Anyone use/shorten a 33 Ford heavy truck frame

I and my dad are putting together a 32-34 full fendered pickup for him.

I originally planned to use a set of 1933 coupe frame rails I got from a used up local drag racer, they need a bunch of TLC, clean up, holes filled and boxed. A good friend suggested using the 1-1/2 ton truck frame that the cab is mounted on now. Torch/Punch out the rivets, moving the K-member back for the C4 trans mount, shorten the rear of the frame and no real need to box the heavier frame. The plan is for a leaf spring rear end, D-100 kit. Has anyone Z'd a commercial frame, anyone got pics?

I may need some extra length in the nose to install the Y-block and leave the 33 firewall uncut. We have 32 pickup front fenders, the bed is an old show car bed that already been shortened some, make our own hood, running boards and use some repop gl*** coupe for rear fenders.

I don't know why I never even considered using the truck frame but if planned out it seems like it would be a lot less work.

 

I had one of those frames and was going to use it in a build but OMG they are VERY heavy, including all the cast fittings etc. In the end, even after cutting the frame short, I went a different way. With your idea, you'd have to move the cab back to get the extra room you want. Maybe a truck load easier building a new frame out of 4x2???? Im sure there has been other builds on here using that frame though. Sorry dont have links to those.

Here is a pic of how mine looked like.



PS Hope you have the doors....

 

PH Pete,

Got the doors, I did make the mistake of getting the cab without doors and it took me years to scrounge a pair up.



I hadn't considered the weight.

I'm going to have to take a longer look at this "plan". The wallets in the room say just fork over the $1000 for a new set of rails and boxing plates and toss the donor frames in the later pile.

 

Any of the Sunday crowd have experience working over a heavy frame?

 

I cut one up for s**** iron last summer, but I saved the front half thinking I might make it work.......but I think it's just too big and heavy. I think it would be better to just build a frame. It's a project I'll never get around to anyway....

 

HAMBer Kisam has a great thread showing how to make one of these frames work on a pickup build. They did a nice job.

Go to--> http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363785

 

Thanks Max, I searched but didn't thick of using "Two gals..

Have you done yours yet?

 

There is a local guy who has one that runs a MII front suspension with bags and no fenders. not HAMB friendly at any rate but outside of the MII the truck looks pretty decent. It's a painted and upholstered rig that he drives the wheels off and has a blast.

Why not? Cut it off a bit behind the cab and build a kicked up rear frame section and you have a solid platform that will handle about anything you throw at it. It might not look 100% like the standard issue hotrod truck and it will be a tad heavier than the normal truck it's size and there would be a few challenges with building it as compared to a "regular" ch***is but what the hell, if you got going on it now you would have a finished ch***is way before you could find a replacement.
Found it.

 

Nope, not yet but I do have quite an itch to get going on it.

 

I don't know why you couldn't run it. There is a guy who posts on here now and then who has a Model A coupe built on an AA truck frame. They're heavy, but not that heavy, I coud drag a complete AA around with a tractor with only two of the wheels rolling on it.

 

<TABLE cl***=tborder id=post3613899 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD cl***=alt1 id=td_post_3613899 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid"> Yes , Heavy Truck frames will work fine but there are some major differences so expect some extra fabrication. Having been thru this in the past year on my 34 pickup , I will list some differences and modifications I made . Pictures of my 1934 " BB " to follow.

Frames are much thicker ( I measured .230" after surface rust ) and 7 inches tall along the center rails. Upper rail " C " is 2 3/4" wide, Lower is 2 7/8" wide. They are very heavy and should not require boxing. I boxed mine for insurance as my engine combo and four speed is sure to add some stress when the loud pedal is depressed. Oh Yea , Did I mention they are heavy !

The Front Leaf Spring on the BB is 2 1/2" wide . I had posies make me a 2" custom spring then slightly modified the Crossmember pocket to fit. The original front axle is way too large to look good. Spindles & Kingpins are also larger .

I used a 1937 Ford car front axle , so stock 37 spindles could be used. I drilled out the 37 axle to accept the BB spring perch pins and made spacers for above the axle as the wishbone fork dimention is larger . Front Wishbone's have a much thicker wall and are bit longer. Weld in bungs for splitting Bones were too small for ends. I narrowed Spring perch pin eyes to match the new spring

The second crossmember at the Engine bellhousing is M***ive and hangs very very low .... Trim or make a new smaller one if additional ground clearance is needed.

I removed about 40 Inches of the straight side rails, Used a portion of them for my kickup in the rear . Stock BB Rear suspension is parallel leaf and way to large for a hot rod ... I back halfed it anyway so no difference to me. Stock cab will fit fine ... I channed mine 5 inches & moved it back a bit so slight mods will be necessary at my cab front edges .

Keep in mind Aftermarket " Bolt On " items like crossmembers , brake pedal mounts ect. would all need modifications when using the larger frame .

Hope this helps .... Here are a few pics of my " BB "
Willysdoctor
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This was said to have been built with the truck frame....

 

Thanks guys,

Here is a link to the thrash week with my dad and what we came up with.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=473875