Electrical problems on the 67?

I'm not to smooth on the electrical so I hope I can get some help. I think I may have problems with my regulator.

Tonight after I got home I turned the car off and everthing shut off except the radio and the Generator light. I****umed I had a problem with my ignition switch but after diconnecting it I still had power to the radio and the Gen. light.

While disconnecting and connecting the battery I could hear the regulator click. One of the contacts in there is makeing when the battery is connected. I'm not sure how it is supposed to work but I kinda figured that it should'nt make till the key was in the on position.

My generator has 3 wires. Red from the battery and a blue and black comeing out the other side going back to the regulator. When these are disconnected the contact opens.I checked the back of the generator and the tab that connects the blue wire is hot and the black is not.

My question is, is my regulator working properly or should the contact be open till the key is turned on?

I am posting a schematic from my GM manual. The pic only has 2 wires from the generator but everthing else is exactly like mine.The contact that is making at all times is the one on the upper left side under where is says shunt winding.

Any help would be appreciated.

The Austin Drags have cursed me. I had electrical problems last year when I was there and now with only a week to go theis problem pops up out of the blue.

 

sounds like points stuck in regulator to me.change it.....

 

Regulator will probably be my cheapest place to start.Was planning on getting one today unless someone else has any other ideas.

Points are not physically stuck but they are stuck closed only when battery is connected.

 

its ok if you need to back out.

i would say just replace it, i am sure they are cheap

 

rplaced the regulator. Light and radio is off now. The contact still makes when the battery is hooked up. Is this normal. Car cranked a few times. Then it was dead.

Got it cranked and let it run for a while. Seemed like no problems. Came out an hour later and it still cranked. Turned off and tried to restart and there battery went to nothing.

Now it seem like there is a terrible drain on the battery somewhere. Car is dead. Won't even crank with the charger on it.

Any ideaS on where to start looking.

 

do you have a ballast resister on there? maybe coil?

 

Whats weird is now when you hook the battery up the contacts are not together. Car turned overfine and cranked several times. Then next crank it just acts like its drained.I'm wondering if something is shorted in the starter now.

I hope the race is still on Hudson.No one is posting to help me out. Except choprods.Next time I'll ask what is the flatest flat black and which shade of red should my steeleies be.

 

i like to use the krylon cherry pie red for the wheels...and the rustoleum ultra punk flat black for the car.im still trying to figure out what an alternator is.

 

I'm not great with the electrical stuff either, but when I am trying to find a drain I check the amps it is pulling and try to determine what parts on the car could possibly pull that much if left on. Then I start either pulling fuses disconnecting things and see when it drops off, then I know what circuit it is on. I'll look around for more info, If I find any I'll post it.

 

Since the contacts on the regulator are now open till the car is on it just makes me think something was shorted somwhere knocking the reulator out. Everthing at this point seems fine but if there is a short it's comeing back if I don't find it.Problems like that just don't go away and stay gone.


Kartbreaker, you better just get back to hacksawing your exhaust off a few inches before you hook someone with it. Or add a few inches for the ultimate Death Rod.

 

Check all the fuses. I had a 69 chevelle in the shop recently and the gen lite stayed on. It ended up being the fuse for the guage(or warning lite) power.

That wagon has the glass fuses so check them all good. Sometimes they will look good but are corroded at the end on the inside.

Also try and pull the radio fuse. You might have some kind of short to ground and it's causing a backfeed situation.

Another thing to check is the bulkhead plug at the fire wall. It plugs into the back of the fuse p[anel and is prone to corrodeing also and could be causing a short.

If the key is off and things are still on, something is feeding the circit, usually a short.

Wish there was more I could do without actually being there.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Roadstar. I've had problems before at the plug at the firewall. That seems OK.Fuses are good. Like I said above, at this moment everything seems fine.

Once the regulator was replaced the items staying on disappeared. The Gen. Light staying on when the key was off makes me beleive it shorted against a hot wire. Contacts on regulator staying closed after the light was off makes me think there is still a short keeping power on the regulator.Right now that problem has stopped. Thanks for the items to check.

 

hey did you repolorize the gen,when you changed the regulator. you have to each time.you cahange one or the other. the three wires are hot,field, and ground. to polorize the system,have key on use a small wire striped on both ends and you wanna touch the batt hot post on the regulator to the field post on the reg. you hold it there for 2-3 seconds, you should hear a ping,like guitar string pluck. the system should be polarized,check your charge guage.the unpolorized system some times can create a open circuit in the gen. case which gets its hot either from the constant hot side of the switch,gauge, or straight from the battery. if all this is done, its not rare in the world of*****py big name autoparts house to get a bum regulator.ac declo seems to hold up the best.as far as charger on battery and still not startin quite possible a power surge went from the gen(bad bearin,armature,etc,in gen) and popped your reg, along with the battery, and killin a cell or two in the battery. try changin battery, and while car runnin pull positive cable on battery, if car turns off you know problem is quickly in the chargin system. i deal with sort headache every day, ask buzzard he had the same problem a few months back. if you need any help feel free to call me 210 651 3244, im at the shop till 1am-2am every nite, i'll be glad to****ist.

 

Thanks Sideburns. My car actually has a alternator. Does that make a difference in needing to polorize it. All my wireing diagrams say Generator thats the reason I kept typing that in the above post.I was reading as I was typing.
The charging system seems to be charging O.K.

Also after reading my old manual it suggest not makeing any connections without disconnecting battery to avoid reversing the polarity on a Delcotron regulator and generator.It also said not to polarize it by jumping across the terminals but I'm up for anything to make it work.

Since you deal with these things daily I'm up for giving it a try. If I get to Austin and get stranded I may just get the tow truck to leave it with you and get you to fix me up.Electrical stresses me out.I'll give you a call if I need too. Thanks.

 

the temp exhaust is gone now...and its a def rod....because its oh so dope.word up.watch out now.