Desoto hemi 276 ticking sound

I need some help diagnosing a problem. I went for a hard ride in the hills, came home, shut her off. I go back the next day to change the oil. I started it up to warm up the oil a little and I hear a loud ticking noise coming from the p***enger side of the engine. Also, I see oil shooting out the oil cannister onto the exhaust.

My guess was the Desoto was a little low on oil and a valve wasn't getting properly oiled up. I changed the oil and filter, and started it back up. The cannister is still leaking from the bolt. The cork(?)washer looks really bad. I plan on getting a Hot Head Hemi oil filter kit to replace it. But the ticking noise is still there. I'm not the best at diagnosing sounds. Anybody have any idea? here's a video, ignore the loud belt sound (wrong belt).

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have you tried holding a piece of broom handle to your ear and touching different parts of the engine?, my first thought would be an exhaust leak, and any parts store should have a washer for that bolt, should of came with the new filter anyway.

 

I've never heard of this technique, hah.
The filters always come with the big rubber washer to seal the cannister. But the smaller washer behind the spring loaded bolt is what's bad (it looks like). I'm not really worried about the oil leak, since I'm ditching the cannister system.

Does the sound seem like a miss? Now I'm concerned it might be a bent valve.
Sounds similar to this guy, and his was 2 bent exhaust valves.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OP4fsJ_zEag

 

Sounds like an exhaust leak to me. Lippy

 

so here is my 276 sitting in my office waiting its turn in the sun, if you can, slide your hand down under the exhaust manifold and feel for exhaust blowing out, dont burn yourself to much, a little blister or two you can show off as battle scars..lol

 

Yup, a broomstick will work, or a long screwdriver (don't put the pointy end in your ear...) I like to use a piece of vacuum tubing so I can go around corners. Also, when chasing an exhaust leak, you only need to get close to the source to hear it.
If the noise is under the valve cover it will be easily found since those are very big echo chambers.

.

 

Ok just got in from checking it out. Took tire off. I had a 3' piece of pvc pipe, so I listened, and it's coming from half way down the manifold. I put my hand around it and sprayed some carb cleaner and felt/saw nothing. No cracks, no breezes. I looked underneath and saw nothing. But is there a missing stud on the manifold?

 

Chasing a noise can be tricky and the sound quality of a video clip probably won't make things easier. But I'll agree that it does sound like an exhaust leak. Is there a change in the noise if the engine's cold or hot? Have you tried retorqueing the manifold bolts?

I noticed the red fan blades. Is this a stock or aftermarket fan? Either way, inspect it closely for cracks, loose blades or other damage.

You mentioned not having the right fan belts. Try running the engine with the belts removed, one at a time if possible, and see if the noise changes. You might also try running it with the fuel pump removed for a short time and see if it might be the source of the noise.

Any more history of the engine itself might be helpful. It looks like a recent rebuild, or was it just resealed and painted?

If this was it's first "hard ride in the hills" on and old original engine it may have a lifter sticking, or something similar. It may "drive out" of it eventually with the oil change, or try adding an oil detergent additive and take it on a trip or two, longer than just puttering around in town in stop and go traffic. You don't need to run it hard as much as get the oil up to full temperature and well circulated.

 

FOUND IT
There is a leak, right where my arrow is in the picture. It's coming from under the lip near the valve cover. I can't tell if it's the valve cover or the exhaust manifold gasket. I don't really know how to approach this, so I guess I'll take it in. I cannot see anything under there, even with a mirror.

Thanks guys.
If you have any tips on how to do this myself I will listen with open ears.

Info on motor:
I've had the car 3 years, cleaned up the top end (carb), painted, but not gone into the guts/valves. Ive driven it a couple 1000 miles by now. I just had a new exhaust put on.

This is as far as I've taken it. It's feeling tired (at take off) and I know it will need some work someday. It's just a money pit desoto and I'm holding out as long as I can.

 

my manifold doesnt have a stud there, i see you have a heat riser valve, did you try holding it open while it was running, they are known to rattle when the spring gets weak.

 

The best short term fix will be to remove the exhaust manifold and after cleaning/inspecting it, install a new gasket. If you find a crack then the manifold should be replaced/repaired.
Your DeSoto looks to be every bit as tight as a 53 Dodge we had in the shop awhile back and getting to the exhaust bolts was a major PITA... it is doable, but still a pain.

Also, when the manifold is off, you should determine if the 'valve' is ready to be removed and the holes plugged.

.

 

Ok, I'll probably take it in. I've just been warned too many times about snapping manifold studs. I don't want to risk it. I have the gaskets, but I don't have a good place to do this kind of surgery (no flat driveway or road). thanks again.

 

Its been 3 years? where the **** does time go? - I might be coming up there for a weekend at the end of may.

 

if you need exhaust manifold(S), pm me ....I have spares

 

Things just got worse. Found a crack and air coming from a different section. I'll see what I can do tomorrow when the wind isn't blowing 100mph.

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You said you just had a new exhaust put on it, check to see if the new system is binding up anywhere, my guess is the old manifolds were already weak and possibly already cracked in a few places and the new system just added to the stress on the manifolds.

It happens.

 

The Stock DeSoto exhaust manifolds are really thin castings, and crack very easy. I went with Sanderson shortys on both of my DeSoto engines, and that cured it...

 

Question: before I tear this apart, is this something I can safely drive around with for another week? I have a thing at a place this coming Friday I'd like to go to before I rip the manifold off and my Desoto is down for a few weeks while I wait for a replacement.

 

Oh yeah you can drive it...I don't know how many street rods out there drive around with leaky exhaust manifolds/headers, etc...

 

S****s is right. Plenty of leaky exhaust systems on the road.
You are not 'likely' in any danger of having a catastrophic failure, but keep an eye/ear on the leak. As was said, take a good hard look at the new plumbing before replacing the manifold. If there is something bound up it could just as easily break the new part... Make sure that everything has room to move around.

.

 

Pics of my spare manifolds...

 

The easiest and safest way to find a ticking exhaust leak is to cut about 3 feet of 3/8 fuel line or a rubber shop air hose. Put one end up to your ear and run the other end around any place that could leak. When you run it past the leak you will know it. I kept a hose like this on every lift in my shop. You effectively move your ear down to the end of the hose where ever you hold it. You can tell if the leak is on the top side or bottom of the flange.

Once a shop air hose got too many repairs in it we cut it up into 3 foot pieces just for that purpose.

If it's ticking it usually is a leak at one cylinder. It ticks every time that cylinder fires. The hose trick works for other exhaust leaks like heat riser ****erflies and their gaskets. Check the end of the ****erfly shaft. Mopars had bushings that would wear out and leak out the side.

 

Ok drove it around a bit and I think I can see the blown gasket. The crack doesn't actually seem to be affecting anything, but the 2 might be related. Anyway give me a week or two to drive around with a leaky manifold and get a replacement, and we'll see how this goes and see what surprises I find.

Thanks everyone

 

i have total faith you can replace your own manifold, your approach, your at***ude, the way you are willing to ask for advice and listened to the responses, you can do this man, those studs look in good shape, clean the exposed threads really well with a wire brush, shoot a little PB blaster on there and i can't see you having much trouble, just dont start putting to much pressure the nuts, just get them moving a little then go back, back and forth slow and easy, so what if it takes awhile, you can do it man!!

 

A guy has 3 ex mans on the HH cl***ifieds.