Engine, ain't broke don't fix it, or freshin up while it out vote.

Guys I am very please with the 261 chevy I picked up out a good running 54 chevy 2 ton today to go into my 49 chevy coupe. It started and reved great even with old gas. No knocks or even tics. $500 sound like alot fora greasy old 6 cylinder but it is what i wanted.

Here is the million dollar question. I am already going to have covers, oil, pan and head of for valve job and unleade seats update. I am going to put a seal kit in it stop the leaks and clean it up a bit. These things are decided.

What i am not sure about is if i should just take the rod and main caps off and see if they are standard or oversized and replaced them and the oil pump. This is the hard to get to stuff while in the car. Like I said it sounded great and had great (cold) oil pressure, so it may last forever or a day.

 

I always go new or rebuilt. One thing I hate is to dig into the engine after the car is running/driving. Also, I know what I got.

 

If I wasn't going to take it apart for the rest of that stuff I'd run it, but my experiance with used engines is once disturbed the grease gods get angry. So I'd freshen it up.

 

I second that... (Angry grease gods are like a moody female.)

 

I would freshen it up. Check bearing clearances, lightly hone bores and fit new rings. I would also pull the oil pump apart, and at least have a look inside.

Even with sweet running engines I have found rings gummed up and stuck solid in the ring grooves, and badly scored oil pump housings. Maybe the last owner never changed the oil?

 

Stovebolts will run forever if properly maintained and not over revved. Engine parts, or a full rebuild is/are ridiculously expensive. Stop the leaks, do the valve job and run it!

 

Every engine I pull out that aint gonna get freshened up always gets new seals, gaskets and an oil pump as well as all of the bearings checked, mic'd and cleaned (oil p***ages included)

at the very least do that, wont take much time and you'll have a better idea on what time it is engine wise.

 

Just last year I let a water pump turn into a full rebuild on my 460 in my f250.....don't get carried away.

 

Freshin' the dam thing!!!!

 

If it were mine, I'd pull it apart. I once tore down a 235 that sounded fine and didn't seem to smoke, and found a broken ring. Besides, I don't think that 55 year old gaskets are the way to go. A gasket set and rings won't cost you that much, and if the valve guides end up being worn, they're removable and still available from just about any parts store. If you don't already know this, the exhaust valves are the same as the 1.5 inch valve used in millions of sbcs, and are therefore dirt cheap.

 

I just tore down the 235 for a 53 chevy.. Going to replace all the gaskets, hone and rering, rebuilt the oil pump and put in new timing gears. Also redid the head since it was burning alot of oil.

When I pull the rods and crank, I'm going to check everything else out and see what it really needs. As long as nothing is majorly wrong, I'm going to ****on it back up.

 

i agree with heathen check your guides, valve seats, give her a hone, new rings, oil pump and fel pro gaskets, bearings are around cheap on ebay etc if you look. ive pulled apart good running engines and found seized and broken rings with sad bearings. It ****s to take an engine back out after hes been painted and got yourself all stoked up. -andrew

 

You can pay me now, or you can pay me later....

 

Well geeze, this is tough. On one hand, I would say leave the bottom end alone. Your not pulling trailers with this thing. But, since you already pulled the head, and want to put a oil pump in it, your not that far from pulling it all apart. I spoke with a local shop on doing a 31 Chevy engine. He said from the machine shop standpoint, if the cylinders arent far off, they can be re-ringed and new bearings easy. (that is the condensed conversation) Course thats if all the planets align for me.

I am putting a 31 Chevy together and want a driver engine so I dont have to pull one apart. The one in the engine turns by hand nice and I want to check the compression. However, the fantasy that I could get it to run after who knows how long of hibrenation would be silly. I am getting two possible motors that were running, and I feel safer with them.

 

I say look at this from a practical point of view. Just cause it isn't doing anything funny doesn't mean it's not about too. I felt really fine the day before my heart stopped due to a blocked artery!
I would first do a compression check and leak down to know whats up with ring seal. Than pull it apart and have a look. If the bearing are good, leave em alone. If they are bad, change em. Also look at the timing chain and oil pump. Off you go.

 

now is the time!

 

I would just drive it and not worry about the hardened seats.
But if you pull it apart to get a valve job, why not put a little bit oversized cam in it and new oil pump rings ect?

 

Got the head off to take in to the shop tomorrow. Cleaned off the top of the pistons with a wire cup brush and see .010" So I ***ume it has been rebuilt and bored out once over it past 50 plus years. I will get in the oil pan this week and let you know what I find. We will see if the bearings are oversized or not too.

Ray

 

Do it now! last time I did something like this I had to pull the motor a month later....because one of the bearings let go.