I am looking for a univeral firewall mount ***embly with the pedal . I want to upgrade the brakes fom under the frame manual single master cylinder to a firewall powerbooster dual master cylinder. I am keeping the drums for now all the way around. who has a good setup. Its for my 53 cadillac.
I know you've seen my Caddy thread...I used a 7" booster and a Corvette master...kept it under the floor, off the firewall...works great... Kugel sells some good ones... R-
thanks Roger but I have a header right next to the stock m/c right now. I dont think that setup will work for me. thats why I am looking at a firewall mount.
Double C, Mine is kinda pieced together (in a 51 62 series mordor). I fabbed a mount plate to replace the defroster & used a pedal ***y. from a 72 he**** with a booster/master from (I think) a 66 Fleetwood. The pedal swings on the left of the column & is real close at the bottom of the swing. I also have some stopping problems due to improper geometry in the system that I blame on myself. Sorry to say I haven't had time to figure it all out yet but if anyone else has any good ideas I'll be listening too. Thanks, Al
This is what I used in my '53 Caddy - just a universal 7" street rod kinda deal off ebay. Mine was in a disc brake setup but no reason you couldn't plumb it for drums. Can't remember exactly what the brake pedal came off of but I'm pretty sure it was a Camaro or S10 ***embly.
Thank you much guys for responding I found an 8inch dual diaphram booster setup for drum/drum brakes with pedal ***embly for $185.00 shipped thru a place called Pirate Jacks in Street Rodder magizine. I will p*** on what type of quality and service I get from it. My next question is what is the correct way to plumb it . My old system is a single line out of the M/C into a block then 3 lines out to the brakes. No portioning valve or residuial valve. Do I need to use residual valves out of the master cylinder that is already set up for drums??? I want to be able to stop every time
IF the master has residual valves in it your OK and dont need to add any downstream. There is a way to check, but it skips my mind. I think it is just a little rubber seal after the piston... Anyhow, run your fronts to the first port (closest to pedal) and rears from the second and you should be good. Dont forget to bench bleed the master prior to installing it.
when I bought my dodge 11 years ago it had a GM booster, single cyl. master and pedal from a buick riviera bolted to the firewall....the pedal was notched to clear the column. Last year I upgraded to front dics brakes and swapped in an 88 chevy pickup booster with a dual master cyl minus the ABS. the same setup may work for you if you can find that older pedal ***embly....the booster had slightly larger studs....oh...and I did have to graft the pushrod from the chevy booster to the rivi pushrod since they were different diameter....stops straight and even.....hope this clicks for 'ya..!!!
Probably not with the proportioning valve. Set it up with out and drive her. If your back end starts p***ing you while stopping, add one. Most Drum/drum setups i've seen dont need it. g
one more question the rear wheel cylinders are 3/16 and the fronts are 1/4 . I swapped out the caddy rear and put in a chevy 12 bolt. I am running 1/4 all the way back to the rear and have it reduced to 3/16 on the rear . should I keep it this way or run 3/16 from the m/c to the back???
Double C, While listening to a bunch of differing opinions on this I've come to believe no residuals are needed if the master is above the wheels & a proportioning valve shouldn't be needed on an all drum system. Please keep us posted on the setup you picked up. Al
Thank you all for responding to my questions. I have never had to design my own braking system. I think I have what I need. I will post up what I finish with. Have a great weekend.
actually I have . I have been having an issue with no pressure/feel. the flairing tool that I have was doing a very poor job sealing . the grippers on the block were smooth. The local speedshop bigfoot lent me their Snap On hydraulic flairing tool. I hope to have new lines bent and flaired by the weekend. My job has been keeping me very busy the last couple of weeks. If this works I will be driving and getting the mufflers finally put on.
Any time someone wants to come up with a "universal" pedal mount I have to point out Chevy van pedal units. 95-back they hang to the right of the column, '97-up to the left, they bolt to the firewall and one other place under the dash, have the standard GM booster pattern or will take a manual M/C, and are fricking cheap at the junkyard. I have a '97 out now I'd sell for $25. You gotta drill your own holes and fab a bit, but that shouldnt be a big deal. And I think if the pedal config won't work for you, you could swap out the entire arm with one from some other GM vehicle.
I got the brakes to work consistantly now .I had another master cylinder sent to me . the front port was machined too deep. the line nut would not seat properly. Pirate Jack sent it no problem. kind of cheap parts but SUPER CUSTOMER SERVICE. it was sent the next day that I called up. once I got the lines completely bled the brakes feel good and stop the car with a nice feel pedal. . I turned the rod in the M/C around so the booster would engage the M/C sooner . It only took about a gallon and a half of brake fluid to get all the air out. thanks for everyones input. sorry it took so long to post the final results I have been driving the CADDY .
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