Headers Made From 30's Driveshaft Torque Tubes. Ugly or cool?

Way cool.

 

Looks cool to me!

 

Thems Cool !!!

 

They are cool!

I made my header from the torque tube off a '27 Chev. The wall thickness on the Chev TT isn't as thick as it is not load bearing like a Ford. The Chev torque tube tapers from 1-1/2" to 2-1/4" wall thickness is 5/32"

 

Torque tubes make awesome pipes.

I really like how they worked the back pipe to keep the flow better then just squishing it on the pics that Jerry posted.

The Chevy torque tube header you got there Jimmy B is great! Dimensionally it seems a little better then the Ford ones.

 

Thumbs up.

 

James427.Nice job!Can't beat home made parts.

Flathead Fever.Jerry,the Dave Mitchell truck is one of my all-time favourites.The headers were the inspiration for the set I built for my truck.I didn't have any driveshafts to hand so I used a lakes header kit and a pair of steel table legs.

Mark.

 

I might as well adopt you and leave you all my stuff . I have no sons and no one else in this house cares about this stuff but me. You guys must watch the Yucaipa obituary's daily. When you see my name in there be at the curb in front of my house on the following Monday, that is trash day and all my stuff will probably be out at the curb. If its not there try trading my wife for something she needs for her "Farmville" on Facebook. She’s upstairs on Farmville all night long and I ‘m down here on the H.A.M.B. no wonder I don’t have any sons to leave my treasures to.

Jerry

 

i think they look good just finsh them up and run them i never thought of using the in drive shaft, as a header defently looks good though

 

Hey James427, I made a set of lakes headers just like yours for my Y-Block. 1 curved tube at the front and 3 straight tubes into the cone. I just wanted to say that mine seem to be sort of restrictive/dont flow well. I believe this is due to the 3 straight tubes causing back pressure. I'm down to 38 jets in the primary 97's on a 6 duece Dragstar and it still smells very heavy. I am starting to think this is due to the cylinders not scavenging properly. I do run a louvered baffle (2 inch I.D.) in the cone but its a straight through type with packing around it like a gl*** pack muffler. I'm also getting a lot of blow-by and I have a Ford PCV system on the motor. Just something I wanted to point out. I'm going to make a new set with all curved tubes and see if there is a noticable difference.

 

I was going to play with them on the T-bucket I'm in the middle of doing an engine swap on. I've got a regular 4bbl, a Tunnel ram dual quad and a 6X2. I've also got a set of regular T-bucket headers. I'll try all possible combos with them and let you know what I see the differences are.

Your doors are pretty sooty in your avatar.

 

You can not create that kind of patina with rattle can paint and Scotch Brite Pads.

 

Lol, thats my point. I think the backpressure is leading to unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

 

Can someone please explain to me the 'inner drive shaft' deal to use. I have a 37 torque tube, but it has no 'inner drive shaft' with tapers on it that i aware of and have never noticed them/it.
I always thought the header are made from the outer, I have one outer cut already but it does seems really thick to use for a header.
You learn something new everyday

 

Give me a minute to hobble down to the shop for a pic of the inner tube. Mine is a 35. I was told 35 by a 32 guy, but I have heard info on hamb about 36 being the same??

Yes the outers are too heavy. Probably been done with those, as well as rear axle tubes including Model A's..they would be fully tapered with no straight section either.

BRB

 

Sorry it's getting dark here..

anyways, if you cut in half, you get 2 pieces roughly 27 to 28 inches long

Where the taper starts AFTER t*******:

11 inch long tapered part with 16 or 17 inch straight section.

 

Thanks F&J, that explains it all. I have never seen one of those type drive shafts before, all the ones I have seen have been straight bar stock with the ends for uni and rear coupler. Now that I am on the right path I need to find me one of these types of drive shafts. They must be from a 32 to 35.
Again, thanks for posting the pics.

 

Tom
the double tapered driveshafts were in 35-36 cars and light trucks
solid ones were pre and post that era
I have 2 of the tapered ones

 

And let me guess,...... you dont want to let either of them go!
I will put a wanted add up on L300-rodders

 

I dunno - what you got?

 

What do you want?
Give me a call!

 

Here's one I made for the Model T. 1 5/8" tubes going into it.
Modified an Empi stinger baffle in it to quiet it down a bit for the neighbors.

 

I just got these from Salt Flat Matt. I'm stoked.

 

He is using the hollow drive shaft with tapered ends cut in half which is inside the torque tube,
35 and 36 Ford ONLY.
And yes they are way traditional and WAAAY Kool!
I think Speedway still offers a header kit which is a good facsimile
since real 35-36 ones are harder to find for most guys.
I have one stashed for future project.