Will powder coating hold up on leaf springs? Will if blister off brake drums and (gasp) disc brake parts? Thanks
powder coat is basicly plastic, sooo you prob know how a plastic coating would last on springs that are rubbing together wayne
The motorcycle restorers use paint, and grease between leaves. The same thread mentioned using a mylar? masking tape over the hidden regions, and then powder coating, followed by lube and assy.
The reason I ask is Were I work I can coat all my stuff for free, plus its a lot less work than painting everything and can hold up better anyways. Just wondering about experience of people that have actually done these parts.
every thing here is powder coated and holding up fine, 4 trips to the salt with no problem. Stuff just wipes right off with a rag and kerosine. the spring stacks show wear but the sides are still presentable.
The spring on the front of my 32 is powder coated. 11,000 miles and no problems yet. I am told you have to be very careful coating springs because of the temper. Just hot enough and just long enough to make the powder flow out. I have not tried it on brake drums or rotors.
I have done leafs - it will wear where they rub, but so will paint or chrome Drums - No Problems Brakes Rotors - the hubs held up fine Calipers - Bitch to mask but no problem
I have done leafs - it will wear where they rub, but so will paint or chrome Drums - No Problems Brakes Rotors - the hubs held up fine Calipers - Bitch to mask but no problem
Hotroddon is correct with all he said , but I might add to put a little white grease between the spring leaves. I did mine and all is well.
I own a powder coating business, when we do springs we wont get them past 350 degrees in the bake oven. Powder usually cures out between 350-400 degrees. Was told by a few spring manufactures that you don't want to get them over 400 degrees because it might do something to the temper of the spring? Don't know if that's true or not? If its ever been tested I haven't a clue? We also make the customer sign a disclaimer in case one cracks or they lose their tension and sag, just trying to cover our butt! Drums and rotors I found that if you use a zinc primer powder coat first you get better adhesion and lasts a lot longer, if its a trailer queen show car where it never sees the weather then there's no need for the primer. On rough casted parts, cast iron I always use either zinc or red oxide primer first, seals it better plus you dont get the "outgassing" effects in the finished product.
My roadster drums and front drum air scoops were powdercoated and I never had any problems. They still looked like new when I sold it last month.
Heating of metals makes them able to change "character". The higher the temp, the more things like carbon move about and may cluster into larger nodes. Tempering is a skilled process, and esp. w/Aluminum, "low" heat can soften/weaken any previous strengthening.