finished tacking up my 4link nd bags to my shoebox

i left the rear with the 3" blocks on it, then i mocked up the 4link off of that. i'll use that as my normal drive height. i didn't want to slam it, so it will just go down to the bump stops.



i'll take the blocks off another day, remove the leaf springs and see if everything works out, then i'll finish welding stuff in place. then on to the front...much respect to you car guys, i made a motorcycle a year ago and decided i wanted to try my hand at a car. wow! much harder, but still fun as hell. it takes an hour just to get to the part you wanna start working on! oh well, if i could work all day i would but life and a day job..you know.

 

Are you not afraid to have problems with the angel down on the upper bars on the rearaxle hausing.
It's better to have them not angled so they aline with the front end.
With your set up when the rearaxle is moving it will rotate the bars

/Stefan

 

i think the angle of the frame in the pics makes them look like they are angled down, but they are at 0deg. i moved the car up and down and everything seems to function...we'll see when i take the leafs off.

 

I mean this that the bar must parlell in the ends like this pic



/Stefan

 

Torsion function!

 

You should notch the frame man. You will regret it later if you dont do it now. Its never low enough. You are always want to go down.

 

What he said. I have seen so many people not put the notch in then have to go back and redo it later.

Looks good though. I can't wait to do mine.

 

Third that. From the pics its hard to tell, but you want the instant center around, or slightly below the front bumper. Good luck.

 

Basically what he is saying,is the end bungs should be horizontally flat. Basically they should be level.

 

Maybe dumb question, if he doesn't tighten the nuts on the 4-link bars won't the screw and un screw themselves enough to compensate for torsional twist?

 

ahh, i see what you guys mean by having the bungs being parallel. that makes sense, i bet the bushings will wear out a lot faster the way i have it now. I have moved it up and down, and didn't see any wierd movement in the bar, or binding, but again, it does make sense what you are saying. i'll probably fix that. i'll just alter the mounts on the ax so it levels off.

as for the notch, i'll look at it when i get the leafs off and see what it looks like. i'm thinking skirts might give it a lower appearence without notching it.
oh well, can't do anything today, it's mothers day so...yhea, i better not.

 

yes for a time, then it galls the threads and failure becomes emminent.

 

Uhm, unless one side is reverse thread I really don't think it will unscrew. The threads are for adjustment, and I think that means taking the end of the link out of the bracket and unscrewing it, then sticking it back in the bracket. Still, one should tighten any loose nut... just saying.

 

Thats big problem you were out the treads and you have a failure

 

aside from what other have said, when you take the leafs off jack up the rear end so that the axel is on the bump stops or the frame where ever you want the lowest position to be, then with the bags fully compressed mount the upper bag mounts

 

Put heim ends on one end of your upper links and you will solve your problem. Otherwise, nicely done. It doesn't require overkill to do a good job.

 

this is why i love the hamb. i'm learning as i go, and don't really have anyone to help me out other than the internet.
thanks for all the good info. i definately want to do it right.

 

Go for the notch before its to late,it happened to me.There is never a concept of to low.Once bitten by that bug your hooked.

 

damn, you might be right about that. i'll have to sleep on it.

 

Scottys right, use heim ends on one end. I use them with mis-alignment spacers.

Later, Mark