Just scored this quickchange for an offer that's a bargain no matter what it is. Even if it's useless it makes me smile. I've asked for more pics and details but until they come in all he can tell me is... . Can anyone identify what I have here?
Looks identical to my Winters Championship-size quickchange....it should have a 4.86 ring and pinion [most common] with probably a full spool...Mine is photo'd upside down.. Oops! Mine is a Frankland,,,not a winters...damn CRS.
Thanks guys. Full spool sounds a bit undriveable. Can they be modified for street use? 4.86 sounds like a lot of fun!
Yes....you can buy a posi carrier and if you want to keep the wide 6 pattern you can buy hubs with bosses for rotors. That gives you disc brakes. Or you can buy different ends to accept modern 9 inch ford bearings and flanged axle shafts like a conventional rear axle.. I'm going with wide 5 hubs with rotors and keeping mine a full floater. Already bought my parts at the local roundy-round race shop....all good used stuff. Still gotta buy my posi carrier. Look at yours...it may already have a conventional posi or open carrier in it. Check the rear spur gears too...the number of teeth is stamped on the gears themselves...
Cool! I hope it does have a posi carrier and already be "streetified" because that would make it a super duper bargain! As soon as I get more pics I'll post them. I must admit though I've never heard of a "wide 6" pattern. Does that refer to a 6 bolt wheel? If it does end up being a Franklin where can I go to buy the bits I need to make it streetable?
You can get everything you need through the Winters website. Parts are available and in stock. I just sold one a week or so ago. Frankland parts interchange with Winters. You can purchase 3 inch od tubing and Ford ends for the axel tubes. Change it out to a 31 spline Locker set up and run aftermarket Ford axels. Some people hate them. If you've ever heard a motor with a gear drive in it thats what your rear end will sound like. I was going to run one in my 49 Cadi just for kicks but changed out to a Ford 9inch.
Oh this is just getting cooler by the minute! I love sounds. I have another new winters QC (check my 26T link) coming also which is straight out of the Speedway catalogue (it was on the car when I bought it) but I like this older one because it's...well...old. I'm going to need to use a floating axle if I run my deep dish wheels (authorities are really paranoid down here) so am I right in presuming that Ford 9" stuff fits (or can be made to fit) in this? Excuse my ignorance here. School me please.
Absolutely if you use the right axel ends. I ran the late model Torino style end just beacuse they have a big aftermarket following in the brake department. When it come to internals there really isn't a whole lot inside a quickchange. If you had a 4;86 R&P and a spool it was probably run on a dirt track. You'll also fine here on the HAMB there are several guys that run a spool on the street without any problems. When you get to the two rear gears that sit in the rear case go with straight cut gears if you like em noisy.
Looks like an old Frankland, like the others said the parts interchange with Winters. Speedway is a good choice for parts for them. Here's a few things to consider: 1. You can get a Detroit Locker for it. Probably the best street type rearend to use. The Gold Track/Quick Trac/Velvet Touch type carriers are too labor intensive. Stick with the Detroit Locker. 2. You can go to steel "Grand National" axle tubes. That lets you keep the full floater but have a more common 5 on 5 or 5 on 4-3/4 bolt pattern. It also makes it really easy to put disk brakes on. 3. The ring and pinion could be a 4.11, 4.57 or 4.86. You can pretty much make it anything from 2.50 to 7.50 with a simple $50 set of spur gears. 4. The u-joint is a really common piece, Speedway also sells the joints to fit. 5. I would suggest Red Line, Royal Purple or some other Pure synthetic oil. You don't want to skimp on that area. Look for high cling. 6. Don't just cut down any old tube to put in it. They are easy to change if you know how. PM me for details. There are also seals in the side bell on one side and the axle tube on the other. No oil goes to the hubs, it all stays in the middle. 7. Check into REM polished gears. They run cooler and quieter. Enjoy and feel free to ask any questions. Been running them for 15 years in dirt late models myself. I also converted a set of 9" tubes so I could use a 9" axle and drum brakes for a track T I built. SPark
I love the H.A.M.B. SPark, thanks a lot for that excellent info. As soon as I get more pics I'll post them up to confirm. Any idea if the QC11 and QC85 mean anything? I don't have pics to show me where they are, if they are raised letters or stampings. All he said is that these codes are "on it".
