Paint Guys-Removing Paint Using a WireWheel

I"m just rippin the paint off with a Horrible Freight hand held wire wheel.

I am going all the way to bare metal and plan to hit the metal with 80 grit before shooting with Slick and Sand.

Sound kosher?

I was a bit worried with the wheel leaving some kind of paint spoosh film but I figure going over it with 80 should clean it off and provide good adhesion.

Whatta think?

Oldmics

 

There are easioer methods.. 9in grinder with 50grit discs will strip an entire car in a couple of hours....

 

Are you serious

 

Yeah, I've done it

 

im curious y ur wanting to use slicksand for primer on baremetal, not saying u cant, but if ur doing any large areas id use an epoxy. esp. if ur letting it sit in primer for awhile. polyprimer is the worst for elements.

 

Listen up. Slick Sand will not work on bare metal. It has no rust preventing properties.

You have to put down a sealer first, and the best sealer that is compatible with Slick Sand is PPG DP90. Acid etching primer wont work under Slick Sand, it has a reaction with the activator.

Bare metal, then DP90, Let the DP90 set over night, then slick sand.

Do not put Slick Sand on bare metal. Also, do not reduce Slick Sand with acetone, no mater if the label says you can, do not do it. Acetone causes moisture to collect while your shooting it, it drops the temp of your primer, and when it hits the warmer metal, it creates moisture just like an open soda on a warm day. Your primer coat will condensate just like the outside of that soda can.

 

I wouldnt do that either.

 

7" grinder, 80 grit to bare metal
wax and grease remover
epoxy primer (I use dp90 also)
bondo/metal work
2k primer
sealer
paint

my method. i've never used slick sand but from what I've read, I wouldn't use it (that's why I don't based on problems others have had)

 

Well he asked how to get the paint off, that method certainly works. Obviously only when a complete refinish with a fair amount of metal work is needed.

& I don't use DP90, I prefer the DP60 or DP48.. sometimes the DP40

altho these days it's actually DPLF as they took the lead out.

The last one I did I used the 60 on the bare metal & then the 48 as a sealer after all the bodywork/primer etc

 

Don't know about your current paint adhesion, but took the paint off my "Chevy II" with a razor blade s****er,(original paint with one re-paint) took off about 90% of it. Went fast and didn't have all the paint dust to deal with, just sweep up the shavings. You do have to be careful on certain contours as not to let the razor blade dig into the metal, but its a real quick, you get the hang of it thing. Good luck.

 

i stripped almost my whole car with a wire wheel..took about a month off and on...use epoxy primer before the slick sand...

 

did my whole 28 chevy with a wire wheel. A little dirty but did the trick. The old paint was a little "gooey" so this worked better than sand paper
Jim

 

Ditto,

The wire wheel works even better when there are several layers of paint.

 

and if u on a budget , use PCL DTM ( direct to metal )., sealer, primer, ecthing primer 3 in 1. make sure to by the PCL 2040 universal solvant to use the DTM as the sealer. 2 coats go a long way. protect your investment the right way.

 

if ya gotta use a grinder, i'd use those strip discs that look like a round scratch pad such as the ones sunchaser sells. the paint stores also have a few brands of them.
they dont gouge up the metal like 50 grit will. course paper is ok for an isolated spot needing attention, but not the smartest way to get your car to metal when doing a complete panel, or larger

i cant count how many damaged panels weve had to repiar from guys with grinders and course paper. the latest one being a batch of acura nsx parts (aluminum) the customer had stripped with 36 grit paper.. al i can say is what a mess, lol


skull

 

I like those 3M paint stripper wheels that are black, but they are kind of expensive, I'm no expert - are those the same as the sunchaser ones Skullhat is talking about?

 

here they are. work like a champ, i love em

 

i have black ones and red ones, not sure who makes them for them as they were sent as a sample


skull


edit: yeah,, like the picture above. those will take off the paint in a hurry,yet leave the metal right

 

Ya made me curious so I went to see what I used.. they are Norton 80, not 50. I've also used those black pads & I'm trying to remember where I sourced them, I think it was from a welding supply place. I do remember they were half the price that Eastwoods want for them...

 

wal-mart sells em cheap

 

Are you still serious , 2 hours, I call bull ****

 

This is what I use. But also depends on how much paint/body filler is on the car. If it's just the OG paint i'd say 3-4 hours with a buddy to help.

 

You overlooked one minor detail..... I didn't say what car it was

 

Here's where I get the 3M discs - how does this price compare?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2692170&PMT4NO=84638412

 

The ones from Sunchasers are awesome! A little more expensive than other places but well worth it. They also have them at Harbor Freight but i haven't tried those. Here's the link to Sunchasers.

http://64.78.59.162/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=STOS&Category_Code=SDRED

 

Check out Lehigh Valley Abrasives. Someone on here hiped me to them. Their cheap and quality.

 

i think wal-mart had em listed as $8 a piece or something like that but its been 6 months or so

 

I do the same thing when my wife catches me in a fib ( Back Track)

 

i dont think you could strip a mini cooper in 2 hours..

 

The HF ones last abut 30 minutes... do the sunchasers, 3M last a little longer?