So....my buddy and I have been talking about a1930 model A body he has, on a 1932 Frame with bobbed fenders and cut down windshield with filled tank. He wants to put a small block in it, and I am trying to pursuade him to "pay through the nose", and put in a hy-po 4 banger. Without getting too wild, what kind of power can be had ut of those Ford 4-bangers, and what kind of longevity can you hope to get out of one, given doing the tricks of the trade. Nothing neater than old school "Go Jobs" with 4 cylinder motors. Anybody have any pictures of recent Hotrods with 4-bangers? I am trying to convince him. Its another one of those "Somedays", and I am trying to get it moved up from his back burner and priority scheme to the present! Nothing too fancy....just something like they would make in the 50's, today! Thanx guys~
You can get about 110 HP for about $ 4000. If you have a few parts like 97's or 48's and can trade for the other add ons. Will pull really well and be more fun.--TV
Try a mercruiser 3.7 for 200+ hp and silly high torque. See other threads : 3.7 Mercruiser and RPU guys ****
For the popper motor: Take a look at H&H; they have a heck of a flyer and have road touring blocks (with balanced and welded crankshafts, and insert bearings) for about 4k. These are their touring motors, and are rated for long use and highway driving. Also, check out Antique Auto Ranch in Spokane Wa if a little closer to stock is your thang. They are participants in several popper reliablility runs and races.
My last modified had an early banger and it was a blast. It did 65-68 all day. So it just matters what he wants. Something that runs like a "****d ape" or something that wil be different and stand out a little. My problem is I want both... lol!
Monthly banger meets here on the HAMB - probably too much info... Ron Kelley gets great performance and reliability from his, typically 60,000 or more between rebuilds with all modern internals. Put a T-5 behind it and you'll have some more gears to play with. Crazydaddyo is making a torque tube adapter for these. Not sure if he's still one-off'ing them or in limited production. As you know, he'll trade "cool" for horsepower with a banger motor.
Here's a "C" motor with all of the good stuff in one spot that I'm selling. Price negotiable, but of course I've already spent a bunch and a lot of the hard stuff is done. I'm on the left coast sort of.
Bill, unknown on both parts. I bought one that had come from Russia back in about '72, and this one looks just like that one. Forged factory counterbalances that are straight up and down, ie. they don't hang over the rod area with material like some I've seen.
OK. I will quit lurking. I'm the guy being discussed. The engines I have that may find their way into this 1930 roadster on deuce rails are: 351w, 289, 427FE, or 1946 flathead. With those choices on hand, I'm really not interested in going with a 4 banger. Here is the real fun: The 351w and 427 are currently on engine stands. The '46 flathead (all stock except conversion to 1940 distributor) is in a '40 coupe I am inheriting (see my avatar). The 289 is in my '64 Fairlane semi-daily driver. The 427 may someday find its way into the Fairlane for some Thunderbolt-esque fun. The 289 or 351w could then go in the '40, leaving me with the flathead or other SBF for the roadster. Yes, there are lots of "maybes" and "coulds" in here. As always, available time and money are the only constraints.
Mac, I think Dan Eubanks, (626) 337-4004, makes "C" cranks (with the usual disclaimer, yes I know the only domestic Model C Ford was made in 1903). Charlie Stephens
Considering the fact that a strong flat head 4 banger of 60-75hp if you have someone build it will set you back $4,000.00+ and $3,000.00+ more with an overhead conversion there are less expensive ways to get way more reliable hp and still have a simple looking 4 banger under the hood. I have a flat head H&H that is going in my 1929 Tudor with a T5 for roadability. This is the car that I will keep for the Temecula Valley A's events. But my other cars will get the Mercruisers that I previously mentioned in this thread. I can put them together with a T-5 for less than $3,000.00 and they will provide 200+ reliable hp. The reason that I selected this engine is that they are big torque thumpers that can be installed with a minimum of plumbing. They use a simple reliable distributor and carburator and can be installed with a stealth Powermaster alternator. This gives me the opportunity to open the hood to show the uninformed viewer that that it is indeed only a simple 4 cylinder car. I will probably paint the engine Model A Green. This engine along with a T5 transmission and other modifications 4 bar transverse I-beam front end with F-1 drum brakes and Ranger rearend with coilovers all painted in simigloss black sitting under a full fendered stock body will look right. Brightly painted 16" Kelsey Hayes wheels will go on it with blackwall radials. And by keeping the the car off of the dirt the whole car will look as stock as possible and it will go like spit. I like hot cars that don't look like hot rods. Before the kids were building Rice Burners I built a 1976 Honda Accord Hatchback with a Prelude 12 valve engine and Nitros that would dust my Sons 87 Saleen Mustang. That car had bondo in the doors, no grill, primer in spots and looked like junk. I think I had more fun with that car than my son had with his Saleen and my car didn't get stolen like his did. I do like the modified A's and B's and will have fun with them, but for speed and reliability the Big block 4 cylinder Mercruiser modified to go in a car is the cheep ticket for a 4 banger. If asked I can always answer well the engine is actually a Mercury engine. Or I did put in an overhead valve conversion. ****
I'm sorry 8bbl427. I sort of jumped ahead and didn't see your last post regarding what you have on hand. Naturally those engines are going to be your first options. Have fun with your 30 roadster. ****
No sweat dawford. While I don't plan on going with a 4-banger, it has still been neat to learn a little about them. Come to think of it, I did sketch up a '27 T track roadster back in 1997 powered by a 4-banger. My thought was very non-HAMB friendly, but still fun. It was going to use the drivetrain out of a Honda S2000. Plan was to make it unibody style with the seats being structural. Ultimate goal was to have a hot 4-cyl '27 track T that weighed less than 1500 pounds. I will have to dig out those old sketches, scan and upload them just for grins.
TV, I have to ask, what's the magic formula for getting 110 hp for 4K? We are building a couple A and B motors right now, the most powerful one we probably might get 80 hp out of if we're lucky, and that's with an Alexander OHV head that we have 3K alone in. And are you getting 110 reliable hp? That much power in one of those can't be that streetable, no? What are your secrets? Thanks. Cris
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