You could get onto the speedway racers in Australia, they're into all that QC stuff, the sprint car guys are always getting things straightened and fixed.
Actually that's a good idea! I even have an uncle who used to race speedway down here at Rolley Park and then out at Speedway park at Virginia. Onya.
Sprint car is a totally different deal. Open tube, shifter on the lower shaft, different side bells and seals. About the only thing that interchanges is the rear cover and gears. Spark
I know you asked for a PM, but I figured I can't be the only one who wants to know, so if you wouldn't mind posting up how to swap tubes, that would be great. Thanks,
First you need to get the old tubes out. Several ways to do this. You have to take out all 8 bolts that go through the side bell and into the axle tube. They are usually 3/8" and only about an inch or so long. Don't worry about the axle tube falling out of the side bell, it won't. Next you need to split the housing. We always stood it on the left side. We put a hub on the end, stood it up in a wheel lying on the ground so the housing was standing with the tubes going straight up and down. Take out all the thru bolts that go thru the side bells and center section. Most of the older ones are 7/16 but you will occasionally run across some 3/8" bolts, usually newer sprint stuff or Jones rearends. There is one bolt on each side that only threads into the center section. It is in line with the driveshaft so it is a threaded hole in the center secion, not a thru bolt. Once you have all the bolts out, lift off the right side bell, then the center with the ring gear, then the center section and all you have left standing is the left bell and axle tube. If you are worried about lining things up when you are ready to go back together, don't. The side bells only go on 1 way, the holes won't line up if it's wrong. I always put a punch mark where it won't show on the center section and the edge of the side bell just to make lining things up easier, don't have to keep turning things to get holes to line up. Now to get those old tubes out. Option #1, use a press and simply press it out of the side bell from the inside. This can take some serious pressure if it's an old steel tube in an aluminum bell. Option #2 is heat the bell around the axle tube with a rosebud tip. Don't go crazy here. The bearing race for the carrier will probably fall out but don't panic. Once it's nice and warm, apray a cold garden hose down the middle of the tube and the tube may fall out, this one never works for me. Option #3 is heat the tube as you put pressure on the tube and hold the side bell in place. I usually bolt the side bell to a length of angle iron and trap the angle iron beneath the legs of my engine hoist. Wrap a chain around the axle tube and put slight pressure against it. Now start heating and adding pressure with the hoist until the tube works out. SPark
Things to watch for are: When heating the sidebell, your races on the sides of the carrier will probably fall out of the side bells. Don't panic, just keep them straight right and left for re-assembly. When you lift out the ring gear and carrier, you might see a little steel puck against that rides against the back side of the ring gear. Just lift it out, it is externally adjustable later when going back together. If your tube won't come out, be sure all the little bolts that go through the side bell and into the axle tube are out. Shouldn't take more than a few tons of pressure to get the tube out but I have had some stubborn ones that took 15 tons to break loose. Look at how the seals are put in the side bell/end of the axle tube so you can repeat this on assembly. To put a new tube in is really easy. I measure the depth of the socket on the sidebell that the axle tube goes into and mark that depth on my axle tube so I know when the tube is in all the way and flush with the inside step in the side bell (usually 5"). Place the axle tube in the freezer before this whole operation starts. If you don't have a freezer handy, when you start getting ready to put the tubes in, stand the new tube, sidebell end in the bucket, in a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket with ice. Now heat the side bell, when it's nice and warm (slightly too hot to touch, not melted!) take your frozen tube and drop it into the socket in the sidebell. Should drop all the way in and they are usually loose enough to rattle around a little. Don't worry, it'll tighten up as the bell cools and tube warms up. I always tap the threaded end of the axle tube with a dead blow just to be sure it's all the way in and not sitting on an ice cube or something stupid like that. Once your tube is in, you need to tap the holes for the retaining bolts. I use a 3/8NF to -4AN fitting I have had lying around for ever. I screw it into the hole in the side bell so it rests against the axle tube and drill through the center of the fitting and all the way through the axle tube. Repeat for all 8 holes. Now enlarge the holes to the required sixe and tap to 3/8NF. The side bell acts as a drill and tap guide. If you are putting floater axle tubes in, be sure to pay attention and keep your lock washer slots at the tops of the tubes, makes assembly easier. Winters web site has a good exploded view to help with piece location. Anything else, just ask. SPark
Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain all that SPark. That's some good and important information. Sounds a bit involved but just school me; changing tubes is necessary only when...? I like the idea of using as many Ford 9 inch components as possible and am glad to hear I can use a Detroit locker and I also like the idea of using Ford 9 inch tubes for the brakes and in my case a full floater assembly (required down here to run offset rims). When I get some closer pics and get to see what's inside I'll post on here for further advice.
