I have my mind set on what paint I want to go with for my truck, Hot Rod Flatz O.D Green, Which is Urethane paint. My question is regarding my primer options and what is better and why? This is my first adventure in painting anything automotive so I know very little. First option is 2k High Build Iso-free Primer which is $99.95 for a gallon kit- primer and hardner.. Then there is 2k urethane primer which is $104.95 for a gallon kit-primer and hardner...Then they have laqurer,polyester and Epoxy primer kits around the same price range..What would be a good option for the kind of paint I'll be using, my lack of skills as a painter and ease of use?... I know that I could call TCP global's tech line to get some answers but I figured I would ask you guys first to get your opinion- They sell the damn stuff I figure they will just try to sell me the most expensive stuff. Any input and info you could provide would be much appreciated......JOSH
Another quick question, I have estimated that I would need roughly 2 Gallons of paint for my truck. Will I need more or less primer. I'm not going after a show quality looking paint. Just something that I can be proud of and that looks respectable.
hows the paint now? when it comes to flat jobs if the paint im going over is fine. i just 320 da and tough areas a red scotchbrite over the finish and throw a flat paint right over. my theory is they are a temporary job. so u dont have to go to extreme measure to prep them. not saying u skip sanding. but other paint guys no what i mean as a flat paint job is more forgiving on bodywork and prep. as for primer... if u have large baremetal spots... use epoxy. if its already primered or bodyworked the go ahead and use the 2k iso free primer they have.
Hey, Unless you're talking a serious paint job, as Sik pointed out, I wouldn't spend good money on preminum primer! Look at PCL and perhaps PPGs Omni or Limco for their "also ran'' brands of primer. These shop brands of paint materials don't have the ''snob appeal" of big named paint materials, but they also don't have the price. Be sure you have a good spray mask and the correct filters for the paint materials you'll be shooting. Unlike the old lacquer and enamel based finishes ,today's epoxy and urethane finishes pose some serious health problems if you arn't prepared! " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
I will second the epoxy over bare metal. Epoxy primer is super sticky and extra tough. I also think it makes a great sealer. The only thing is that if you have mucho bodywork then it is not as great a filler primer as dedicated filler primers. If you need to overall prime the body, shot the epoxy then go back with the filler primer over your bodyworked areas to fill in sanding scratches and other low spots. When you are done in those areas then just shoot a little more epoxy there. For use purely as a sealer I have found that epoxy can be thinned about 10% for a really smooth finish. I have used this company's products and rate them highly, http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/.
ive been using northstar and u can go as far as 1 to 1 to 1 as a sealer if need be. but i like it in the 1 to 1 to 1/2-3/4 range.
So lets see if I have this right from what I have read from the replies.....I have sanded variouse areas of my truck down to bare metal casue thats were I knew body work was needed to be done. I had to make patch areas here and there and I also had to replace both cab corners, I also filled the stake pockets and I also filled the tiny holes were molding and the badges were...I sanded down those areas with 120 grit with my D.A. The rest of the areas have been untouched...From what I'm getting from your replies is I need to scuff up the rest of the paint with perferably 320 grit on my D.A, shoot the whole truck in epoxy primer, go back over the areas were bodywork was done with the 2k High Build Iso-free Primer,and then re-shoot those areas with more epoxy primer? Does that sound about right?.............The reason I was going with The Kustom Shop Brand of primer is because Like I said before body work is totally new to me, there product seems pretty strait forward when it come to the mixing,im getting my paint from them so I figured why not. I have no clue what Sic means when he said "1 to 1 to 1 as a sealer". He mines as well be speaking another language. I wouldn't even know what to ask for if I went into my local auto paint supply store..It seem easier to just buy the paint and primer from the same place at the same time..If you guys had a 59 chevy fleetside long bed truck, how much Primer would you buy. Seems like I need more epoxy than 2k High Build Iso-free Primer. Maybe a gallon and a half of epoxy and half a gallon of the high build? I really dont know. I know I threw alot out there but I'm a novice who really would appreciate a little help. Thanks again for the replies. JOSH
Hey Dp primer from ppg is good stuff. If you DA the car then shoot 2 coats of dp, it comes in many colors to match your paint. Then 20 min after no sanding you can shoot your top coat. fast and comes out ok for the time you spend. You can shoot k-36, a high build primer over the dp after 20 min and then wet sand the k-36 to get a smoother finish if you like. all depends on what your trying to do. I think Dp comes in a green primer, you could leave it like that? Just a thought. Hard to realy know what to tell you without doing it myself. Good luck.
all i can say is if you are wanting to go with a flat paint job but you want it show quality......im missing something..if you want o.d. green than just have you 2k primer tinted to that and prime,sand,prime,sand,etc till it looks straight then prime again.ther you go!!!!one gallon of primer goes along way.there is no reason to buy more the one gallon of primer for your truck {including"top coat"}if you need more than that then you started primming your truck WAY TOO EARLY!!!!!!
epoxy primer doesnt like to be block sanded. it doesnt sluff off like a urethane will, and it will globb up your paper, doesnt much matter how long its been curing, it still does this...if you intend to use epoxy, use it under, but put a urethane over it if youre going to have to block sand it to smooth bobbles out. most of your high build primers are going to be urethanes any more.
American Opel your not missing something,I said Im NOT going for a show quality paint job, Just something that I can be proud of and that looks respectable. Now then I think The last two post have confused me more. I would like to block sand the primer just to smooth things out and have a decent looking paint job..How about this, I'll finish scuffing the rest of the paint with 320 and my D.A,spray the truck with epoxy cause I do have bare spots here,there,and every were from the filling of holes, patching this and that, after I spray the epoxy I'll finish it of with a fresh coat of 2k High Build Iso-free Primer to help with some of the low spots and also so I can block sand it a bit smooth...Does that sound like a decent plan?<!-- / message -->
sound right to me.as long as you dont go through the exoxy sealer when you are doing the rest ot the body work.
ELDANGEROSO, so far you really seem to have a handle on the recommendations particularly the ones I offered. Contrary to what was mentioned, I was able to block sand epoxy primer. Perhaps you don't know what that means since you have stated you are new to body work. Block sanding is using long sanding boards to level out the body surfaces using the filling properties of primer to sand off the high spots and leave primer in the low spots. Additionally, you expressed some confusion about primer types. Here goes a mini-lesson: self-etching primer-used over bare metal. Has acid added to etch into the metal for best adhesion. Epoxy is an exception because it is naturally sticky and doesn't seem to need the acid to adhere to bare metal. filler primer-used to fill in low spots of body work and panel waviness plus sanding scratches as well. Typically has more solids than other primers for it's filling properties. Sands extremely well as mentioned above, sluffs(sp) off very well. primer sealer-used to seal out whatever is underneath it from paint that is applied over it. For instance, sealer can be used to seal out bodywork from the final paint to ensure an even finish in color and texture. The reason I have suggested using epoxy primer is that it can be both a self-etching primer and a sealer. When you expressed confusion about the 1:1 ratio being for a sealer application sik_kreations was referring to the ration of primer to catalyst. Typically the catalyst is thinner than the primer so the more you add, the thinner the final primer mixture is. A thinner primer makes for a very smooth sealer. Got it? The Southern Polyurethanes epoxy I use it mixed at a 1:1 ratio. Check out what the Kustom Shop's paint is mixed at and by all means, CALL THEM! Your supplier is there to help you decide what product to use and how to use it. I hope I helped clear things up for you and feel free to PM me if you have more questions or problems. My name is Triggerman because I like to pull the trigger on those guns.
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