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removing bones from axle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chopt31, Apr 16, 2010.

  1. chopt31
    Joined: Dec 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,183

    chopt31
    Member

    any ideas? i want to save bones and axle, have tried heating hammering, drilling cutting, SWEARING
     
  2. burninbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 176

    burninbilly
    Member

    try a good soaking indiesel fuel,or a soaking in a mix of 50,50 acidtone and atf mixed
     
  3. fordrat31
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 380

    fordrat31
    Member
    from Palmer, MA

    Heat and melt in some bee's wax.
     
  4. careyohio
    Joined: Jun 6, 2008
    Posts: 410

    careyohio
    Member

    Best way I have found to remove the bolts is the following:
    Heat the boss on the front and back side ,get it real hot ,then melt some candle wax around the bolt . Block the axel up. Take a pointed air chisel bit ( cheap set from Habor Fright ) and insert the point into the bolt centering hole in the bolt ( the side you took the nut off of ) and push down hard on the air chisel while pulling the trigger. It may take a half min. or so of pounding, but it will break the bolt loose without damage to the bolt.
     

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  5. doctorZ
    Joined: Apr 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,271

    doctorZ
    Member

    let them soak for a week or so in a mix of acetone and atf (50/50) and then use an air chisel.
     
  6. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    If you hammered it a lot so far, it is likely swelled in the bores...ask me how I know..

    I did more this week. I tried the candle wax after heating red hot... no hitting, just heat..let it cool enough so the wax does not ignite, then lots of wax.

    Then go away :) let it cool completely. If it was never hammered, you would then lock onto the bolt and feel it move just a few thousands each way.

    Then I did not dare hit it. So I chucked the top of the perch bolt in a huge bench vise with axle/bones upside down, and then got it to turn back and forth using PB Blaster, too. I even saved the 32/34 perch bolts.


    If you already swelled the perches in the bores, you may need to keep drilling like the set I did a month ago. That set I SHOULD have tried wax...not my sledge! I swore I'd never do another after the ***ache of drilling/torching/plasma'ed to that set...but I was wrong
     
  7. Wax is magic stuff.
     
  8. burninbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 176

    burninbilly
    Member

    interesting about the wax ,,so how does it work,u heatem and lay the wax to it and it ****s the wax in,aiding in removing
     
  9. Wax flows in via capillary action. Use it on many thing, good on hinges
     
  10. burninbilly
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 176

    burninbilly
    Member

    Interesting. i will remember this,hmmm always learning on this site ,i like that.sweeping floors and learning from guys who have done it right on
     
  11. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    I have taken many, many apart and sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you don't. I don't like to use a torch if i don't have to, but if you do it will shock the bond between the rust and the metal. Then use a BIG hammer and pound the bolt loose, but doing so mushrooms the end and before it gets down in the cup cut the smashed end off and move to a punch. I have allways used WD-40 but will try the wax on the next set.

    If all this fails i have drilled the bolt out and when you get atleast half of the bolt diameter drilled out it lets the bolt kind of come in on itself, or relieve stress/bind and can be pressed or punched out out.

    Oh, and beer helps with the aggrivation, and pain from missing the punch and hitting your hand.
     
  12. wax love the stough

    if you know how to salder coper pipe it will pull the wax in just like salder
     

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