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T5 Tranny question.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lorax54, Mar 15, 2010.

  1. I've put everything back together and it is still no good. The trans bolts up flush now but the disk is wedging itself on the splines. I guess I'll try to lengthen the splines next. How much movement do I need out of the clutch disk for smoothe operation?
     
  2. rob lee
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,331

    rob lee
    Member
    from omaha,ne

    The disk it self does not move very much,when the pressure plate lifts it only moves a little to allow the disk to spin. I would guess a1/2 inch or so extra on the splines ? Hope this helps man , later Rob
     
  3. Thanks Rob. I did a little grinding on the splines tonight (kinda spooky.) I gained about 1/2" of movement so I think I'll try and bolt it up again. Thanks for the help guys.
     
  4. synthsis
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,899

    synthsis
    Member

    picked up my T5 today. Hopefully I'll be able to get started in the next couple weeks after I read, reread, then reread again exactly what to do so I don't ruin all my stuff.
     
  5. OK, I'm getting closer, but I have more questions.

    I am using a diaphragm- type pressure plate. Should the throwout bearing rest against the fingers of the plate? (is it ok, rather?). I ask because I have two different throwout bearings and they are dramatically different in length. The one I have installed now can slide about 3/4" before it touches the fingers. That's not right is it? I'll go take a pic for clarification.
     
  6. mastadon
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 168

    mastadon
    Member

    Hamilton intakes makes the spacer plate for this.I just put a T-5 behind my 235 (truck bellhousing) check em out.
     
  7. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    First, make sure you have the disk installed properly.

    The disk only needs to have maybe 1/32" of daylight between it and the flywheel to ensure that it will disengage.

    When everything is adjusted properly, the throwout bearing should have about 1/16" of daylight between it and the fingers of the pressure plate.

    Removal of the input shaft or bearing retainer isn't necessary to shorten. If you have a grinder with a cutoff wheel AND a steady hand, you can do it. There is a seal inside the collar to keep anything from getting into the transmission.

    You can take a little off the backside of the clutch disc hub to gain some clearance also.
    I have an 11 ga. steel spacer for $25 that can give you a little more space if you need it. for the Chevy bolt pattern, not the Ford...

    The Hamilton spacer can also be used (without shortening anything), but you will definitely be paying more. It's all about time vs. money...
     
  8. THE SHOP
    Joined: Oct 30, 2007
    Posts: 116

    THE SHOP
    Member

    Hello, I am new to ths thread, but found it because I have a 54 chevy stepvan pictured <-, and it has a 235 with an original stump puller 4 spd manual ******. I can build almost anything automotive, but clutches and manual ******s, and some engine stuff is like another language to me. Any-who, my thing is this. I took my ****** out today to put in a new clutch I bought from NAPA. Its a whole kit with all the things I need to replace all clutch stuff. Anyway, clutch didn't work/ fit. Mine is 11" in diameter, while new one is 10.5", and nothing else lined up either (pressure plate, holes or whatever). I read this thread like twice but do seem to have a decent case of A.D.D. so couldn't grasp what info I was looking for. The 235 I have in my 54 chevy stepvan is definitely the early engine style (bell housing), and it will not bolt up to a th400 likeI wish it would. Does this mean it should bolt up to an s10 t5 ****** if I get the right year s10 trans?? My gearign is so low, probably 4:56, and I will be swapping rear end to newer auto rear end soon for highway gearing, but since I can't find clutch I need, I am certainly interested in putting a 5 speed manual trans in instead. I read all that I could and am certainly confused as to which trans will fit in my situation exactly so I can ask my transmission buddy next door to my shop to set me up sumthin quick!!! Can you guys take what I am saying in consideration, and give me the break down on what I should start with? I am guessing I'll have to shorten driveshaft (no prob), new trans mount (easy), t5 bolts right up? shorten tip of input shaft about 3/8"? shorten bearing retainer about 1"? What clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate will I need to buy to make this all work? Once again sorry for making you guys explain again, I'm just in need of a personal breakdown for my ride and I'm lost, but super interested to go buy everything I need tomorrow! THX
     

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