I need a battery for my Econoline. I stuffed a carbbed 302 into. Other than the basic electrical stuff (i.e., headlights, etc), it has an electric fan, electric fuel pump, Ford 3g alternator, maybe eventually an amp for a radio/MP3 player, and that's about it. How do I figure out what battery I need? Case size won't matter much, so I need to concentrate on CCA I guess.
If dimensions not an issue, go big or go home. Get the most CCA's you can. Not all battery series are the same across brands either. I researched this some and for instance a Group 24/24F battery from WalMart was a bit lower than a Duralast from AZ. I was surprised how much they differed by brand. It seemed like AZ consistently had higher CCA's than others of the same Group size. Check your own research though. With that alternator, you won't have any issues. Battery is just there for starting anyway if you are using an alternator.
Find what went into a big-block Econoline and get that. If it will crank that engine, it will crank your 302. Once you have that as a baseline CCA rating, then look at other batteries with similar ratings and shop on price. You can often find one that is only 10 or 20 CCA different that is a lot cheaper if you are flexible on size and post configuration just because it fits a higher volume application than the unit for the E350 with a 460 CID. Here is a file that has battery dimensions by BCI group number. http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/***ets/base/0379.pdf There are a lot more BCI numbers than that, so if nothing there would work, don't give up. If you can afford it, the newer batteries like the AGM units listed above, are better. It isn't just smoke and mirrors like the old batteries where the only things different were the price and the length of the warranty. FWIW, the Deka OE replacement for the aforementioned 460CID E350 is a group 64 with 630 CCA.
Joe, remember a battery is basically just to start the van, the alternator runs all of the stuff once its running. I'd figure out what space you have available... then figure out cable routing... will you need top post or side post??? Then get the one with the best warranty and highest cranking amps.
you want battery power and long lasting. get a blue top battery/ marine battery they will last a long time and if they go dead they will take full charge with no problem
here is my $0.02. Having been through many formal battery trainings put on by the large manufacturers I can tell you a few things. The CCA is the most important number. This is the real power of the battery. A higher CCA means the battery can put out a higher momentary amount of power. With an automotive application you have a few choices. A traditional Lead Acid battery, a Lead Acid Absorbed Gl*** Mat (AGM) gel type battery, or a Spiral Core Absorbed Gl*** Mat (AGM) gel type battery. The cost go up with each type. The spiral core is the best because it uses a lead sheet that is tightly wrapped into a can shape and it is filled with a gel that conducts the electricity. These type batteries do not leak. I have seen them cut in half and you might get a tables**** of acidic gel that leaks and that is it. Another benefit is that the the spiral core batteries do not have the problem of the lead plates that can easily calcify (or build up a crust of calcium on the lead) which is very common after an accident or if the battery sits for long periods of time. One last thing to consider is the year rating of the battery. For example you can buy a 700 CCA battery in a 24mo, 48mo, 60mo, etc. These are all the same exact battery. All you are buying is a warranty. They ***ume they will replace 5% of all 24month batteries they sell, and 40-45% of all 48 month batteries, etc. So all you are paying for is a warranty. Another note is that batteries sitting on a shelf have to be charged every 6 months or they will lose a major amount of life, and since many of these come via boat from overseas, be sure you buy from a store that has a high turnover of inventory so you do not buy a battery that has been sitting for long. Look for the best CCA battery from a known manufacturer (most auto batteries are made in Mexico, Taiwan or China. The American made batteries tend to be more expensive. And a final note. Try to insulate the battery from heat. A battery loses a huge amount of life when subjected to any temperatures outside of 77 degrees F. This is the ideal temp for a lead acid battery. every 10 degrees F increase in temp will shorten the life of the battery by up to six months. That is why trunk mounted batteries last up to twice the life of an engine compartment battery, and it is why so many luxury cars mount the batteries in the interior under the rear seat.
Thanks! So what kind of CCA should I be looking for? Awhile ago I looked up the battery for a 89 Lincoln (what the motor came from). I don't remember the CCA, but I remember the battery was expensive and I figured I didn't needed nearly that big of a battery for what I was using it for.
24 series is prob most common and cheapest with a high cca. 58 series (prob what the Lincoln used) is just a squattier battery
The minimum CCA that you want is based on your application and use. Seeing as you are from Chicago, and the batteries loose power below 77 degrees you have to size for that. If it was me, in a snowy climate, with a V8 I would go for a minimum of 800CCA and I would probably look for an 850 or 900. I do not agree that a marine battery is worth the money in a car. Marine and RV batteries are designed to be Deep Cycle. What that means is they will feed other loads beyond starting the engine and are designed for a moderate load over a long time. A car battery is designed for a high load in a very short amount of time. Save your money and buy a higher end auto battery.
