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Spotweld drills

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dna9656, Jun 1, 2010.

  1. dna9656
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 15

    dna9656
    Member

    I'm looking at the Eastwood.com spotweld drills, many to choose from, cheap tp expensive. They offer a set of 5 drills, from 1/4" to 1/2" for about 119.00 see
    Colbalt Spot Weld Cutter kit 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2


    Item #50192.

    http://www.eastwood.com/colbalt-spot-weld-cutter-kit-1-4-5-16-3-8-1-2.html

    This item has a Limited lifetime manufacturer's warranty; and others with no warranty. Does anyone have any experiance with these colbalt cutters? Is this a good deal?
    What type/style/make of bit lasts the longest and do the best job?
    I'm working on a 57 GMC panel with forward floor panel, forward floor panel support, and lower door hinge support componentsthat have to be repaired/replaced.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2010
  2. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    send a pm to jagfixer1949 he can probably help.
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back in the day, I had good luck just using brad point drill bits
     
  4. duste01
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,209

    duste01
    Member

    lisle tool company has my business there.
     

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  5. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 976

    toddc
    Member


    Yeah, just grind your own on a wornout 5/16 drill. The point doesn't need to be anywhere near as sharp as the one in the picture, so long as its higher than the lips on the flutes.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One thing about the "hole saw" type of spot weld cutter is that they leave the "body" of the spot weld behind. You will have to sand or grind it down before fitting the new panel.

    It is an extra step, and it risks warping the unsupported edge. Be careful.

    Cobalt bits are good and hard, which is what you want, because most sharpeners, or sharpening techniques can't reproduce that tip profile.

    Whatever you use, don't overdrive it and heat it up. Use oil, if it is practical.
     
  7. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,364

    19Fordy
    Member

    If you have a grinder, you can make your own.
     

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  8. hoof22
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 530

    hoof22
    Member Emeritus

    I never had good luck with the "hole saw" type, they always seem to shatter and break at the wrong time, like when I'm working with them, but for a long time, they were what was available. Blair makes a nice unit that's the solid type, has the pilot bit to keep it aligned and leaves no welded ring behind, no grinding afterward...and they're MADE IN THE USA!

    http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html

    Eric
     
  9. dna9656
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 15

    dna9656
    Member

    Don't I know you?
     
  10. dna9656
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 15

    dna9656
    Member

    Thank you all for your response(s) and input! I will look at the mentioned types....., I would like to order 100 bits @ $1.00. a piece if they will do the job or 1 bit for $100.00that would last through the job, come with a limited lifetime warranty....
    I take it there is no experiance with the bits in question...?
    http://www.eastwood.com/colbalt-spot...6-3-8-1-2.html

    I have never had much luck sharpening drill bits to the conventional shape, I realize that I would probably save some money but right now with the limited time I have to spend out in the Puget Sound Elements (I have no garage or proper floor to work on just a board on the gravel in my drive) I'd rather spend the money being productive vs. making tools when I could be using the tools.
    Thanks again for the help!
     
  11. dna9656
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 15

    dna9656
    Member

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