My 1950 flathead starts up and runs after running for a while it stops and there is no fuel coming from fuel line to carb.the pump fuel bowl fills then takes time for fuel to goto carb. how can it run fine then just stop ? makes no sense anyone seen this before?
Sounds like the pump just cant keep up. How old is the pump? It might just be time to replace it. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Make sure all the fuel line from the pump to the card are clean.make sure your carbs are clean as well any crap in the carbs will block the carbs ability to work..
Are there any flexible fuel lines on the firewall that may have softened and clogged the line? Stuck needle valve in carb? Does gas come out of the fuel pump outlet if you disconnect it from the carb and crank the engine? Is the rubber diaphragam in the fuel pump cracked or have a small hole in it? Is you fuel pump push rod the correct length?
I think i solved the problem I had put a copper line on from fuel pump to carb which i ordered thinking it was correct size. inside dia. is real tiny not sure of size but its small. so i got out the ford green book out for 1950 ford, it passed all the tests except for capasicy seems there was not enough volume cause my dumb ass put on a restrictive fuel line.
yeah that was it. it was driving me nuts just could not understand how it could run then stop like that oh well .
i would bet that the fuel pump rod is worn even though you replaced the fuel line with a smaller line and it runs fine now, but i would still take the rod out and measure it, it's suppose to be 10-1/16" mine was worn over 1/4" i couldnt believe it! my brothers was worn about an 1/8" MAC's sells em new for 15 bucks. my car now starts right up after sitting for days, before i had to crank and crank and crank.
you might win that bet. I took the car out for a spin once i hit 3rd gear that was it started to sputter and run out of gas. I had to crank it a few times to get gas flowing i think there is not enough volume of fuel coming out manual says it should fill 1 pint in less then a min. no way this is doing that. seems to have enough fuel to idle but not under load in 3rd gear. maybe it is rod cheaper then new pump.
Probably the rod. Symptoms sound like it's worn. A cheap and easy part to replace, but most guys don't change out the rod when they change out the pump.
Switch to an Electric Fuel Pump with a regulator. From what I have heard, the fuel pump is always the weak link.
i replaced the fuel pump push rod and still no fuel when you get on the motor. only other options is bad pump or cam lobe is worn that fuel pump runs off of. it still does not fill a pint in less then a min.
I ran a 'lectric pump on the Peter Beater. Get one and a regulator. Set it to the proper psi and ferget about it! I ran the lines through a junk mech. pump so noone knew the difference.
Yep. When the key is 'on' the pump is on. Idiot proof and easy. Make sure you fuse it, though. Fire suck monkey balls.
Take a look at the flex line between the steel fuel line on the firewall and the stock fuel pump. If it's bad you'll be sucking air instead of fuel. If and when you put an electric fuel pump on your car, be sure to use a low pressure in-line fuel pump. They are easy to install and quite quiet. Most people put 'em in the fuel line below the driver's side floor. If you install an electric pump, be sure to replace the flex line that connects the steel fuel line on the firewall to the stock fuel pump! When you install the electric fuel pump this line changes from a suction line to a pressure line. It can be quite porous in the suction mode and you might never notice, but once pressurized, even a tiny pinhole in this line will spray a fine mist of fuel all over the engine compartment. It's a big fire just waiting to happen. Ask me how I know this.
i'm really think the pump is bad i didn't want to go electric but i hate not driving. the one test this pump is not passing is the capacity test there is just not enough fuel pumping out.
The old backwoods fix for a worn pushrod was a 1/4 inch nut in the cup on the arm where pushrod fits in. Try that and see if that helps ,if it does get a new pushrod.
Well at that point make sure you are not sucking air in somewhere and if OK there sounds like the pump is bad.
Just for your own satisfaction remove the pump and take it apart to check the diapfragm for cracks, etc. BE SURE TO MAKE A FILE MARK ON BOTH HALVES OF THE PUMP SO YOU CAN "CLOCK IT" AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER USING THE ALIGNING MARKS YOU FILED.
ok where should it line up it had been apart before for clearance problems on another set up so which way should it be set.
The "Clocking" will have no effect on the operation of the pump. That just refers to having the connections lining up correctly for a stock set up.
Just line the top and bottom up so it's easy to hook up the inlet and outlet fuel lines and room for the glass fuel bowl if you have one.
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