Anything can be saved if you want it bad enough. the El Matador is a prime example. that car was in a bad fire & was pretty much screwed. it sat outdoors for several years with nothing covering it & the roof caved in. The guys who fixed it did a spectacular job, you would not know it was in a fire if you were not told. If all you have is blistered paint you should be able to repair it or have it repaired pretty easy. Thanks to Rikster for the pics, I got them from his fotki album.
this car burnt..was in a garage fire.all the paint was burnt off,a rafter came down on the panel between the decklid and the top,the gl*** was all burnt up,lead melted off,all the pot metal was in blobs...took it to the dipper and had it cleaned..no damage to the body from the heat..turned out pretty good.
'36 chevy 2 door w/artillery wheels been garaged for many years burned up a couple weeks ago just up the road from me. Sad sight.
The price would have to be very low for me to buy a burned 31 Murray 4 door! Also what is a slant windshield model A?
They were only made in 31 on 4doors, Here ya go on some slants, Murrays had curve to the top of the door openings, Here is a Briggs I have in the back yard, no slant. Buy the 4 door http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1
Back in the 60's I worked in a garage that used to also have a body shop. Before the body shop had closed they'd repainted a Falcon that had been in a garage fire similar to what you describe. They'd done a normal sanding and painting but after a little time the paint peeled. They had to sand it down again and repaint it. Several months later, after I was working there, it started peeling again. They brought it in again, this time another guy and I sanded it to bare metal, everywhere. They weren't taking any chances of a 3ed repainting. We sanded it entirely to bare metal, they started again. I never heard of it pealing after that. I suppose the lesson is, the old paint probably should all be removed, not just feathered out to look ok.
Im w/ Hnstray on this. If its runnin and it has a ***le the only thing that should stop you would be the price if its too high!
http://science.howstuffworks.com/iron4.htm burning steel with paint, dust, etc. on it will not let paint adhere to it. All you have to do is remove all paint, sand and clean really well. as stated before, welding metal melts it, but paint sticks to that....only after it is sanded and cleaned really well. clearly an old wive's tale
I did a repair on a 39 coupe that hit a moose. 6 months later, his shop burned down and completely burned the coupe. We redid that car in less than a year and in the 10 years since, I have not heard of any problems that he has had with it. BUY IT!
In July 2000 to my completely perfect '47 Chevy convertible after getting smashed at the Grand Canyon then once home taken to a shop for repairs where the day after the car was repaired and freshly painted lighting hit the building and burned to the ground.
and lots of us have experienced too much heat on a body panel when trying to weld it AND warped the **** outta the hood, fender, door, etc beyond repair. Not everything that has been heated is fixable. Ask me how I know.
Agreed.........but the reverse is also true.....that's all I'm saying. Another poster commented about depends somewhat on whether or not the car was doused with water while in the fire.........I agree with that too as being problematic. The real point is.........it all depends.......not all 'burners' are created equal. Sorry to hear you had such a string of misfortune with the Chevy Convert.....THAT is a really disappointing series of events. Ray
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