Cowl steering and bump steer

According to the textbooks if you are running parallel control arms on the front of a solid axle front end, the drag link should run parallel to the control arms. If you are running split wishbones or hairpins, the drag link should cross the point where the wishbone or hairpin attaches to the frame. If you don't follow this you will get bump steer.
With cowl steering the steering box and pitman arm is quite high. If you are running parallel control arms it is not difficult to run the drag link parallel to the control arms.
On the other hand I have seen lots of picctures of cowl steering with a wishbone or hair pin set up and the drag link is 6 inches to a foot above the hairpin/wishbone attachment point. It would seem that these cars would have horrible bump steer. Any experience with this type of setup?

 

The arms involved are so long and the amount of suspension movement so slight that bumpsteer, while there on paper, in reality doesn't get a chance to get out of hand.
The wishbones need to be as long as possible (within reason) for it all to work.

 

Aside from the arms being so long that bump steer is minimized, the actual suspension travel on the road is very limited, too. This means you actually only see a fraction of a small amount, unless you have a very severe situation. Get close as you can and carry on.

 

I too study lots of pictures for reference but the articles rarely mention how the car featured actually handles but I have found that if you get the geometery close and add a steering stabilizer to the tie rod of a properly aligned front suspension it will handle fine.

 

Thanks guys. My next project will feature cowl steering and long hairpins.