other than an aftermarket center section (Ch***is Engineering, etc) I don't think any other frame mods are needed. you'll have to figure out clutch mechanism, hydraulic slave is easier than mechanical. I've got a New Venture NV3500 with integral hydraulic throwout that I'm going to try. eyeball says it'll fit.
I'm torn as to what ****** to run. I'd like to be able to drive the livin ****e out of it so I guess the t5 is the way to go. I have a nwc on its way so the shifter will be in just about the right spot. The block I have is out of a truck which means I have the right bellhousing. I guess it's a no brainer... I can't finish out the floors until I have the driveline mocked up sooooo I'll move on to the bed, it's got plenty of issues, but that's were all the fun is at. I'd still like to see anyone's pics of the mods they did, along with their wishbone mounting points, for a t5 conversion on these frames. I'd rather build my center section than buy...
Thanks for the pictures and keep us updated. Going to be a killer shop truck, my favorite as you know !
I'd still like to see anyone's pics of the mods they did, along with their wishbone mounting points, for a t5 conversion on these frames. I'd rather build my center section than buy...[/QUOTE] I suspect that the t5 needs to use mounting points like a Turbo 400. Again, the aftermarket has ready solutions, but the bottom plate is just flat and if you weld in some tapered bungs to the plate to put rod ends on the wishbones, yer done.
Hey thanks Ogden! I really appreciate the hook up on the parts! I'll keep posting and let you know how it goes. I plan on doing a white tuck and roll on the seat, should look good with the outside color...
Thanks treb I'll so a search for different kits and see. I'd still rather build I definitely want to have the bottom plate unbolt for servicing.
The white tuck and roll is kool, that's what I have in my 34, and I drive the **** out of it, but what a pain in the *** to keep the white tuck and roll clean. I will never do white again, or at least not in a rod that I plan on driving 5000 plus miles a year. Just my comment. Keep us up to date. Eric
I love 40/41 ford trucks. I will be keeping up w/ this thread. I have been looking for one for a while.
Cool truck.... excellent fab work. I've got the wasted remains of a '40 pickup in my barn that is crying to be a shop truck too. Just gotta finish my 3w first. I'll be checking back for updates.
Hey thanks for all the kind words guys! I really can't believe how few threads there are for these trucks. Does anyone have a number as to how many were made... hopefully I'll have the t5 by next week so I can finish mocking the front end and start on the rear. I plan to run an opendrive conversion to the rear with a halibrand or cyclone quick change. Does Cyclone Kevin have a website with info? all I could find was an email address...
Really nice work going on there...picking up a rough 46 pu next week - there was a thread about car and truck parts interchangement - so that is what I'm after...a little more knowledge...thanks for sharing the posts... Lawrence
Nice choice for a shop projects. Love driving my black one but I'm building another one myself. Putting a 401 nailhead in this one. You are lucky to have a nice set of steel rear fenders to work with. They are getting hard to find. Anyone have a set of gl*** fenders I could use? Nice work and I will be watching this one too. Keep the photos coming.
Shop has been eating most of my time Although I did score a T5 off of craigslist from an S10 that was being parted out. The guy didn't know what he had and asked for $50. It's in great shape and has the foward mounted shifter...ordering the mounting adapter and hydraulic clutch kit.
Well I put things on hold for a while and i figured it was time to dust things off and go at it again. I took a step back and thought about the direction for a bit a determined that I'd could get on the road a lot quicker by not using the flathead and go with a different set up. I have an old 327 that came out of a truck that everyone at the shop has been tripping over... First thing was to get the frame on the rack and level it out. We didn't set it at ride height as we were just checking for any racking in the frame and to get the rear installed. So the mock up begins... I have really enjoyed Mj40's tech bit on using front 49-54 chevy truck springs for a rear parallel system on these frames. Pretty cool that when I bought the 40 it was sitting on one of the chevy frames and provided the parts. Ede and I clamped the rear hangers where it looked centered...it will stay that way untill the new bushing bolts come in. At that time we will remove a few leaves and adjust the wheels to the fenders before drilling the holes for good. The spring pads on the axle may have to be relocated inboard about 1/2 to 1/4 inch on each side but its almost a perfect fit. Up front I had removed about 4 leaves and used a 36 4" dropped axle, but wanted more so Saturday Ede and I reversed the eyes using the shop press method posted elsewhere. Its a real simple project and gives you about another inch. We sat the cab back on to get a taste. You can also see in this pic that we added 2" blocks. I jacked the front end up to simulate being under load and decided to go ahead and raise the front cross member up 2" I love the mock up stage and its definitely the most fun part of the build I'll keep tweaking things tell everything seems right... I plan to start on the cross member Monday.
Looking nice and thanks for the comments on the rear spring set up. Enjoyed doing that tech. I need to replace the lower rear quarters on my cab also. Wish I had your equipment and metal expertise to fix mine. Will see if I can find someone to bend some up here.
Had a productive day today... We saw that the frame was about one inch higher on the driver's side. The bumper probably got tapped at some time in it's life as all the twist was just in the front frame horn area. Using a come-along and the torch we m***aged the twist out and made everything square just like in my collision days. Next we cut one side off a piece of 3/16" thick walled 2" ID square pipe to use as the new spring pocket. Ede then measured an 1 1/2" rise in the cross member which I cut out so that we could push the square pipe into place. Once it was level side to side we put in 5 to 6 degrees tilting back for the spring. Once we were happy Ede welded it in. A la Hamber Hellonwheels Now that we made the top taller I wanted to bring the bottom up to so that it would look stock when finished. Also the spring u-bolts were now just as long as the cross member was tall. So I cut out the bottom lip and sectioned it up so that the cross member would stand at about 2 3/4". The spring pack is 2" tall with some leaves removed, if it seems that the truck would wind up to low, I could add back a leaf or two. I then cut off the outer pieces and leveled across. giving me this
I'll post more as we go if you guys are interested. I'm itching to have the truck running in black epoxy for the Round Up...
The Jalopy Journal
