier.

I still find the symptoms weird. It only made noise when at temp and after long highway runs, but bad enough to kill a cylinder. Hmmm.......

 

OK, so the extra notch did NOT fix it? Also, if you think the extra detergent of the ATF helped, I run that stuff for at least 100 miles for it to do it's job, not just a few minutes.

 

I'm not gonna call it fixed until I take a LONG trip in it.

The extra notch made a difference but didn't fix it.

Replace a quart with ****** fluid or a smaller amount?

 

A quart is a good start. These things will practically run on water, so don't sweat it too much. Just don't beat on it until you get a frsh oil change back in it.

Have you cut open a filter since you broke it in?

 

I cut it open last night and it didn't look too bad. No metal just a couple specs of silicone and some traces of hardened sludge but nothing like what I expected.

 

Just add a quart of ATF, it's not gonna hurt anything. You don't have to bother draining a quart of oil first. Oh, and I only use Valvoline 20/50 Racing Oil when time to change oil. I'm sure by now you know about the lack Zinc with most oils?

 

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