I'm up in Rochester NY now and blew up the spider gears in my rear end trying to be cool. School is over in a few days and I need to drive 400 miles back to Boston. I bought a mini spool for the 9" that I plan to put in this Friday, as a cheap fix to get me home. Then I'll make some money and get a limited slip in there asap. What do I need to know about driving with a locked rear end so I don't die? I figure a lot of the highway driving is pretty straight shot, but I'd like to hear it from you guys on what to stay extra weary about.
Probably won't even know it's there, might push a little and scrub the inner rear tire on a tight slow turn but that's it.
I have pretty much always driven like normal with a spool in the rear end. I have heard some horror stories of using them on the street, but most of these stories also included m*** amounts of stupidity also. I have never noticed any understeer, and usually the inside tire would just "scrub" *** you went around a corner. I tires chirped pretty rarely, usually only on full lock turns. Taking more gradual turns seems to help some with this. As far as tires there are two schools of thought. One is to put more air than normal in the tires to help the inside tire slip around corners easier because it has less contact area with the pavement. The other school of thought is to lower the pressure slightly so the sidewalls can flex taking up some of the bind. Or you could just run at normal pressure instead of listening to the theories of a couple of farm kids with spooled trucks driven on the streets for years on end lol.
Go easy turning when rain showers first start. The only issues I've ever had with spools have been right as it began to rain and the road is at its slickest. You'll hear some chirps with tight turns, corners, or in parking lots but you'll get used to it. And yes, tire pressure matters. At the very least, adding to what's above, make sure both tires are the same pressure.
Do it up and dont worry. I've had a couple on the street and know of plenty of others and never a problem. Plus you can use it as an excuse why you can't parallel park your car.
What's the likelihood that I break an axle? I really doubt it because I'm only running the stock 292 and street tires, but maybe I'm mistaken.
Just drive it, but be careful turning on wet roads because one of the wheels will be forced to spin because of the fact they are locked. I drove a 3600 lb car that ran 12.20's on the street for years with a mini spool and stock 28 spline axles, the only problem was tires squeeling when I made sharp turns into parking spots and stuff like that. The splines were starting to show a little "twist" at the mini spool when I took it all out and upgraded everything but never had a problem, you should be fine.
Like Paulie said, just watch it on wet roads. it may want to step the rear out on you. be ready for it & you will be OK. other than that like a few guys have said, a little chirping & rubbing during slow speed corners but it is easy to live with.
Sorry Is this the gist of it? http://dezertdimes.com/2009/08/ford-9-mini-spool-install/ Thanks for all the advice so far.
I'm NOT a rearend expert...but I've pulled a few 9"ers apart and put them back together. In the article he says he "believes" that a 9" has no preload on the carrier bearings. I think thats incorrect. I figure that with the amount of load the crown gear will see it would be easy for the carrier to deflect, throw the pattern out of line and create a whine if no preload is used. Can some experienced person agree with or correct my thinking on that please!?!? Driving on straight(ish) roads you'll have no problems with the spool. Just be careful in tight turns, especially in the wet. Common sense kinda stuff....
Maybe I am off here, but I would figure that the 9" in the truck probably is shared with quite a few other years and models. If it is a stock '57-60 rear, what would the spline count be and what cars shared the same center? Wouldn't it be easier (ie no having to learn how to rebuild a rearend) to get a center off of something that had a compatible rear. Even if the gearing ****ed, howled like a tom cat, etc. Pop the axles, dump the center, and put it back together again.
It's really not a difficult thing, take your time. There'll even be instructions with the one you buy, most likely.
Plenty of instructions on Yukon Gear as well as others. Carrier bearings do need preload. That's what you are doing when ya tighten them "past hand tight". There is a sequence ya need to use so the backlash stays put. Always measure for backlash before ya take it apart. Then reinstall at the same.
