California black plate restoration

I have my plates restored and they are ready to paint.
I was wondering if anybody knows the proper colors as well as application techniques for the letters, numbers, and the word "California".
This is probably one of those times where I can think of half a dozen ways that the yellow lettering could have been done, none of which are the correct one.
Any insight is always greatly appreciated.
Peace

 

Send a PM to oldpl8s. He restores plates.

 

I've done a few sets before. Silkscreening works very well. You tape off the low parts of the plate after your base color is completely dry, anywhere around the letters and numbers. Then you use a blank screen (no image burned on it) and drag the paint across the screen the same way as if silkscreening a shirt. Having the paint the consistency of silkscreen ink helps and you can drag the paint several times to get the required coverage, especially if you are putting a light color over a dark one. Makes it look more 'factory' than any other method I've seen.

 

I did my plates on my F100, satin black and 1-shot sunrise yellow. My yellow is a little 'vivid', not quite correct. A motorcycle policeman remarked about 'em: "Now, there's a plate I can read!"
I thought I was sunk...I told him "Yeah, they were real faded...I rubbed 'em out and waxed 'em."

 

I am digging the silkscreen idea. As I had figured, that was a method that did not cross my mind... .
How did they originally do it back in prison? (If that is actually where they were really made). I don't picture them taking the time to tape off letters...
How did the satin black come out? To my knowledge, there are four levels of sheen. Flat, satin, semi gloss and gloss. I think that different brands also vary a bit. Anyone tried Eastwood under hood black? I know that that paint is super durable.

It's all this little stuff that you learn along the way that makes car projects so fun!
Good to know that the cops were mellow about it. It seems to me that as both you and your car age the attitude of the cops changes from suspicion, to tolerance and occasionally to acceptance. They are saving their suspicious glares for primered rice burners...

 

I used testors gloss yellow, and I masked off the letters. It came out nice. I saw some lady at the swap meet making customized novelty license plates and she was using a roller to paint the letters and it was coming out good. I assume you could get them at the art store..

 

I did a set of plates using laquer. I sprayed the entire plate the color of the letters, then sprayed the entire plate the background color. I then used a sanding block and sanded through the background color on the letters until the letters showed through and I had a nice clean edge around the letters. It's a bit of work but came out excellant.

 

that's how I would do it.

 

Sweet! I'm on my way to the hobby store for paint.
Thanks for the input.
peace

 

Seems like they'd be too skinny that way- the color of the letters rolls over the edge a bit...

 

when I sanded them down, the yellow was on top of the black...

 

I went here: http://www.fontspace.com/dave-hansen/license-plate
Got the license plate font and made a paint mask on my vinyl plotter/cutter. If you don't have access, just print them on paper and cut with an exacto knife to make your own stencil or mask. I painted the plate yellow, put the letters/numbers over the raised letter/numbers, painted the black, removed the mask and done. Cheap and easy.

 

The roller process was interesting, little paint in layers.

The silk screen thing was of interest. You could probably mask the plate off enough, but with those home kits, you could make a screen of the plate with that stuff so it hits the right areas.

The other idea was to use that protective mask that is used for those flame kits, or for masking off for multiple layers of paint.

I would like to see somone post pics of the various methods and how they came out.

 

i did all mine the way 31Apickup described, i used automotive acrylic enamel. after it was cured wet sanded through the letters/numbers and then clear coated. the first one is before the clear coat and the other 2 are done with spray can, which i have to redo with auto paint.

 

Not sure how the 'cons' did it. The cool thing about silkscreening is, you don't have to tape off the letters, as in the edges, and you don't burn a screen. Make sure your screen is drum tight, tape the low spots so the screen can't touch, and screed the paint across the screen. Of course, you have to 'load' the paint onto the screen first, before you lay the plate down. Then make several passes. The super-fine woven pattern of the screen will make a very nice finished edge on the edges of the high spots (letters and numbers), kind of a factory look. The paint comes out smooth, no sanding marks or brush strokes (which look like crap). Then you can clearcoat if you like.

I've worked at a sign shop for 10 years now and I learned this from our head painter. We use this method on all of our raised-letter interior signs.

Of course, you would want to experiment on some other plates before you do the real thing. Paint thickness is a big part of it. Hope this helps.

 

This is how I do them:
Bead blast, body work, primer, number and letter color, clear coat, plate color, block sand, final clear coat.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience!
I was wondering about the screening options...all the yellow paint on the original plate was swept in one direction, suggesting screening. I used to have a screen laying around and threw it away during a house cleaning frenzy...
Taping off the low spots is a great tip...thanks!
Would I need a screening paint slider thingy (I am obviously well versed in screening lingo) or could I use a squeegee or bondo spreader?
Would I need screening "ink" or would Testor's model paint work?

