I have been thinking of building a gl*** 32 3 window and am overwhelmed with the available bodies that are out there. The adverti*****ts all say that they are the best and the strongest compared to the compe***ion. I have heard very good about the Redneck and Wescott bodies and mixed reviews about the rest. Am also looking at the Rus Nomore for the affordability but looking for honest opinions. Thanks !
A HAMBER I met at Round Up had the most beautiful gl*** coupe I've ever seen. I asked him about that and he elaborated on a very painful experience fitting doors, gl***, etc. Cracking paint after the build and so on. I have always had a hatred of gl*** T-buckets because I grew up in the '70s and we always hate the stuff we saw as kids. I have always liked gl*** roadsters because they have a lot of advantage over a steel tub. A gl*** coupe is something I was kinda undecided on, until now. I get the reasons for building one, but I think there are too many down sides. Rigidity is lessened, weight is high, labor is high, value is low, blah blah. For what a friend of mine has in his gl*** roadster, he could have built a steel coupe we saw a few weeks ago. My advice? Wait. Now go do an intro and spend some time contributing to the community. FNGs that drop in for one question really irk me. And it is all about me, you know.
I would rather be without than build a gl*** 32 or 34 coupe. Take your hard earned money and buy real steel. My 2 cents
Can't go wrong with Redneck or Wescott. Stay away from the cheap stuff. I had a 34 from Outlaw that was also very good but don't know if they make a 32. But that being said I am much happier with the Henry Ford steel I running around with now.
If you want a traditional look, be sure to check the body against an actual 32. Many of the manufacturers have very liberal interpretations of what a 32 Ford 3 W actually looks like. The first generations of gl*** molds were actually taken off of real steel cars and were pretty accurate. They have evolved into something completely different with non-movable windshields. etc. etc. The streetrod sites might be more help for the more modern stylized bodies.
Its a tough call, but as mentioned, a Brookville steel body is pretty close in price to Wescott body, which were the nicest plastic bodies I have seen. OR a hamb discount from one of those vendors
I have belonged to allot of motorsports forums and have contributed to many. What really irks me is the FNG's that think they own the screen and need some excuse to vent on the new comers . What is there some critiria parameters or hard knock initiation that new comers have to go through before asking a question ? Get a life and try some curtisy if you want people to participate. Your NOT cool.
I had 2 Ravon 3W cpe bodies, I think there out of buisness now. they were very accurate to original except chopped 2 1/2". they were resonably priced but you had to do a little more detail work than the more expensive bodies. sweat equity. they held up well, 1st one still on road 10 years later 35,000 miles, still looks good. pay $25,000 for a steel body . depends on your budget and your hands on skills, If you are crafty you can save a lot of money, you have to have desire and do something on the car every day, and don't look at the overall project. take one piece of the puzzle and concentrate on it. Don't get discouraged. If you have to pay to get everything done you are better off buying a finished car. Ago <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
i built an outlaw willys for a guy, very good quality. personally, i too, prefer steel, but dont look down on well done gl*** cars, though i dont see one in my future either skull
Russ Nomore builds a high quality body. His molds are very accurate complete with beads in the right places that most manufacturers eliminate to make molding easier. Even better the owner Carl Duke is an absolute genius with fabrication and has come up with much easier and better ways for power windows, hinges, deck lid props, etc. He has designed and has manufactured tons of his own steel parts that solve a ton of problems. He retools molds to make them better and better. His power window kit is absolutely the best in the gl*** market, uses a lazer cut steel plate to mount the power window and door handle with a track built in the door to hold the channel, also keeps the door strength to an industry high. I just visited his shop Tuesday and was impressed with what they can do. I have owned several gl*** cars and have learned a ton in the process and am impressed with his. I am currently building a steel 35 Flatback Sedan and will be having some of the work done at his shop. Give him a call 318-249-2576, he won't lead you wrong.
I have no qualms about using a quality fibergl*** body. I have a Minotti 33 3window that has been on the road for ten years and has no cracks anywhere. The doors hang the same as when I first got the body. I am very happy with it. Would I trade it for a steel body? I dunno. I like the idea of never having to worry about rust bubbles, ever.
I built and still have an outlaw '34 and it is an excellent piece! Im not sure if they make a '32 though. I can NOT stand it when people bash plastic or fibergl*** cars. Im proud of mine. It's not H.A.M.B friendly but it's done, I built it, and I owe nothing on it.
