Howza Bruthas, So I am awaiting some funds to finish the ch***is for the roadster project and was wondering if there are some cheap tricks for hopping up a small block Ford. I have a fourbarrell intake, it will feature a set of homemade Frankenheaders, and from there-? Also, is there any blocks that were better than others? Dual timing chains, stiffer castings? Any leads or info would be great! Thanx...
Check the Tech-O-Matic for a great dissertation on the venerable SBF by Fat Hack. Lots of great info there. Read it - it should answer most question, if not, come back with specific questions.
Best thing for a Ford is replace the heads as they all stink on exhaust. The last heads were a big improvement but available only in Rangers and carried an R designation. I'm thinking '96-'99
on stock heads, grind out the bump in the exhaust port that blocks flow. look in there, its obvious what i am talking about
I am going with a late model block with a roller cam. Used parts can be had fairly cheap from the 5.0 Mustang guys, they swap around a lot of parts in their eternal quest to shave a thousandth.
Spooky if you want the best small block Ford that is readily available for small money get yourself a 302 from a late Explorer (`96- `01). These are roller cam equipped, hypereutetic pistons, and the GT-40 heads. The GT-40 heads have larger ports and valves and a very efficient combustion chamber. Junk the factory exhaust manifolds and sell the injection system to a 5.0 Mustang guy. Bolt on a 650 carb and slide in an M-6250-E303 cam and you'll be waving bye bye to 350's. The best part is you can dress the engine in vintage accessories and no one will know the diff. BTW late Ford small blocks are very high quality with a very durable type of iron alloy that really prolongs engine life. Routinely these things are torn down with 100,000 plus miles and no ridge and still showing crosshatch. The cylinder bores are oval shaped on their outer perimeter to give more strength in the thrust directions and the main webbing is beefier than the early blocks. All Explorers and Mustang 5.0's come with a dual roller timing chain. Ford small blocks have used a full circle rear main seal since `81 and the later ones utilize a one piece pan gasket that will fit any 221-302 back to 1962. Just keep in mind you must match the correct 28 or 50 ounce balancer and flywheel to the appropriate crank. All sbf's were 28oz till 80 when that was changed to 50oz for manufacturing reasons.
Oh I forgot to tell ya the GT-40 Explorer heads DO NOT have thermactor bumps in them that require a die grinder. They do however have a relocated spark plug for a faster burn effect that can interfere with some aftermarket headers. If you are building your own headers this of course won't affect you.
Why hasn't anyone suggessted buying a boat so you can use the SBF for an anchor? Then replace it with a SBC. Word of caution. don't scare yourself and get into the SBC easy, they tend to soil the undershorts of SBF guys. . I couldn't help myself, besides you Ford guys need someone to beat up on to start the new year off right. Frank
[ QUOTE ] Oh I forgot to tell ya the GT-40 Explorer heads DO NOT have thermactor bumps in them that require a die grinder. They do however have a relocated spark plug for a faster burn effect that can interfere with some aftermarket headers. [/ QUOTE ] AND the ports are raised up, so some header/ch***is combos no longer fit correctly...if putting it into something like an early Mustang, carefully check your "off the shelf" headers...
Also a small but importent improvement, replace the stock oil pump drive shaft with the beefier Ford SVO unit. The stock pump shafts have a nasty tendency to shear off under hard use. Also be mindful of how it seats in when you do replace it, it can be a little tricky to get it to seat right and no seaty no oily. Another cheap way to get some extra ponies is to install a crank s****er. You can make one or buy one, either way it's good for a few extra HP.
Heh heh Heh Frank, yer so funny I fergot to laugh... PFFFFFFFFFFFTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTtttttttttttttttttt........... Dadgummed GM guys anyways.. Yer probably the same guy who made fun of me fer liking DEVO in high school...
[ QUOTE ] oh and what are thermacter bumps? [/ QUOTE ] They are bosses cast into the roof of the exhaust ports with holes drilled into them that intersect a common internal air p***age for the purpose of injecting fresh air into the hot exhaust stream. They are used to promote the continued burning of any unburned mixture that p***es the exhaust valve. Simply an emissions feature that hurts the performance of the exhaust port. If you decide to use a basic late small block Ford head grind them down and blend them into the port roof and valve guide boss.
[ QUOTE ] oh and what are thermacter bumps? [/ QUOTE ] something that will ruin your day if you **** them up with a die grinder
[ QUOTE ] Also a small but importent improvement, replace the stock oil pump drive shaft with the beefier Ford SVO unit. The stock pump shafts have a nasty tendency to shear off under hard use. Also be mindful of how it seats in when you do replace it, it can be a little tricky to get it to seat right and no seaty no oily. Another cheap way to get some extra ponies is to install a crank s****er. You can make one or buy one, either way it's good for a few extra HP. [/ QUOTE ] This reminds me; if you want to save some horsepower DO NOT run a high volume pump. Small block Fords do not need them up to about 400 hp. It just wastes energy since a great deal of the extra oil goes through the byp*** valve. Also if tou rebuild an early engine try to take advantage of the modern low friction rings. They don't cost much more than the standard stuff and they reduce parasitic loss. The small block Ford, especially the roller cammed ones will reward you with a surprising amount of performance in near stock form since they are way oversquare, have a light piston/rod ***y, and a light but strong crank right from the factory. As stated before the ports and valves are kinda small on the standard heads but when this is corrected all you need is a decent cam/carb/intake then hang on!
