Projects How do you mount fenders to calipers

I need to know how to mount fibergl*** fenders or steel fenders to the front of my 27 t-bucket. I have the Drop spinals With disc calipers. How do I make the mounts. Are the different ways to do this.

 

Yes.

 

awesome contribution. haha. I'm not much better since I don't really have an answer.

 

Hi much. Always saw the "cycle" style fenders mounted to the backing plates of a drum braking system, almost always using three long, narrow brackets. I never considered how to mount to a disc brake system. But...seems it'd be basically the same approach. Maybe not mounted to the caliper itself...probably the spindle. Use the existing caliper mounting bolts...possibly modified with a short threaded extension welded onto the head of the bolt. There are two of those...the top one can be the mounting-point for your middle bracket, the bottom one for your rear bracket. I can't see the pic clearly enough to determine...it looks as though there may be another one at the front of the spindle? Use that for the front bracket, or drill and tap for a new one. All fender-mount brackets of this sort were custom-made for the application. When modifying the mounting bolts, you might consider adding a small plate to the heads of the bolts and then the threaded extension. That will allow you not to have the hole in the mounting-bracket right at the end of the bracket...more stability...which these types of fenders seem to always lack. Good luck.

 

try researching this car


http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/fs-black-widow.html

It's got drums but I'd guess use the spindle bolts?

 

How do you mount fenders to calipers

Well you don't mount them to the calipers. Caliper are supposed to move. You don't want the fenders to move.

It will depend on the spindle used. There should be some bolt holes for caliper mounts or possibly a factory dust/water shield.

Cycle fenders are difficult to mount strong enough to keep them from flexing and flapping in the wind at highway speeds. Simple band iron straps are usually not enough unless they are engineered well. Small diameter tubing is often used for a stiffer mount. The Aussie HAMBers will be more familiar with them. We used to see a lot of Penn. hotrods with them before they lightened up on their fender laws.
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Attach them to the caliper bracket / spindle.

 

Couple of good photos here, you'll have to zoom in a little...
http://www.kansas.com/2009/10/15/1013260/rare-coupe.html

X2 on mounting them to the spindle, not the caliper. The round tubing is a good idea as well. I'd use some fairly heavy wall chrome-moly for the added stiffness...

 

But it would be awesome if you did, be sure to post a YouTube video of the first test drive.

 

use strap steel or tube, use the caliper mounting bolt(on the spindle) bend the strap steel to clear the rim and sidewall and over the tyre tread the cycle card will mount to this.

It's a bit difficult to see in this pic I borrowed but the mounts are taken off the upright or spindle, the caliper mounting bolts are sometimes used the bracket being mounted inboard of the caliper. This may help you otherwise check out one of the many kit car build forums on the web, I suspect you may need to klook at the Lotus / Caterham seven, Westfield SE, Robin Hood, Lo cost, type of car all very similar in design and build. Very easy to fabricate i made a set in an evening. Good luck!

 

I used the spindle mounting bolts to hold the brackets.

Then built a rail over the tire set at the right clearance.

I made my fenders from a '36 Ford spare tire cover.


The whole build is in the tech archives ( I think )

Flatman

 

I though that I would try something like this. Sandwich 18 guage steel sheet metal between the spinal mount. Then and cut the sheet metal to the half diameter, or same profile as the fender. Punch in some air holes or cut out something like spokes and mount the fender to the outer rim of the metal. Can you dig it?

 

I like this.

 

Calipers don't move, rotors move!
JimV

 

Calipers move also. They need to "float" in the caliper bracket.

 

IIRC, only half of the caliper moves (otherwise, they couldn't adjust) - but, I've been wrong before.

 

Sorry I don't have a better photo , but this might help ....

 

You gave me a great photo thank you. I am having garage envy. :?)

 

Get yourself ~10-12 ft of .625 dia x 1/8th DOM tubing. ~$40.
Then get some 3/16" (or 1/4") x 2" wide steel plate. There are typ. three holes on the spindle that will support the 3/16" thick mounts, with the continuous hoop of the tube, bent around the outside dia of the spindle flange. The rear tube extension will go back, bend slightly inward to clear the tire, then bend out and flat across the tread width.
The forward/upward tube end will have the same tire-width jog offset, and perhaps bend slightly rearward (say: 1 PM) or straight upward, depending upon tire coverage desired. Bend it out at 90 degrees, and you'll be ready to fit the fenders. BTW, .625 x 1/8th DOM is very stiff, yet will bend w/a large conduit bender, and or heat!

 

better go check on that. calipers do move/slide....sorry to burst your bubble

Yes, unless they are a fixed mount with pistons on BOTH sides of the calipers.

Nope wrong again.

floating caliper



fixed

 

I have made another sketch. Sheetmetal and heavy strap riveted to the sheet metal. It rains a lot in here and sheetmetal will help with the side wash. I like the strap mounts that I have seen. I like the look of lots of rivets. What do you hammers think of this sketch. Is it do able ? workable? I have given thought to closing in the outside as well. Just for affect.

 

i'm, running wilwoods on mine & they'd probably "float" better in the creek then they would on my car!
But i think what was meant was mounting the fender supports on the caliper brackets
JimV

 

Willwoods dont float. Alot of people make that mistake with them.

 

Any brace that is not tube, will crack in time. if you can sketch out, or model the brackets w/aluminum fence wire or similar, you'll come up with a sound approach.
What you've sketched are called wheel pants in the aviation world I believe.
It's the braces that will give you trouble, esp. sharp edged flat bar.

 

Bolting cycle fenders onto a T bucket aside, when I started reading this thread I kept waiting for someone to start busting his balls about his Drop spinals like the
"deth wobbel" guy was for some eight pages worth a couple of days ago.

 

I used 1/2"x1 1/4 flat bar,ground it to an oval shape.Round edges don't crack so easy,I do alot of gravel/dirt road miles and no troubles yet,Nearly 3yrs + on these mounts so far.Ali guards also, so not much weight.
Hope this helps.

 

Since you've asked for opinions, here's mine. Enclosed fenders, especially if you skirt the outside, will look really "heavy" on a T bucket. Seems to go against the light feel of a T. I think you'll also have a hard time making an enclosed inner skirt, and the bracketry, look good. The point of an open wheeled car is, well, open wheels. Keep the fenders hugging the tread of the tire.

I used hex bar stock, which looks kinda different, and flat stock, to make the brackets. Heavy, but stout and so far, after a summer of use, no problems with breaking (aside from one tack weld which I somehow missed finishing on a rear one ). I had the advantage of being able to use not only the steering arm mounts, but the wheel cyl. mount as well at the top for vibration control. Your mounts will be a little more challenging.

Brian

 

It did help. thanks Can I see the rear side, that is if you have a photo. If not is there a mounting point I can not see?

 

Brian, I agree there is a good school of thought that is The open wheel roadster. I enjoy an open wheelers look and style. My project is to enclose the car more to my needs of driving. I plan to drive it as often as possible. I live with rain.

 

Brian, do you have your Ford's build posted?
Your fender construction is very helpful.