Ok I got a killer deal on the stuff I need to finish my combo. Here's what I got. G.M. 2 piece main 69-80 4 bolt Cylinder Block. Scat 4340 forged crank 13 to 1 JE Forged Pistons (13 on a 64cc chamber - for 6" rod) G.M. 058 Bowtie iron heads. 2.02 - 1.60 / angle plug New PEP Stainless 2.05 Intake / 1.600 Exhaust Valves +.100 long Scat 6" H Beam rods G.M. oil pan new G,M, oil filter adapter Jackson timing gear factory windage try with standoffs MSD 6AL with Blaster II coil and MSD pro billet Dis. victor ram with two holley 660s on race gas t400 trans in to 4:86 gears 10 inch wide slicks 2800 lbs car. Any ideas on what kind of et's I'm looking at? Or thoughts on the combo. I'm putting this into my 61 Ford Falcon Gasser.
sounds like a pretty stout motor.there are too many variabls to try and give that kind of info.if the suspencion works well and you have a big enough converter to leave the line at a good rpm and can pull some low 60 ft times it should deff.be in the high 10s-low 11s.the 4.86 gears are pretty steep esp.if your tires are short.dep on how tall they are you could be going through the traps at over 7000 rpm!!
i did a quick search and with a 29"tire and 124mph the motors rpm is 7000.with the car weighing 2800lb and 400 rear wheel hp it should do 11.14 at 122mph.
Sounds reasonable to me. Traction will be entirely dependent on what suspension you use. The Falcon brings nothing to the party. The gears are a bit much in a car that light, but the TH400 is probably eating more power than it's worth. A well built glide or TH350 would save you a few pounds and a few HP. It could mean the difference between 11.20 and 10.70, all else being equal.
Thanks for all the advise. It sounds like I should go with a PG. I have heard with a 2800 lbs car I need the extra gear. That's why I was going with a T400. Maybe time to change.
This will most likely be no help to you but My Falcon is 2720lbs with me in it, I have a 10 to 1 351W hooked to a C-4 trans with 4.56 gears in the back, 2500 r.p.m. stall, best run so far this year was a 11.21 @ 119 with a 1.56 60 foot, thats leaving at 2100 foot braking it. I shift at 6500 and go out the back at 6700. You have more compression and your cam choice is still open. I am thinking of going to a 4.33 rear end gear at some point down the road. Good Luck, I like the tilt front end. Jon
My opinion: Easy 9.90's if you don't care about street driving. I would say all you need is a big enough solid roller cam, at least .650 net lift, the rest of your parts will turn way over 7000 rpm, I wouldn't change gears if it is a toy/drag car. Light car with minimal front area does not need that much power to run in the 9's Just make sure you buy a good valve springs, good cam, and at least a 4500 stall converter. I would use the TH400 because they are cheap and don't break, but wouldn't a gasser be more fun with a M-22?
More great advise, thanks. What type of oil pan would you guys go with. I was thinking a deep sump 7 or 8 qt. pan.
With your ride height, I assume that a deep pan won't hit the ground. On my first bbc drag car I had a stock type pan with no tray or scraper, above 6000 rpm the oil pressure fluctuated really bad (measured at the front of the block on the bottom left) erratically going from 60 down to 10 and back to 60. I cut the bottom out of the pan and added a 3 inch sump plus ported the rear main cap, and welded on a 3/4 suction tube. Probably overkill, but the setup held 50 psi up to 7000 rpm and didn't cost much, so I was happy... Note: I never liked the cheapo tiny plastic tube that come with mechanical gauges, when I installed a 1/4 ID hose from the block to the gauge was the first time I noticed the drop in pressure at high rpm, the tiny plastic line hide the problem.
what is all the talk about too much rpm ??? this is a race only small block where are all the racers???comments have the heads flow checked/then get a cam that is best for these heads too much cam is a waste/will slow you down..........
On the pan. Like the reasons already stated by twinturbo496, the deaper the better to get the oil away from the crank(modify your existing pan if your on the budget) not so much about extra oil. Get a rear main cap baffle also to keep the oil from climbing on the launch. Until you get a cam picked, everything else is a guess. If you can afford it go solid roller.
early corvette hp 6qt pn#359942 keep it simple this was used on hp corvettes w/o ps has a great baffle system built in gm engineering........
edelbrock says that your manifold will not work with 87&later gm cast iron heads........ what year are your heads??? have not found out why this is/can someone tell me the difference
Vince, if you want to bring the pan to Famoso this weekend we can leave it in the trailer for the trip back to Indy and I will make a deep well and baffle for you. Roo
Thanks for the offer Roo, thats very nice of you , but I have one on order. Looking forward to this weekend. Have a safe flight out here.
Just curios to what your goal is for the car. Do you have a number to run in mind or a budget to stick to? You can do a pump gas build and get you into the high 11's low 12's.
if i remember correctly the angle on the center intake bolts changed about this time. then after these heads the ports changed on the vortec style.
I did some checking and called a friend with the same set up. He said the intake and heads work fine. They are race/ off road heads based off the older style pre-87 heads.
I want to run in D/Gas, that's a 10.60 index. I think with the right roller cam and converter I shouldn't have a problem running the number. The car is not going to be street driven. The car ran 10's back in the 70's with a 327 sbc, duel carbs and a powerglide with the same 4.86 gears. That came from the guys who ran it back then.
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