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46 Chevy Truck Beltline Repair ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KCMongo, Jan 14, 2005.

  1. KCMongo
    Joined: Jun 19, 2003
    Posts: 246

    KCMongo
    Member
    from KC

    Ok metal masters the 46 that Raven and I are throwing together has the typical rust in the beltline that they all do, (From an earlier post I read that this was cause they put paper between the panels as anti-sqeak)
    Anyway curious if any of you guys have some good ideas as to how to fix it, I've got a few but wanted to see what the concenses was out here.

    Here's some pics..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The key to this project is quick and easy, so let's hear what you guys think.
    MONGO
     
  2. You could buy my cab in the classifieds!
     
  3. 41ChevyTrucker
    Joined: Nov 4, 2003
    Posts: 453

    41ChevyTrucker
    Member

    cut and replace? I have an extra 41-46 cab beltline section you could have but not sure how you would get it to kansas.
     
  4. Build it up with some POR15 and move on.

    If it looks like there is a strength issue you could
    weld a strap on the inside to add stiffeness.
     
  5. Best way is to cut out and replace. Second choice is to braze. This works well for pin holes. Now I'm sure someone will tell you how you can't use filler over brass. B.S. You just have to clean ALL traces of the flux off the surface. The best way is to lightly sand blast after you dress the area with a grinder. Another option would be to lead. You can sweat a patch on the back side of some of the larger holes, and fill the small ones. If your looking for an easier way out than this, then your looking at a temporary repair.
     
  6. Darby
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 426

    Darby
    Member

    Whatever you do, please post info and pic's of it! I cleaned all the bondo out of the beltline on my '39 last night, and am pondering the same question. Mine isn't nearly as bad as yours, so I'm thinking about just welding mine up. I welded up the chrome holes on my '66 this way- just held a block of aluminum (probably have to be a piece of sheet metal in this case, to get it in the seam) behind it (keeps it from arcing through, and absorbs some of the heat), made a little pool of weld in there, then ground it all flat. You may or may not be able to get away with that on yours- looks like there's a bit to be done there, and you would probably warp the hell if you're as lousy a welder as I am.

    The hack in me also knows you could lay a couple courses of fiberglas across the inside, hide it under the upholstery, and bondo the outside smooth. So far, I'm resisting the urge to do that on mine.
     
  7. Deyomatic
    Joined: Apr 17, 2002
    Posts: 3,293

    Deyomatic
    Member
    from CT

    [ QUOTE ]
    Build it up with some POR15 and move on.

    If it looks like there is a strength issue you could
    weld a strap on the inside to add stiffeness.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    This is what I'd do. There isn't much more frustrating than welding on thin metal and burning through it every time. This souds like the simplest method...
    I also wanted to bust Tyler's balls for using "strap on" and "stiffness" in the same sentence. [​IMG]
     
  8. KCMongo
    Joined: Jun 19, 2003
    Posts: 246

    KCMongo
    Member
    from KC

    Thanks for the ideas guys, keep em' coming..
    I tried backing part of it with a piece of thick copper and filling it in with the welder but that didn't work good. (did anyone know that a copper slug at a high enough temp will cut right through a thick welding glove and your finger like a knife if your not carefull).
    Also Fiberglass, Bondo and POR15 have been discussed and of them the POR15 and POR Putty are the ideas that I like best. Cutting it out and replacing is what I would really prefer to do but since I'm a novice I didn't think it would be time or cost effective for me to try to fabricate a piece that worked, I figured that was out. Also I've considered cutting it out and replacing it with flat metal then on the sides where the belt comes around the corner behind the door making it taper down to a point.

    huh..huh..You said strap on and stiffness..huh..huh..

    Our goal with this truck is quick and dirty but we're still trying to spend time on the stuff we should, I think this is one of em. Odds are down the road a chop could be in the future for this truck as well depending on how much fun we have with it once we get it on the road.

    41ChevyTrucker: Love your truck, and the chop, how big is the section you have could we cut it in half to a managable size box it and ship it? Could you shoot a pic of it and maybe we could formulate a plan.

    Mongo
     
  9. 41ChevyTrucker
    Joined: Nov 4, 2003
    Posts: 453

    41ChevyTrucker
    Member

    kc,
    PM if you are still interested. I will look them over again tonight. I have three cabs, one chopped, one cut up for parts and one sitting. I think all three have decent beltlines. I am replacing the rear section of my cab so I don't mind helping you out it will just motivate me to get mine done sooner than later.

    [​IMG]

     
  10. Its a budget rod right?
    Clean the devil out of it. Paint it good with a brush and some epoxy/glass resin to seal it up and then fill it with Kitty Hair.
    Or we can fab a new beltline from electrical conduit. Cut the old beltline out and weld the conduit in. Be prety easy across the back of the cab. The only place you'd run into a problem is where the beltline tapers.
    Or...
    I got a ton of ideas but some of them are just a $20.00 cure for a $.10 problem. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     

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