Hello 57g***er!! I fully understand your feeling expressed in post #11. Ask a simple question and some of the replies are from folks who thump their chests to show you how they would do it. But, most of them haven't done much, if anything. Ask what time it is and some will start telling you how to build a wris****ch. Here's the deal......There are a lot of well made fibergl*** components, bodies and so on. There are also some pretty poorly built ones. The best advice I can give it to ask ONLY those who have built something similar. Montana? Hmm, a bit barren maybe compared to a more populated state, but look through the search here, find all the threads that apply and send the owners a private message. Ask about, fit, overall quality, necessary modifications to make it work. Befriend them. Contrary to what you may feel about some here, there are a ton of folks willing to help. Just my opinion, worth what you paid for it, but I've been building since 1959. I do have some perspective on this. This is not really a rant, just a bit miffed at the way some of the replies are worded. I'll bet they'd come across as really nice guys if you were speak with them in person. Now do do your research!! (smiling)
Give BeBops a try. They make some really nice bodies and have 3 different 32's. http://bebops-gl***works.com
I'm not the easiest guy to get along with but what I don't like is gl*** bodies that say fibergl*** from 50 feet. When I see a chopped 3 window with a glued in windshield I ***ume it's gl***. When I see a chopped 5 window with rain gutters that belong on a 3w, I ***ume its gl***. No rib on the cowl at the hood where the hood meets the cowl with a filled roof, fibergl***. Add the above to hidden hinges, a molded firewall that will clear anything, and door handles with keys in them and I probably won't even look at your car but then you didn't have to put up with me either.
Couple of my friends have Russ Nomore bodies and they are very satisfied. My 32 roadster body came from Show Me Rod and Custom and I am very satisfied as well. If I could have afforded a steel 32 body that is what I would have built. But real and reproduction steel 32s are to expensive for most of us. So, for me it was simply a matter of gl*** or p*** on hot rodding.
Very true ... A Wescott 3W is the closest thing ( in fibergl*** ) to a real 32 3W. Painted and finished ... it is very difficult to tell whether it is a fibergl*** car or a Henry Ford 3W. I own a Henry 32 3W ( above ) ... but I have to look real close to detect a Wescott from the Henry version. Unfortunately, the Wescott ( which is the BEST fibergl*** body IMHO ) ... is the most expensive ( 20 grand ). Brookville ( steel ) is only 5 grand more 5 grand is NOT chicken feed ... but I do believe that the more expensive Wescott and Brookville's purchase cost ... is worth it ... even when it comes time to sell.
I don't hate 'gl*** cars. I've seen some I would own (for a while). The problem I have with them is that they are so minty fresh and perfect. They have no mojo or seniority. They have no stories to tell. I LIKE a few rust bubbles. I like an old plated axle with the chrome peeling. I like rust pits and old welding corrections on the frame. If I have to explain why steel is cooler, you won't understand.
You can really narrow down your choices by eliminating bodies that don't have options you want. do a lot of sole searching first. ie traditional hinges, accurate duplication around the windshield. Cowl vent. etc. Many don't offer it. Choice is yours. I have a Wescott Phaeton body and have compared it to an older Gibbons and feel the Wescott is superior. my 2 cents.
You can try New age Motorsports??? I saw one from them up at Carlisle a couple years ago and it was heavy duty. You could close the door and have it latch with one finger. Looked very well built.
I have a couple gl*** 32's----dont have a real steel one. Wish I did..........My point is: If you look for the very best gl***, you might as well spend the extra money and go with steel---a good(or relatively so) original is by far the best choice with the Brookville body a distant second. So-- why do I have two gl*** 32's? I gave 2 grand for the 5 window(Kilbourne) and 3 for the roadster(not sure of make).
I JUST purchased a '32 Tudor from Deuce Customs in Australia. I didn't have a lot of choices for a sedan though (Outlaw was the only other one, and I don't like their ribbed roof). I haven't gotten it yet, but I have been told that they are some of the "strongest, best fitting, best built, etc., etc." I also like their's because they have an all steel structure, no wood. PLUS, they aren't as expensive as they look at first, the prices are all in Australian dollars which nets about a 7-10% discount in the end. They will customize too. I got extra 2" of chop, suicide doors and modified wheel tubs. Check them out! I believe they are/were used by Boyd's, Socal and some others. Don
I have a wescott and have no problems with it all. Redneck and kilbourne also make good bodys. Just be cautious there is a lot of junk out there too.
Thanks for all of your valued opinions ! I have to realize these cars are all in the eye of the beholder. To each his own. This would be my opinion of a real Henry if I had one the way I want a 32 to look in my garage. I wouldn't want to chop or alter a real steel 32 ,whether it be a Brookville or a real Henry. The affordability of one that is already done doesn't exist. Yes there are some gl*** cars that look like gl*** period . If I wanted a 32 to look like a stock original 32 I would definitly look for a steel one. I believe most of the poularity of the 32-34 coupes has been because people could alter them into rods that were fun to drive and look at. There are a few who like them bone stock and to each his own. But I personally like the chopped no fender look and the gl*** cars look great and apparently will stand the test of time. After all allot of people live eat and sleep corvettes and what are they made of ? No one wishes they were steel do they ? I talked with Doug White at ShowMe Rod and Custom about his gl*** cars today and he seems like he knows what makes a good car. Very informative and curtious. JMHO
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