I would say from a low of $200 (friend) to a high of $500 if was cleaned up. very good choice for a slightly modified "B". Actually should be an improvement for a stock "B" as that was they were basically designed for. Once it is properly adjusted you should realize more power and fuel economy. And, contrary to an article that C yapp keeps reprinting, the idle screw adjusts the air not the fuel.
I've got connections at Clay Smith Cams, If you have a profile in mind, I might be able to get them to grind it. .
I want to thank 88Daryl88 for pointing me here. Haven't had much time to dedicate to the hobby lately - but you guys' Banger threads are the highlight of the HAMB! When opportunity allows, I hunt these threads down just to keep up with you A-Modelers. In the flathead world, Hudson is the king. The reason being it can utilize a much higher compression than other flatheads while maintaining adequate flow. I haven't gone to the extreme personally, but I have a friend running as high as 12:1 on alcohol with triple sidedraft webers - he is a butt kicker at the strip. Personally, I do run a street Hudson at 8.2 and could probably go on up to 9.75 without issue. The Hudson has alot in common with the WR and KR Harley. I saw the KR posts, too bad the KR came out right at the sunset of flathead developement - it was fantabulous. The pop-up piston helped get the compression up on the Harley by displacing some of the transfer slot space in the head required to increase flow. Flathead Ford V8's use the same technique with the Art Spark's pistons and the Offy 425 head - which is also potent for that engine type. What makes the Hudson so special? The valves are canted toward the cylinder at 7.5 degrees and arranged to be as close to the cylinder's edge as possible. They eliminated the "no mans land" from the valve to the cylinder, which is the real compression robbing characteristic of a flathead. Of course, the lack of meat between the valve and cylinder is the source of the cracks in Hudson's blocks. I've lost alot of the pics I had stored on the internet, but you'll notice in this one picture the rather large individual ports going to the intakes. So far I haven't messed with any pop up piston beyond zero'ing the deck. Hudson heads have shallow combustion chambers compared to other flatheads due to the valve slant and positon near the cylinder. Flow increases come from relieving the block to eliminate the shrouding caused by the valve pocket. At this point none of us Hudson fanatics are sure of how much relief is enough, because no reviewable flow tests exist. Even though I've been messing with flatheads for over a decade now, I'm still learning and humbled by the amount yet to learn. As soon as I think I have an answer, some new piece of the puzzle shows up and I have to re-think things again. Case in point, right now I'm fiddling with timing curves and have found out just how finicky flatheads are and how narrow the spark curves are. The higher the compression, the narrower the curve and more precise its curve points have to be. A function of Ricardo's "turbulence". What we may well be looking at is an inherent efficiency to the flathead in terms of combustion characteristic simply due to this constant "turbulence", hence timing curves well below our OHV cousins. Turbulence may well be our friend in this respect per Larry Widmer's "roller wave" research. Our street Hudson at 8.2 compression is cruising at 19.5 mpg, 60-70 mph with an ancient Carter AFB on it. Wanna go faster, no need to downshift - just mash on the peddle. The amount of torque that old sled puts out has successfully destroyed about every Hudson 3 speed we've had behind it. No wonder most Hornets have Hydramatics behind them! Y'all will have to forgive me as I've regressed into sbc engines a little at present and just haven't had time to get concentrated on anything automotive in a while. I'm using the sbc get a practical understanding of Vizard's low lift characteristics as they do seem to apply to the flathead. The goal is to get practiced up with my Audie FlowQuick then begin getting some real flow numbers on the flatheads. I'm shooting for some real action this summer on the flathead flow. I sure could have used this FlowQuick when I was building flathead Harleys. Since my uncle has restoring his A model -you never know what I may have that Audie plugged into! Hud
There are a lot of modern cam grinds available. I do everything from mild to wild. e-mail me at jimb4e4@gmail.com for more info.
Are the 2 bolts at the 4-bolt mounting flange area? Or are they an inch or so above and off to the side? The bowl bolts to the throttle body via 2 quarter inch bolts. The bowl indicates if it is an up or down-draft. The bowl should be within a half size of the throttle body, in this case, AA; B or BB bowls would be OK.
I think he was referring to the 2 bolts on the 2 to 4 bolt adapter. Actually the AA bowl on a B throttle body would cause a slight loss of top end. Winfield recommended using the next smaller alphabetical series bowl to cure some stumbling problems.
Of possable interest to a few. Here is how I am locating my blowshield to my Dodge Bros. block. Using scrap metal. The block plate is new. The arbor is scrap. I started with a piece left over from a mini stock roll cage and some drops from cutting holes in aluminim plate. Turned the tube and bored the discs for a .005 press fit. pushed them on and then holding it in the three jaw turned the smaller discs ti 2.048 which is.001 larger than my main bearing bore. The larger piece went to 4.199 which is .001 smaller than the hole in the block plate. Of course I did them in one set up so they were true to each other. Now I just clamp it in the block and slide on the plate. This showes me where I will need to add material. Where I can drill through and blot the blow shield and plate to the block and where I need to drill and tap the block. The center hole is used to locate the plate when its made, I guess since this will work to get the blow shield register hole very close to center. I still will indicate the blow shield when it's done, but it will be as close or far as it would have been on the SBF it was made for.
