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Need heat Insulation Suggestions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Capt.Mike, Apr 15, 2010.

  1. Capt.Mike
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 63

    Capt.Mike
    Member

    1940 Ford 2 Dr Sedan - While dis***embled I had the exhaust installed in the ch***is. Now that I am in the process of putting the body back on I see that the Flowmasters are almost tight against the floor pan in the area which will be under the rear seat. I will extend the exhaust pipe brackets which will move the mufflers down about 1 inch from the pan, but that's about all the clearance I can get without having the exhaust cut off and re-welded. Even doing that won't allow for much more than another inch of space, because of their location near the rear end. The area is a nice flat rectangle.

    Any suggestions for some type of insulating material that would stand up to the heat? I will be using insulation on the inside but I really need something between the pan and the mufflers.
     
  2. fasttimes
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 181

    fasttimes
    Member
    from NC

    Call Koolmat at (704) 662-9099 in Mooresville,NC. They Supply to the Race and Street Rod Guys.
     
  3. Garry Carter
    Joined: Mar 11, 2002
    Posts: 575

    Garry Carter
    Member

    And there are other options besides Kool-Mat (which is an excellent product). Of course, everyone sings the praises of Dyna-Mat but it's awfully pricey and requires a heat gun to install properly.

    There's a vendor here on the HAMB -- I think he goes by LoBuckRods or something like that -- who lives in Springtown TX. I bought some stuff from him that was very inexpensive (like about $30 - $35 for a 4' X 8' roll). It's a quarter-inch thick piece of closed-cell foam sandwiched between two layers of reflective foil. Used two rolls to do my coupe top to bottom, front to back, by simply making patterns for floors, doors, roof, trunk, etc. and then using 3M All-Purpose Adhesive (available for about $12 per can at WalMart) to put it in place. I have twin Smithy's directly under the seat and this stuff is working well to keep heat and noise out ... after 6 months or so I'm still satisfied.
     
  4. Capt.Mike
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 63

    Capt.Mike
    Member

  5. shortbed65
    Joined: Feb 20, 2009
    Posts: 204

    shortbed65
    Member
    from ne Ill

    You can salvage a heat shield from a late 90's Grand Cherokee .... sort of a quilted aluminum panel that was supported by 1-4" studs on the bottom of the floor pan ....
    the one that fell off my wifes GC is about 8" x 36"
     
  6. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

  7. I took 2 flat pieces of stainless from commercial kick plates, and installed them between the floor and the mufflers. I spaced them off of the floor with 2 jam nuts, then tightened from the bottom. Made a big difference in the heat transfer.
     
  8. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,696

    Weasel
    Member

    +1 for Koolmat - wouldn't use anything else on the firewall.

    Isn't Dynamat meant for sound reduction not heat reduction?
     
  9. Side
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 159

    Side
    Member

    Flowmaster makes heat shields for their mufflers. Jet or HPC coating also helps.
     
  10. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,944

    big creep
    Member

    lizard skin works rad! my buddy has it on his ride! and the muffler is right on the floor! and its cool to the touch!
     

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