I've had the same mini spool in my car for over 16 years, logged over 20000 miles on it. The only problem (found last year) is one axle is starting to twist (stock 9" 28 spline) Back tires are 15x33x21.5 M/T's As far as preload, yes a 9" requires it. You need 10-15 in lbs of turning torque on the pinion, then with the carrier installed you will want 15-20 in lbs of turning torque in order to get the correct side bearing pre-load. Of course these numbers are for used bearings without a pinion seal. A pinion seal will add about 3 in lbs of turning torque and New bearings will need 15-20 in lbs on the pinion and 20-25 in lbs on the total turning torque. Ok with that out of the way lets walk through setting up a 9" 1st Pinion Pre load Tighten nut until proper turning torque is reached. (see above) NEVER reuse a crush sleeve, unless your just changing a pinion seal on the car. 2nd Side case Pre load. Snug the main caps, not too tight or the adjuster nuts won't turn. To do this tighten the adjuster nut behind the ring gear (sooth side) until you get no back lash (don't over tighten) just rock the ring gear back and forth and when it won't move your there. Then start to tighten the other adjuster nut. Your back lash should start to come back (this is when your getting pre-load) Keep adjusting until you have the proper turning torque (see above) 3rd. Once you achieve the proper turning torque you can move on to backlash. To set backlash loosen up one adjuster nut and tighten the other the same amount. ALWAYS loosen which ever way you want to move the ring gear first. 4th Torque main caps 65 ft lbs, install lock tabs. 5th. Check pinion depth by using gear marking compound. Adjust accordingly.(this is another complicated process, if you need to know just ask) if all your doing is installing a mini spool then this shouldn't change. As a matter of fact you won't even need to remove the pinion at all. 5th crack open a beer and enjoy your new found skill. Always remember to lube the bearing before starting any of this so they turn easier. Hope this helps.
I have a full spool. It does fine on the street. I start to notice it when the one tire gets a little lower. Don't get stupid on the gas going around the corners.
i wouldn't worry about driving with a spool . i have for 26,000 miles on my roadster pick up like one guy said when it first starts raining be causious you only have to remember to let off right be for the turns once your in the turn put it back on . I drove my roadster at pocono at 130mph last year and came out of the corner at over 100mph . this might be weird but i drive it like I stole it and it works for me . oh if you ever need to turn around on a small street just turn the wheel and gas it it will spin right around for you good luck
most of the horror stories you hear are from people who "know this guy " type of thing..ive driven my jeep for years with a detroit in the rear and other than wet roads it never really had any affect...also have one in my 53 ford car.drive it every where.as for swisting axles ..only if your really putting the power to it with good traction... day to day driving wont hurt it...
Considering your lack of expertise in this area, plus all the other "ifs" I'm suggesting following the advice of an earlier poster: Take the minispool back and get your money returned, go to a salvage yard, but a decent 3rd member, install the whole thing as is, fill it with gear lube and quit trying to build/drive a hot rod till you're through with school and employed. Dave
Wow thats a little rough. If he quits where is the future hot rodders at? We have all made mistakes over the years and if you say you haven't your a liar. Trying things you don't know how to do is part of the learning curve of being a hot rodder. ya maybe the spool is a little out of his league but to tell someone to quit until they are out of school or employeed????
You wont enjoy turning to well.I would just throw an open end in there to get you by.Breaking axles might happen .
Dude don't listen to the nahhers dont return it install it. Enjoy it you won't an axle unless ur stupid don't be stupid.
By the way you have a 9" rear my roadster has an 8" and I have done figure 8 burnouts and haven't blown up please don't be scared
I'd say that is the best idea. If your real cheap you could run a Lincoln locker (aka welding) Back before fuel prices got rediculous most of the local(and very cheap) mudboggers would weld up their spider gears solid. Demo Derby folks would do the same thing to get better traction. If you got access to an ARC welder and got some skillz you could try that.
fill it with gear lube and quit trying to build/drive a hot rod till you're through with school and employed. Dave[/QUOTE] Damn! Captain Buzz-Kill. Put the spool in your truck you will be fine. If this is the option you choose just get the rearend back together as close as possible. Your not taking a cross country trip. The spool will act a little different when you power through a turn, but hell you might like the way it acts. 400 miles isn't **** to a rearend just put everything back the way you take it out. You'll be fine. The twisting axle stories happen after years of driving on a spool.
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