Got some questions for you guys, bought a '29 roadster from a fellow HAMBer and it has a Miller ohv. conversion on it and a pair of 81 carbs, also a 200r trans. First off what jets, and needle and seat do you use, and is there such a thing as progressive linkage for a 2 carb setup ? Does anyone know the torque and sequence for the Miller head ? And lastly will a T-5 trans. be an easy switch from the 200r ? Thanks
moefuzz... with that avitar... you should change your name to lessfuzz. (How many times have you heard THAT one!? Sam
As you already have the Banger to SBC adapter, you should just be able to use that adapter to bolt up a *8 bellhousing, as far as flywheel and clutch, well I'm usure of the brake setup you are using, and the starter motor, but I''d say it'd have to be a custom made one due to the starter location etc
Stovebolt thank you very much for the response, here's a pic. of the starter and brake setup in the car, I have no idea what the starter is someone at a car show on Saturday thought it was Harley Davidson. Thanks again, Mike
mike i was with flathead looking at it. for the carbs i suggest 035 main jets and 65 pwr valve. dont try to use progressive linkage on 2x2. fuel pressure and float level are very important also. dont like the viton needle and seat i use origional as much as possible. torque head to 55 lbs start in the middle and work out. the auto was kind of a turn off but it looks like a lot of work to change it to a std....good luck
Thanks Jetmek, hope business picked up for you at the show. I'm starting to get the hang of the auto trans. although it is a kind of a turn off for this kind of car. Just got back from a spin around the block, beautiful morning for a roadster ride. I talked with an old timer at the show that is going to help me out with the carbs this week sometime so we'll see how that goes. The one good thing about the trans. is when you get up into OD. that sucker will cruise.
I talked with an old timer at the show that is going to help me out with the carbs this week i have 2 97's on mine with a touch of progression . makes it alot better for town use . i was told to use 35 jets with 71 p/v . let us know how yours works out ... steve
What Jetmek said is right. Make sure the float level is set right. If you are running an electric fuel pump, make sure the pressure at the carb is less then 3 lbs. 2.5 lbs is ideal. Do not use one of those cheap gauges to check the pressure. Do not use the round dial type regulators, they are junk and never hold a consistent pressure at such a low setting. If you are running an electric pump, I like to set the float level with the carb tops off on the engine. Here is how: Take the tops off Draw some fuel out of the float bowl with a syringe or turkey baster. Turn the pump on until the float fills and no more fuel is flowing into the bowl. Turn the pump off. Measure the distance between the top of the float bowl and the top of the fuel. It should be @ 1/2". If it is not, bend the tab on the float that pushes against the needle valve. If it is low bend it away, if it is high bend towards the needle. Test the new level by drawing more fuel out of the bowl and turning on the pump till it fills up. you may have to do this several times. Once you have the levels right, put the tops back on and you are done. It is also very important that the carbs are synced together. While the car is idling, they need to be adjusted so that they are both drawing in the same amount of air. Do this with the linkage disconnected. Use a "Unisync" to set the flow rate so that both carbs are drawing the same amount of air. Then re-attach the linkage and adjust it so that you get back to the same setting on each carb. Once the linkage is on and set, back off the idle screw on one carb so that it is not interfering and check the flow again. If the flow has changed, adjust the linkage untill they are the same. This is the cause of most of the problems most people have with multi stromberg set ups. Here is the torque sequence for the Ford banger: Switching the trany is going to be some work. From what I see in the picture you will need to go back to the stock flywheel and starter. You will need a SBC T-5 bell housing. You will have to determine what clutch and pressure plate to use. And you will have to fab up some kind of clutch pedal and linkage. This looks like your trans adapter set up. http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Model A.htm I hope this helps. P.S. Is this car for sale in the HAMB classifieds? .
The top of my radiator is much lower the a stock model A and I had to rotate the pump to get a better shot at the top tank. The stock outlet from the head is taller then my radiator. I used the 32-36 V-8 pump and adapter because it was the easiest to rotate. .
I like the car very much. That is a T on an A chassis, right? It looks like you have brakes on all four corners. Are they mechanical or are they juice? Either way, you shouldn't have any problem slowing a machine that light. .
It's got a model A motor and axles, '32 tranny case with later gears in T rails with an A front cross member. I set it up with juice brakes but a couple of the wheel cylinders are leakers in need of a rebuild. I'm really curious what it weighs. Anybody want to guess? I'll try to get it on the scales next weekend.
Hey CDO, What type of fuel regulator do you recommend? If not the round dial type. Took mine around the block yesterday and it needs some help. Thanks for posting the ''How to set float level.'' I was just going to search for that. TK
my car weighs about 2400# with full tank & 2 peeps . ill say your about 1700# ... let us know .......................... steve
I weighed mine last week, 1560#, with a full tank, without me in it, I'd say yours is close to the same.
I'll keep my guess to myself for now. There ought to be a prize for the closest guess Fro, cool car. Is this the first pic we've seen of it? Bodger45, if your using "new" Stromberg rebuild kits, read the instructions. There's some info in there about setting the float levels that escapes me right now.
Nope its been on here several times, its got a new motor now .100 over, 5.5 snyders head, b dist, and lightened flywheel, it runs allot better, thanks by the way.
bodger 45 before you start on the carbs just make sure they are level else they will never run right i always do mine on a rolling road for final adjustment
I bought a BB motor and trans last week and I have a few questions, it has F3 on the head, and I cant identify the carb, it doesnt have any markings on it anywhere, and lastly is the gargantuant 4 speed good for anything, I think its a pretty good motor, turns freely and has a 1 peice counterweighted crank,at least as best as I can tell through the breather hole, and it came with a new set of int, exh gaskets. any help on the head and carb would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Jeff.
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