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PAINTERS & FLOW-CHECKS, How long to Sand?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 39 All Ford, May 25, 2010.

  1. stroupedesign
    Joined: May 8, 2010
    Posts: 182

    stroupedesign
    Member
    from Tustin, CA

    If it's ChromaClear (HC-2300s) by Dupont let it dry about 12 to 24 before totally sanding down the run. Like a earlier post I like to take a little off the top so it will cure out properly. Don't get to anxious as sometimes you can actually tear the run off all the way back down to the base! Not good. The tech manual says to wait 24 hours before applying tape or decals. Don't wait too long to buff, as it will take alot more effort to get the shine to come up.
     
  2. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member



    that is what i do as well.....

    you must cut the runs with coarse paper at first or they are'nt coming out. if you think you are getting close to the base, go ahead and spray on some more clear, and then sand agian.

    i prefer also to bust them open and let them sit for a day, sand again and buff if you got the time.

    dont worry about letting it set for to long either, it will only get easier to buff, not harder with dupont clears.

    polishing a run out of urethane clear, and not seeing a shadow later is really an art form, and to do properly its pretty tough. if you can get them out without re-clearing , and no hint that they were there, pat yourself on the back, you got a good skill


    the mentioned tape trick on a wet run is a good tip to remember, used it many times. also the mentioned run files have done the trick before as well





    skull
     
  3. sik_kreations
    Joined: Jul 14, 2008
    Posts: 436

    sik_kreations
    Member


    i think the hardest thing to do in painting and custom painting is fixing fuck ups and mistakes. u dont even want to know how many times ive had to fix bike parts and other parts mid job cuz i dropped a tank, splattered paint on my airbrushing, burned a candy, flung a part all the way across the shop while buffing, mother nature and a slight gust. and then being able to fix them without anyone knowing...sssssshhhhhhhhhhh.:D
     
  4. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    I thought thats why they called it "kustom" painting... :D :D
     
  5. 39 All Ford
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 1,530

    39 All Ford
    Member
    from Benton AR

    I managed to start buffing on the 39 today, I wish I could have read the lat 4 posts first, but oh well.

    Anyway, once I started buffing I found where the runs had been, I managed to stop and sand most of what I found early on out, only to find a couple more right before I left the shop.

    I didn't finish a single panel, but on Monday I will do what I can to make all of my screwups invisible. :D

    Thanks again for all the help.

    [​IMG]

    BEFORE:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  6. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Lookin pretty damn good! If you cut the run with a run blocker first, you dont need to go as coarse to begin with. I cut them with a razor blade and then start with 800 and you'll never find em. I think youll be OK. The shadow you sometimes see is (in your case) the blue underneath the run. You see how there's a line that mimicks the shape of the run? Thats the part that hasnt been sanded due to the height of the run.

    The point is to flatten the run as quickly as possible so that the whole area gets sanded evenly to avoid leaving a shadow.
     
  7. Tinbasher
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 274

    Tinbasher
    Member

    3 Days seems to be the magic number. Before that it's to soft and after that it get harder and harder. I just learn't a neat trick for nasty runs. The long and deep ones. You'll like this one but it works!!

    Coat the area with the runs with a layer of 2 Part putty. Let it dry and sand out the area with 600 wet sandpaper and a block.

    The 2 part putty will support the area on either side of the run and leeps it from cutting through the undamaged paint. Just keep sanding until the area is smooth and the runs are gone. Then step up your papers, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and polish. When your done there is no shadow from the run and the area will be flat and smooth. Plus no cut through.


    Try it you'll like it. I learn't this from a 23 year old apprentice!! Not to old to learn yet.

    The Old Tinbasher
     
  8. sik_kreations
    Joined: Jul 14, 2008
    Posts: 436

    sik_kreations
    Member


    my new card should say.... sik kreations..." we make your ride nice, after i personally fuck it up when it was already done.:D

    come to think of it.... i cant think of a time that i have done something to a job. did one 2day. helped out a buddies shop and re shot a kandy job with kandy and silver flames on a bike set. so i grabbed it to work on it at my shop and i was moving stuff around in my xj and forgot that i put the front fender on the back seat. so i tossed a tow strap from the back to the seat and it chipped a nice chunk out of the green candy. the job was a bitch cause the customer wanted there old flame job. needleess to say this one will have an extra lick in it. lol
     
  9. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Hahahahahahahahaha :D :D :D
     

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