I've got an offy intake to go on my 235. The carb studs are 2 15/16" center to center. I've got a chance to get some gl*** bowl holleys which would be way cooler than the Rochester B's I've got now. The holley bases are 2 11/16" center to center. Any way to make this work? Thanks in advance for the help and thanks for this place!
Shouldn't the stud spacing be 2 15/16"? Either way, if the intake hole in the intake matches up in size the base of the carb, couldn't you slot the base of the carb? Or cut, weld, redrill and tap the intake. I could be missing something BIG, since I only a rookie at this car business.
It might be 2 15/16". I just took a quick measurement. It's definately not 2 3/4" though. I didn't think of slotting the base of the carb. I've always just gotten the correct carbs. But the gl*** bowls would be super cool if they'll work. I think slotting the bases would probably work. Anybody got any info on that angle?
My son ran three of those little Holleys on his 6 cylinder Mustang 300 cuin engine. Ate the SBC alive. When he would tell them they just got beat by a 6, he'd charge $10 to open the hood. Course, it had a lot of other improvements.
If the ****erflies will work in the hole spacing, The fix is simple. Thread some aluminum rod and screw it into the existing flange holes with some epoxy. Fit the carbs where they need to be, center punch , drill and tap new holes.
Would it be easier to just elongate the holes in the base of the carbs? Or is there a problem with that I don't see? And thanks again!
Those carbs you have are for a 216 Chevy engine. I would not use them on a 235 because they are not designed for the 235. I always see someone selling intakes and/or carbs for the Chevy 6 and listing them as " for a 216/235/261". Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. The 216 has smaller intake ports and a smaller carb. 235 and 261 share the same intake with larger ports and a larger carb. So by putting a 216 carb on a 235/261, you are actually "choking" the motor plus it's mickey mouse.
I "think" the carbs are from a ford 215/223 6. If they'd work, I'd be using two of them on my 235. I have two Rochester B's that I got to use with the offy twin pot intake. I just always thought the gl*** bowl holleys are so much cooler than regular old rochesters. And if I could make them work, all the better. If not, I'll hold onto them for something else. So what's the cfm for a Rochester B? And what's the cfm for the Holley 1904 (I think that's the right number?)? Are the ****erflies the same size? I don't even know, but I'm going to get them anyway because they're CHEAP and I'll use them one day or get them to somebody who will use them on something cool!
This is an interesting reply. Most of the "back in the day" books, ie California Bills, etc, say to USE the smaller carbs, if you're using multiples, not the larger Powerglide carbs. Obviously, if you're using one, you'd want to stay with the bigger, but I wonder what the rationale was? Maybe the stock cam couldn't flow the air as well with 2 "Powerglide" carbs? Hmmm. JK
Thanks again guys for all the info. I just got the carbs along with two vintage gasket sets (not rebuild kits). They're in great shape, everything moves freely. They're both manual choke. I'll ***ume they probably need a kit. That's the first thing I do with any old carb that hasn't run in a while. I'll measure the base and ****erfly and post back to see if I can get some more info from you guys about them. I've become somewhat of a Rochester B/BC expert in the last year or so, but I just don't know much about these holleys except that I like the way they look.
Those are good little carbs that are easy to work on. But! don't get heavy handed when you tighten the screws that hold the bowls on and make sure they are on right before you tighten them up. Every thing I ever read goes toward the thinking of running the smaller carbs in multiple carb setups.
Go ahead and slot the bases. Done it lots of times. Those little Holleys are just about the only Holleys I like! I put them on sixes of all shapes and sizes, Dodge flatheads to 264 IHC's.
I did a quick check and didn't see anything. If you've got a link, I sure would appreciate it! Thanks!
I have made a lot of little adapter plates. I take some aluminum and make a plate to fit. I slot the holes in the plate. I S bend some all thread. Screw in into the intake, put sloted plate over the studs and install carb. I have done carbs and oil filter housings like this. Works fine and nothing cut so you can change back with no problems.
Well, I must be the "someone" you are referring to. How does putting 2 carbs from a 235 dumping twice as much fuel at idle "choke" the motor? It doesnt. it loads up so bad at a red light at idle that you get to push the thing to the curb and wait 10 minutes to try and start it because its drowned out. How do you get any velocity through the venturi to cause the fuel to atomize correctly when you keep the same carb on it? You cant - you screw up the vacuum signal and wonder why the thing wont run correctly except at wide open throttle. there is more to it than just bolting 2 carbs on it and calling it good. Mickey mouse ???? thats your opinion - however wrong it might be you are en***led to it. now, tell us a little about your 235. Photos a plus
For the record, I have 2 Rochester B carbs that are set up for progressive linkage. The one carb has no choke and is set up to only dump fuel at full throttle. The other carb is a normal Rochester B with the automatic choke (which I'll probably change to manual choke). You're right, there is a lot more to it than just bolting on two carbs.
Those little Holleys are great carbs. You know why they discontinued the Gl*** Bowl. When your float stuck, You could only whack them once or twice before you broke it. Now maybe I'm wrong, but I didn't think the throttle opening had much to do with flow. It's the size of the venturi, located higher up in the throat of the carburetor that controls the CFM. Listed CFM for the 1904 is 170. That's a little more than a Stromberg 97.
Thanks a bunch for the info! So, for the holley 1904, 170x3=510 cfm. And the Rochester B, 250x2=500cfm. Pretty much the same. I gather from this that not only will 3 of the holleys look ***s, it'll run ***s too!
slot the bases. I did it to three carter wa-1's on my 1955 235. I went with the smaller carbs because the three leaky rochesters were too much carb. The carters i used were from a 1949 -50 nash statesman, 173cu. Three work great on my set up, and no, it's not micky mouse. It's called hot rodding which is what this forum is all about.
I plug and redrill my intakes for the 216 bolt spacing, but its just a different way to do it. You are right - its hot rodding - looks like ol' jcmarz doesnt know **** about carburetion. nice looking tripower - the other W-1s you can use on a 235 tripower are the little 4 cylinder jeep carbs. they are off an even smaller cid 4 cylinder, but I'll bet the little nash carbs work pretty darn good.
For the record, I ended up getting a triple offy intake with 235 intake port spacing and 216 carb spacing. I will be using three Carter W1 carburetors (574S). I have those too, just need three kits to get them going.
Holley made LOTS of different of the gl*** bowl (1904, 1920) carbs. Check the "LIST" number stamped on the carbs to make sure you are using identical carbs. Turn the carb so you can read the word "HOLLEY" on the bowl. The fuel inlet will be on your left. Read (with a strong gl*** and a pair of "young eyes") the list number stamped on the side of the fuel inlet boss facing you. Jon.
Jon, We spoke about that a while ago. Thanks to your help, I figured out the Holleys weren't matching carbs. Based on your advice and ID help, I found some matching Carter W1's. I'll be needing kits sometime soon. But thanks again for your help!
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