Duralast batteries from Autozone got the Consumer Reports 'Best Buy' or for a Gel battery go Odyssey - stay away from Optima - used to be okay but now are Hecho in Elsewhere.
NAPA!! I have a 60-month NAPA battery in my '53 Chevy that is 9 years old (108 months, for those counting), has NEVER gone dead (even after sitting for weeks and weeks), gets boiling heat in the summer in my overheated engine compartment, and I run power windows, A/C, etc. with a standard 63-amp GM alternator. Oh yeah, and it sat on my concrete garage floor for months (when it was already 4 or 5 years old) when I was building my car. Meanwhile the gold DieHard in my '85 Chevy pickup goes dead if it sits for more than a couple weeks. I will buy NAPA car batteries until they stop making them or I die. I know you weren't asking for a brand recommendation, but since others piped in...
This is the kind of threads the HAMB is for. No theatrics, no BS. Thanks to all for saving me money and greif!
Hello, I noticed your conversation and wanted to offer some ***istance. If you are driving your vehicle in cold weather, CCAs are important. If you live in a warmer climate or don't drive your vehicle in cold temperatures, CCA is less of a concern, but the battery you select should offer the same or more cold cranking amps than the OEM battery for that engine. Reserve capacity could also be a consideration, if you plan on running significant aftermarket accessories (like a large stereo). Our D27 & D34 YellowTops are identical internally to our D27M & D34M BlueTops, but the BlueTops do offer additional threaded top posts for marine applications. Either battery in an appropriate size will offer plenty of cranking power, while offering additional reserve capacity, when compared to a SLI (starting/lighting/ignition) battery, as well as the ability to be deep-cycled. It will not harm your vehicle or electrical system to run either of these batteries, but if your electrical needs are relatively-minimal, a SLI battery should be just fine. All of our batteries are Spiralcell, AGM-style lead-acid batteries and do not contain gel. This is important, because chargers with "gel" or "gel/AGM" settings can damage non-gel batteries. sobastrace is also correct about protecting your battery from extreme temperatures (both hot and cold). If you are storing a battery for an extended period of time, it's best to keep it fully-charged in a cool, dry place. The whole concrete floor/wooden board thing is a myth, unless your battery pre-dates WWII. The key to long battery life is making sure the voltage in your battery never drops below 12.4 volts. Use of a battery tender/maintainer on vehicles that are not daily-driven will also help extend battery life, regardless of brand. If you have any other battery-related questions, I'll do my best to answer them. Jim McIlvaine eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc. www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
Hey Optima Jim before you get too ripped on, you might want to do an introduction required of new members http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18 just forewarning ..............
...aaaand read the various Optima battery threads on the H.A.M.B., so, if nothing else, you understand the general dubious opinion found here of both the Optima battery brand and Johnson Controls.
The box is big enough to fit a fairly large battery, so that's not much of a concern. I don't want to pay for a bigger battery than I need, or something like a gel battery for a relatively utilitarian "work" truck. I'll look up the CCA for the Lincoln again, but I'm sure it's pretty high, hence the price
Hello guys and thank you for both the welcome and warning. I did throw a post up in the recommended section and having actively lurked on this board since 2005, I am familiar with the feeling some folks have about Optima. If anyone does have battery-related questions, I'll do my best to answer them. Jim McIlvaine eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc. www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
I have done them all, From Optima's to Kinetic's to the Walmart Cheapies....Well the Walmart or NAPA ones win out!!! The Optimas work great for Door Stops!
Well, it looks like the Lincoln's (with all it's accessories) battery is a series 65 with ~800 cca and seems to be about $100. The next battery down (series 75?) seems to be about 500-600 cca for $80-90... or $50 for a real cheapie.
Maybe just me, but I think I recognize some "paralisys ****isys" going on. You're not running anything complicated. Decide if you want a top or side post and then judge by CCA and price and in that order. You'll find a compromise that will work fine. FWIW I am using a 26 series AZ in mine (also a SBF) and it spins it fine. I think its like 675cca.
Well I try to get the biggest battery that will fit ! Then I go for the CCA . I have done well with the Hell Mart cheapies and even in my boat ! They work well and stand up in the cold weather from sitting a long time too . Just remember you are paying extra money for the BIG names on batteries ! They are the ones that advertise in all the mags and TV so you are paying for all their ad money ! Remember , a name brand makes those cheap house brands ! Now if they were giving away this 6 pack batteries I would take them and sell it to the s**** man ! They aren't worth time to install in your car ! PURE JUNK !!!!! If you want to see what works , look at what everyone else is using at the local car shows and hot rod show ! They will tell you what works and what is junk ! Anyway , NAPA or Hell Mart gets my vote ! Retro Jim
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