ok folks since I've got the frame slid out from under the 50' I am going to tackle the dakota front clip graft but also swap in a ford 8.8 from a mustang. I also am going to use the stock mustang suspension. my questions are will the controll arms stay in the right geometry while unbolted from the car allowing for mock up, and if not what is a good way to keep them in the right angles? also has anyone run this setup is it worth it? the car will eventually sit on hydraulics or air bags. so what do y'all think?
It has no adjustment available at all so it needs to be dead on. I wouldn't trust the rubber bushed arms to remain in perfect alignment either. I would set the rear axle into exact position under the perfectly leveled frame (it should replicate the final ride height and rake you intend for the car) and then carefully create the frame mounts for the arms to replicate the positioning as it was in the Mustang...right down to arm angle from all directions and paying careful attention to the frame centerline as it relates to the side to side positioning of the axle. You'll need to do some measuring on the donor car before you remove the rearend so that you can set the arm angle at normal ride height etc. It's all common sense stuff, but its easy to miss something as you do it so just be careful and measure three times before you turn on the welder.
No,they won't .They'll move all over . You need to keep the geometry the same . You can get a good ch***is diagram from your local Ford dealer . It will have exact positions of all points . If you do it correctly,the suspension will work the same as it did in the rustang . Too slow, what he said^^^^
I was figuring they wouldn't stay. but hoping otherwise. I'm hoping to convince the junk man to let me cut out the *** end of the car to keep the mounts as they were but hes probobally going to want more for that part. anyone have any take on how this setup will work with air / hydraulics? I'm not looking to hop or do anything crazy with the car just want to be able to drop the car to sit on the frame. thanks again
I think those rear suspension setups from mustangs have a really short arm length. The long travel of an air ride or hydraulics might cause some issue with pinion angle and stuff.Ive only been under my buddy's newer mach 1. They have those weird bushing in the rear end control arms. as i recall they are really really short. all depends on where its mounted in the 50
Don't be too afraid of it , it aint rocket science. With the trailing ams still bolted to the rear,position the rearend under the car. Take your time, be precise.Read the ch***is diagram that you're going to go to the dealership and get. Build front mounts for trailing arms as needed. You don't need the chunk of Rustang floors,you'll just end up taking it back to the s****per. Airbags are just another way to hold a car up , it will work fine. Forget hydraulics.
Good point. Obviously, you will have the same suspension limits as the 'stang because of the arc created by the bars. It will have enough travel for normal use , not for the hydraulic ****.
not scared... just cautious I want this to be done right. and since this is my first adventure in frame / suspension mods I would like to know everything I can potential pit falls yadda yadda yadda.. thanks folks again
while its out I would recommend getting after market upper and lower control arms the stock ones are very week/twist and Leeds to wheel hop(99 and up actual have quad shocks to help w/ this)Mustang with a few bolt-ons get over the power limit to twist the cotrol arms.If your at 600 you really should consider going this.Steeda`s are cheep those are arround 100 for the lower`s,you can get BBK`s for under 200 for upper and lower,these are box style control arms alot stronger,you will be glad you did it,look on ebay there all over the place on there.Summit Racing also carries them.Before I got my 48 Ive owned had one foxbody 5.0 gt, two 95 gt`s one 95 cobra sn95,and one 01gt nitrous car/cams sn97 etc..I have a lot of time behind these so called "rust-tangs" Over 400,000 miles all combined.If you need any info on where to find other parts for the rear pm me...They have adjustable upper and lowers wich may help you in your set up if going to hydraulic`s or bags--good luck
I love Mustangs, but for airbags I'd use simple Truck arms...focused to the trans output. Actually...I'd most likely use Truck arms anyway, period. Simple, reliable, easy to set up. With bags you can get more lift/drop from them without doing funky things to your wheel positioning. NOT a parallel 2 link...truck arms, like under the 60's Chevy pickups.
The Jalopy Journal