QUOTE=RichFox;5260236]Of possable interest to a few. Rich I love reading your posts so please don't be shy. The work you have to do with your Dodge Bros. stuff is very cool. I have only been playing with the banger stuff for 3 years now. I don't even have to look for the ford stuff it is all over and most can be had cheep. I have never even seen a Dodge Bros. in person so my hat is off to you.
This deal is how I located the blow shield on my Plymouth PB as well as the Lotus 907. And a Chevy blow shield on a 392 and a Nissan. Worked fine. But the Dodge Bros. bolt circle is so large I think I may have to buy a piece of plate, bore the 4.200 hole in the center and use it. I did just buy a plasma cutter. Guess it would be fun to try it out
Well done, It's this kind of knowledge & skill that is rapidly disappearing. Most Auto-electrical work is now just 'parts swapping'.
Hi Hud. Thanks for stopping by, and your input. I had another Birthday on Sat .... bought myself a present. Just what I really need,.. ANOTHER project....but it does, sort of, slip nicely in between the others. Last week I went to a small "local" (600 klm.round-trip) Swap-meet. I found some 'A' Model axles, a drive-shaft and a diff housing all for $10 the lot. For that price I figured I would keep them as spares for the Midget. Talking to the seller, I found that he was a 'A' Model restorer who was moving to Tasmania ( equivalent to say, from Houston to Alaska ). He had already moved 2 of his 3 cars and 30 years worth of collected spares. He still had some stuff that wasn't really worth taking, "Was I interested in a complete front end?" He was bothered (pissed) that his Vintage Club members weren't prepared to pay even scrap prices for the parts, but were waiting 'til he had to leave them behind, "Bloody Vultures". The front end is actually in real good shape, he wanted $100, so I said OK. He then asked what else I needed, I said I only had some odd bits and pieces. He started scratching through his shed, "You'll need this, these are getting harder to find" etc. and so he put together the rest of the pile for another $50. "Twin carb, multi valve" I haven't got an 'A' engine yet, but I looks like I won't be able to avoid it when one turns up. This is a 12Volt V8 starter, he told me that it will fit the 'A' with the front plate and bendix swapped. Any-one confirm this? Numerous 2nd & Top sliding gears and shafts. I will experiment with the "dog box' modification mentioned earlier in the month. ...and enough pedals to keep an octopus busy..
Daryl Quite a score--you did well. An engine,frame and tranny case, and you'll have a non-rolling chassis. I know that some have converted V8 starters to work on fours, but as far as I'm concerned the only advantage is that the pinion is close to the starter bearing, as opposed to out on the end of the shaft on an A-B. I have run stock A-B starters on 12V, with no problems, but if you want to convert them to 12V, just put the two field coils in series--this is what the "12V field conversions" do. Herb
T Head- By putting two caps in parallel you have doubled the total capacitance. Value of magneto capacitors is not as critical as it is with coil ignition, as with coil the polarity of each point does not vary, and if capacitance is off, a pit will form in one point. With a two cylinder mag, the point polarity changes each half revolution. Also (and you probably are aware of this) the outer bearing races must be insulated from the body of the mag. Separable mag bearings are getting harder to get all the time--called progress----- Herb
The other interesting thing is the two carbon brushes that ground the armature. Like you mention they do not want it to ever ground though the bearings. I assume the arcing would damage the balls and also make a poor ground. For the capacitance the total of the two is correct. I tested it and it will run on one but it causes arcing at the points. This way it will keep running hopefully on half until you can replace the bad one.
You know, we so often think of hot rodding as a youth thing, but four of the six civilians in this photo are mature, respectable-looking men examining an otherwise stock-appearing Ford (I dont think the term sleeper existed in the 20s, but if it did...). It makes you think, doesnt it? -Dave
So I'm pretty excited I bought a BB motor and trans this past weekend, looks to be a good one, looking through the breather hole it has counter weights that appear to be integrile, not pressed on, it turns freely and has F3 on the head, also has a big ugly 4 speed trans with a pto output, its gonna make a great project someday.
Are you absolutely sure those are not "young guys"? You are going to blow my self image all to bits!! Isn't that how twenty's something guys dressed back then? I know pics of my Granddad in his twenties at about the same era , looked very similar,and he dressed more or less the same way until he died in in the late 70s.
..At least one of them is a cop, and I have the feeling one or two of the other guys are as well. The young man pointing out the engine is (I assume) the owner, seen here pointing out the changes made and another, younger looking onlooker can be seen standing almost hidden behind everyone at the front of the car wearing a "newsboy" hat and a light colored plaid jacket. With the owners buddy in the passenger seat, my guess is the other older men are cops or something.....they just give off that "nark" vibe.....or perhaps I'm reading into this more than I should
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