Have done the research and read all the c10 lowering threads on this and the 67-72chevy truck site and need more info. Everything I've read says that from 73-86 control arms will bolt onto my 65 frame. Which would be one of the easier ways to get correct parts and then go buy my drop spindles and springs. Then I read where a guy installed later ball joints onto his stock 68 control arms and everything else bolted on. I guess my question is, does anyone know if the 73-86 ball joints will fit my 65 control arms? Then I could just get the 73-86 drop spindles, calipers, and tie rods. I think it might be cheaper and easier this way. Not wanting to beat a dead horse with this topic, but every thread I read introduces new questions. Thanks in advance
I have been told you can use 71-72 truck spindles on 63-66 trucks just by changing the ball joints and tie rod ends. Chevrolet went to disc brakes on the trucks in '71. They may have used this spindle in more years but not sure.
That's true on the 71 and 72 spindles. The lower ball joint needs to be changed only because the threaded taper on the pre-71 ball joint won't have enough length. I am thinking the tirods are the same taper as the pre-71. I am not sure if the upper needs changing, it may be long enough. The 73-up spindles then went to a bigger tie rod tapered hole, and bigger tie rod ends. There were aftermarket adapter tie rods to use these later spindles. Or, if you can find a 3/4 centerlink and rods, those will fit the big taper 73-up spindles. My donor centerlink was from a 66 3/4 ton.
Upper and lower ball joints must be changed to use disc spindles on your current arms. The lower ball joint is the same from 71-87, but the uppers are 71-72 only and 73-87 fitment. So, choose ball joints to match your chosen spindles. You must change the steering linkage as 71-72 and 73-87 were each different than your current 69 and earlier parts. Again, get the linkage to match whatever spindles you choose. I covered this a good bit on my blog where I took photos as I converted my 63 truck to 84 Suburban front suspension. www.kneeknockertruck.blogspot.com If you're over on the 67-72 truck board too, you've likely seen my posts over there. I go by Tx Firefighter over there. By far, the easiest way to do brakes and lowering on your truck is to call Early Cl***ic Enterprises and order a pair of their spindles for your truck. They will bolt to your existing ball joints and tie rod ends with no modifications at all. The spindles run about 220 a pair for lowered versions and will save you a lot of money in the long run as you won't have to buy different ball joints, tie rods, etc.. I have used those spindles many, many times while building these old trucks.
So if I get the drop spindles from early cl***ic, the ball joints and tie rods are reusable from my 65? Just find a donor vehicle 73-87 for my brake components? Man that sounds way easier!
Adam, Yes, the spindles from ECE will bolt on with all of your existing balljoints, tie rods, etc. For rotors, you can use any 1.25 inch thick 73-87 GM rotor with calipers, pads, bearings and seals from the same. If you choose to keep your 6 lug bolt pattern, Early Cl***ic sells rotors for that too. There are no OEM lug rotors you can buy at a parts store to save any money. If you choose to buy their 6 lug rotors, again you will use bearings, seals, calipers, etc from any 73-87 truck with 1.25 rotors. All GM trucks from 71-80 used the thicker 1.25 inch rotors. In 81, GM introduced the 1 inch rotors for some applications. The heavier applications like Suburbans and trucks with heavy brake option continued to use the 1.25 rotors. To make it easiest, just ask for any year 73-80 parts at the store so you don't have to confuse the parts guy by specifying anything.
Excellent, thanks for clearing all this up! The post on the 67-72 page was really helpful, but sometimes I read too much into things and make them more difficult than they need to be. Getting started soon
I swapped the entire front cross member and susp from a 1979 into my 1970 c-10. A couple of the bolt holes lined up exactly, once I bolted it in I used the existing holes in the new cross member to line up the holes that needed to be drilled in the frame. I also found a mid 70's impala station wagon used the same spline count/ length axles in a 5 on 5 to get my wheels to match.
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