The locker is not a 9" piece. It's basically the same but it is made for a quickchange. The widths, bearings and ring gear mounting points are all different between a 9" and a QC. For full floating axles, you will be using aftermarket pieces most likely. If you use a 9" tube, it has to be turned down to a true 3" diameter or it won't fit in the side bells. If you use the 9" tube, you have to use a 9" style axle, retained by the plate on the end of the tube, not full floating. I have bought aftermarket axles and had stock ones shortened and resplined, wither will work. A true full floating rearend uses a hub mounted on a spindle and a separate floating axle that fits inside a drive plate on the end of the hub, can't get that in a 9" I am aware of. If you go to a floater, you will probably be using disc brakes, no place to mount the backing plates on any floater axle tube I know of. I have a friend in the aftermarket axle business, let me know when you are ready to tackle this and he would be a great deal of help. Manufactures and sells floaters, parts, gears, axles, bearings, etc. SPark
Yes but...the speedway guys, and not just the sprintcar racers, may have some local knowledge and/or contacts.
x2. Thank you very much. Not from the factory, AFAIK, but there are plenty of aftermarket floater setups for Ford 9" rear ends. Look at the circle track shops and you will find plenty of them. There are three different hub types (Wide 5, GN 5×5 and 2") so you cannot be sure that what you find will work with what you already have, but the tubes you use on the QCs are used for Ford 9" rears as well.
We run a 9" based floater on our mods now, very familier with them. Used to run QC in our late models. Yes, the floaters are based on 9", my point is that you can't use stock type drum brakes with a floater since they don't have a place to mount a backing plate. I suppose you could fab up backing plate mounts as easily as disc brake mounts...... SPark
The important thing I think for me is how I can use this under my car. I have no complex requirements (such as racing or heaps of power to try to put down) but I'd like to continue using drum brakes and get it working. If the gears and internals are unsuitable or too far from being useful for a street car then it goes into the "Gallery Of Smile Creation" or becomes the basis for another project. Maybe something I can use my 16x11 Magnesiums and spindle mount fronts on. I'm sure many (including myself) will bookmark your advice and contributions. Thanks to all who replied. Many newbies out here who love the old stuff but just need some guidance.
THANKS A BUNCH!! I just got off the phone with Frankland about a 60's original qc i'm picking up this weekend- it needs a new tube and i intended on getting Moser 8 3/4 ends and axles instead of the nine so that i could use my mopar drums brakes, but i'm starting to think being such a cheap ass isn't warranted if i can set it up myself. Frankland stated they'd only charge 75bucks for complete retubing and setup- parts extra of course, but shipping that far definitely puts a strain on things. If i was to go with the grand national tubes/hubs, i could stay 5 on 5 or 5 on 4 3/4". but would have to get fab up disc brakes? (wont that be peachy behind the drums on my front straight axle, lol). I'm planning on 650hp max on 30x13 MT ET Streets (grooved dot legal slicks) at about 2900-3000lbs wet with NO trans brake. will the floater drive plates handle this or should i really head for the ford torino tubes... -rick.
69Fury, if you are talking about drag racing on wide DOT race tires, the quick change isn't a good choice... The one thing they don't like is serious shock loads. We run QCs (Winters mostly) in supermodifieds and they last forever unless the rear tires get lifted off the track and dropped (rear end collision). The reverse lash splits the spur gear housing and the gears can blow the back cover off (kinda looks like your avatar actually :-D). Think about how many serious drag cars you've seen running them...? It might work, but I'd feel bad not sharing that problem with you...
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