 

Here's mine.
I sprayed the plates with the black base color, and used Testors gloss yellow for the letters & numbers. I masked of the large digits with fine line plastic tape. It makes sharp bends & stretches so it wont kink & fold over.
Next, I brushed the yellow on a little thick. I let it dry overnight & wet sanded the yellow to level out the brush marks. I did this about three times, to get the yellow smooth & consistent.
After I was happy with the large characters, I freehanded the California with a super small model brush I got at the hobby store. I let it dry overnight again, and lightly scuffed the whole plate with a brown scuff pad. Last, I sprayed a semi gloss clear over the entire plate.

I tried the rubber roller route first, but I couldn't get the paint the right consistency. It would either flow over the edges, or not get enough paint at all.

 

Neat stuff. Not sure I would have the patience to do the mask and brush thing.

The roller idea makes the most sense to me. The fixed roller, as the printer us, never really entered my head on that one.

You have some nice work there none the less! (all of you)

 

I have watched a restorer paint the plate. Let the paint dry. Then paint the numbers with a very small foam roller. Works like a charm.

 

Falkonizer,

I live just down the road in Tustin. If you would like me to do them for you hit me back.

I can do it original style, Black base with hand painted letters, or black base, yellow with clear coat.

It will take a couple of days to turn around.

Patrick 714 875 3216

 

$$$???

 

I charge $75 an hour. If the plates are striped and ready to shoot primer and the black base, then hand letter with one shot, it should take me 2-2 1/2 hours. If they need to be clearcoated, not original, add an extra hour.

If the plates have been straightend with a ball peen hammer, and have 50 years of patina on them, it could take considerably longer.

I'm super anal about things being perfect. A nice paint job won't cover up bad prep.

It all depends on the plates current condition and how nice your interpretation of restored is.

 

I know all this was on the how-too section of this site but for the life of me I could not find a suggestion as to removing the mo/yr tags. Yes I would like to save the little buggers and not tear them up with a gasket scraper.

question part two. the yellow on the yellow on black cal plates, the testors yellow the best match? is theres someway to find the origional cal color/mix?

ok so I'm off to try this, what can go wrong? plan on using the sand-down -to-the-letter method. Then whould you buff b4 clearcoating?

 

I just bought some "1 Shot Lettering Enamel" from Art Supply Warehouse (lemon yellow which seemed to be a better match than the Testors, and a 1"wide roller. $8.99 for a 4 Oz can. The plates are already shot with satin black. I will probably tape it off to be safe, but depending on how it goes with control, I may not need to do this on future plates. I'll take some pics of the process...
peace

 

I wouldn't. buffing would make it too smooth for the clear to grab and the buffing compound would probably also interfere.
I would probably lightly scuff with a fine Scotchbrite pad. I don't think I am going to clear-coat mine. The originals weren't...

 

First off, Testors is model paint... for toys! It's not meant to be outside in the sun.

I haven't tried to clear over it, but I would imagine any good polyurethane clear will attack and wrinkle the paint.

The best paint would be One-Shot sign painters enamel. Either Chrome Yellow (looks like a school bus) or, Lemon Yellow (it's a little lighter and more transparent so it may take few coats. If you want to clear over it, you need to add a hardener.

If you're gonna hand letter: I would use a brown squirrel lettering brush so you don't get brush strokes. Wait until the first coat is dry before you reapply.

If you're gonna use a roller: Get a extremely low "nap" made for enamel/solvent based paints. The low nap will allow you to just get the tops of the letters/numbers without leaving a texture. But, like I stated earlier it must be "solvent" friendly roller or it will deteriorate and make a mess of your plates.

I've never tried the silkscreen method, even though I have much experience screening shirts and signs. If you don't know anything about silk screening I wouldn't suggest you attempt this method.

In regards to matching the color, unless the plate you are trying to match too has been stored away in a dark place for the last 50 or 60 years then it is most likely faded.

Tags can be removed with Goof-Off adhesive solvent/remover. You get a corner started and then squirt the Goof-Off onto the back of the tag. It will soften the adhesive and allow you remove the tag. You have to work fast as it evaporates quickly. An extra hand would help. Be careful as the tags are prone to stretching and then snapping!

 

Any good quality buffing compound (3M, Maguires Pro series) can be painted over without problems. Problem is not al paints can be buffed!

Just so you'll understand, I use to work in the motion picture industry and have made hundreds of "fake" plates for the movies and commercials. I know what I'm doing on this one...

 

Great info Stroupedesigns! Thanks man . I'll make sure to test the roller first!

 

It seems like it. Thanks for sharing...
...and your knowledge is greatly appreciated.