Another simple little trick it to use some restricted flow gallley plugs if ya plan on getting on it alot. Ford SVO offers 'em as well as Morosso and a few others. While they don't increase your horsepower really, they will help save your bottom end from oil starvation when your mash the throttle and the oil pump pumps all the oil into the top end leaving little for the crank. Cheap simple protection. Also make sure to replace the stock timing set with a double chain set. the stock 302 timing sets (86-end of production I belive) use nylon timing gears and they are notorious for chipping and breaking off teeth if you abuse them, either way I just like knowing that I have quality timing components even if I baby the thing.
[ QUOTE ] Another simple little trick it to use some restricted flow gallley plugs if ya plan on getting on it alot. [/ QUOTE ] I haven't looked lately, but I do believe those restrictor kits are meant for solid-lifter camshafts - not hydraulics. Additionally, the concern about pumping all the oil to the top end is overstated on basic SBF - it was a problem with the 351C & Hi-Vol pumps. Windsors have different p***ages though & even a Hi-Vol pump (which you don't need on the street) shouldn't pump all your oil to the top end - even on sustained high rpm blasts (***uming all your drainbacks are clear).
For the money you spend to make a 302 run you could start off with a 351W/5.8 which has as many hop up choices as its baby brother. There is no subs***ute for cubic inches.
right on flat ernie... the 351c is the only ford that really could do with a oilway restrictor....think it restricts oil from #1 or #4 if i remember right... theres a major prob with oiling there and hipo uses are destined to fail without some sort of help... altho i did speak to a guy from Roushes the 351 spe******ts and they reckon a good quality HV oil pump will also help solve the problem... i think his reckoning was that the higher volume of oil thru the regular oil way creates better lubrication of the crank n rods.. on his advice i have built my 351c without restrictor, and fitted a melling HV pump.. i guess i'll let y akno how i get on...
Do like me...Not cheap...and will actually hurt your performance on a "stock" SBF, but you will freaking look like a stud when you pop the hood!
The Ford small blocks (221,260,289,302,351W) DO NOT need oil restrictors. The 351 Clevelands had a two main oil galley system and the upper end shared some oil flow from one of these main oil p***ages. When revs climbed racers found the need to restrict oil to the top end in an effort to maintain a satisfactory oil supply to the rods and mains. This is not an issue for the aforementioned small block Fords.
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] oh and what are thermacter bumps? [/ QUOTE ] something that will ruin your day if you **** them up with a die grinder [/ QUOTE ] With all due respect RACEFAB, how do you mean?
The Explorer heads are actually the GT-40 P, a little better than the GT-40 without the P. Also the 347 stroker kit is quite popular. The one Stacey built for Crazy Horse on Trucks dynoed at almost 400 horse and wasn't radical at all. Mustangs ar running 9s with those little motors so I don't think the Chevys have much on them anymore.
The small block Ford short block ***embly is fairly tough and pretty light. Additionally, the 4"x3" bore/stroke configuration (on a 302) lends itself to natural revving ability with gobs of performance potential. The key to getting any real power out of those engines at all is in the heads...this is true of almost any engine, but especially so on Ford and Pontiac V8s. Ford realized this when they created the fabled Boss 302, which was essentially a set of 351-C heads bolted onto a 302 block with additional mods for durability. These days, the aftermarket has stepped up to provide several attractive choices to the small block Ford builder, making the old "Clev-or" (Cleveland head/Windsor block)swaps almost obsolete. The new haeds use 289/302 intakes and don't require special machine work or parts swapping to make them work...it is truly a good time to be into small block Fords...thanks largely to the 5.0 Mustang crowd! That said, I've always had good luck with older small blocks by running mid 60s small chamber 289 heads on pre 78 302 engines. It bumps up the compression, but the port and valve sizes limit the rpm potential. Still, with a good 351W cam (using the 351W firing order), a good DUAL PLANE intake, Holley 600, dual point distributor and headers, this can be a very affordable way to build a budget 302 that will run strong on the street. Tri-Y headers work wonders on small Fords, but are difficult to find for applications other than 60s Mustang/Cougar?Fairlane/Etc. A little carefull die grinder work in the exhaust ports with any decent header will get the job done, however.
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] oh and what are thermacter bumps? [/ QUOTE ] something that will ruin your day if you **** them up with a die grinder [/ QUOTE ] With all due respect RACEFAB, how do you mean? [/ QUOTE ] what I mean, and should have said is, it is easy to get carried away with a die grinder, and screw up the heads, i just threw out 3 heads to the s**** pile that were ruined by guys tryng to "smooth" and "blend" the exhaust ports and get rid of the bumps. people's versions of smooth and blend can sometimes have very different meanings, i think it would be wise for anyone attempting it to get reference pictures or videos of what they look like stock , and properly done. i didnt mean to offend any one
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