Cutting Tie Rods of set the toe????

I have a 69 Camaro subframe under my 1950 Ford Shoebox. I just completely rebuilt the front end. Now as I try to get the toe-in correct, I can't because the tie rods are adjusted all the way in. Can I just cut an even amount of the inner and outer tie rod thread to get the space needed to correctly set the toe. I don't want to drive a death trap, but I also don't want to buy tires every 6 months. Any Suggestions????

 

Did you narrow it?

 

How much do you need to cut, to set the toe correctly????
As long as the thread covered equals 1,5 X the Threaddiameter, you are fine
(1" thread should have 1½" thread covered)
NielsK

 

Or?????

If you didn't narrow it there is probably the wrong part in it somewhere.

If you still have the old pieces compare new to old and see where the difference is.

are the rod ends bottoming out in the sleeves or ??

Also you have to have the rig sitting on the ground with all it's running weight on it to set the front end right.

 

The tie rods are bottoming out in the sleeve. The old parts were a conglomerate of unknown parts. I just put in everything new, steering knuckles, pitman and idler arms, drag link,tie rods, control arm bushings and ball joints. The front end doesn't appear to be narrowed. I double checked the part #s and everything appears to be right. I think maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch off each ties rod will fix everything.

 

Corvette outer tie rod ends are shorter. I have Fatman narrowed control arms on my 38 Chev and used MOOG ES323l and ES323R. Any good parts atore will have catalogues with dimensions. Kind of a pain to find because they are listed by size, not part number. Good luck, Tom

 

What about cutting the centerlink instead? If you've got enough thread there to work with, that is.
It'd mean using stock tierod ends for when they need to get changed. Also, dressing external threads with a thread file or wire wheel is easier than cleaning up internal threads.

 

What MR48 chev said PLUS....Wondering if you don't have wrong tie rods in there(like, two outers where an inner and outer should be used or vice-versa). If you didn't narrow the subframe, that's got to be the issue. Cutting the centerlink isn't going to work-the idler arm and pitman arm need to swing in the same parallelogram-type arc. Make sure you have the correct tie rods in there. If they are, like others said, you could shorten the rods a little, making sure you leave enough "meat" in the sleeve to be safe.

 

Cut away, I would just cut the right hand threaded side, as I have the right handed tap for that size. If you don't might consider buying one, the right handed oneis cheaper BTW.

 

If you have an unmolested subframe and ALL of the correct parts for THAT subframe there should be NO reason that correct suspension specifications can not be reached WITHOUT altering the components. Somewhere in your ***embly you have incompatible components. Find them............... change them................problem solved.

Frank

 

There have been several supplyers of narrowed A-Frames over the years. Are you sure your working with factory O.E. units?
The Wizzard

 

Got pics?

 

The control arms are the only parts that I did not replace. Everything else checks out. I've double checked the tie rod Part#s. That's probably why the steering components were all mix matched. I guess that's the "fun" of hot rods.