I got an old Cushman headlight that I'd like to use on a Bobber project but I'm having a little trouble cleaning it up. This thing sat outside for a bajillion years and the chrome plating on the bucket is a mess. About 85% of it has peeled off but whats left on there is all pitted and ragged. What I'd like to do is strip it all down to bare metal and paint it. Anybody know any Indian tricks to get that **** off ?
My nickel plater just did some stuff for me that was originally chrome, and he soaks the parts in acid for a few days to strip it off. It leaves the copper on as well.
I got a grill that I've stripped the chrome off of with a 2" 90* angle grinder. I used a medium roloc disc for minimal scaring. takes it off pretty good. just know to stop when you see the copper and be sure to prime it soon after.
[ QUOTE ] Tried that first, all it did was buff it. This is "REAL" chrome, not that Jap **** we see today. [/ QUOTE ] 80 grit sanding disc should do it for the chrome that's left. pigpen
take it to a bumper (or chrome) shop and tell them what you need. the first step of rechroming is to dip the part to remove the old chrome. it's done every day.
[ QUOTE ] take it to a bumper (or chrome) shop and tell them what you need. the first step of rechroming is to dip the part to remove the old chrome. it's done every day. [/ QUOTE ] closest chrome shop is 70 mi away i'm gonna try the sandpaper.
Battery acid, copper wire, and a 12vdc battery, and something lead (wheel weights). Use the lead as an electrode take a few wraps with the copper wire submerse it in the acid. Wrap copper wire around the headlight bucket and submerse it. Don't let the electrode touch the headlight bucket. Finally hook the copper wires to the battery one to neg and the other to pos. Un-hook a battery lead to stop it, you will know when to un-hook. Do this in a well ventialated space. I used a fan last time. Be patient it will take some time. tim
[ QUOTE ] Battery acid, copper wire, and a 12vdc battery, and something lead (wheel weights). Use the lead as an electrode take a few wraps with the copper wire submerse it in the acid. Wrap copper wire around the headlight bucket and submerse it. Don't let the electrode touch the headlight bucket. Finally hook the copper wires to the battery one to neg and the other to pos. Un-hook a battery lead to stop it, you will know when to un-hook. Do this in a well ventialated space. I used a fan last time. Be patient it will take some time. tim [/ QUOTE ] I like it Does the polarity of the electrodes matter ???
I do believe I've found the answer to our chrome stripping prayers. http://www.docv.org/articles/strip.htm (might want to put this in the tech section)
Too complicated, expensive, risky. Just get a bottle of Muriatic acid (they sell it at home centers for cleaning bricks) and some rags and wash it off. Be careful! That stuff is strong!
TO STRIP CHROMIUM DEPOSITS - Firstly you will need a plastic bucket, small tin of Caustic Soda, 6 Volt bike or car Battery, and a small bit of steel sheet about 3in square. (Set up as per diagram A) Method: Fill bucket with water then slowly add the caustic soda, this process generates a lot of heat so take it easy, next suspend the steel plate in the solution with a bit of steel wire and connect it to the negative terminal of the battery, you can now place the item to be stripped in the bucket, being careful not to touch the negative steel plate, now connect the battery positive to item using steel or copper wire, gas will be seen coming from the steel plate which indicates that the stripping action has commenced. Slowly the chrome will start to disappear from the item, which will then gas freely once all the chrome has been removed, if stripping hard chrome deposits be prepared for a fairly long time in stripping, however if stripping decorative chrome it will take only a few seconds, leaving the bright nickel exposed (yellow in colour as opposed to chrome blue). All stripping action will cease once the chrome has been removed. If desired nickel can be polished to a high finish at this stage.
TO STRIP NICKEL DEPOSITS - This is only necessary if the surface of the nickel is broken up by damage or rust etc. You will need a quan***y of weak Sulphuric Acid or old Battery Acid, a plastic container, (size dependant on how much acid you have, or size of job to be stripped) a 6 Volt Battery, and a 3in square section of Lead sheet (As per diagram B). Method: Immerse the lead sheet in the acid, using lead strips to electrically connect to the negative terminal of the battery. Suspend job to be stripped by copper wire and place in the solution making sure the job does not touch the negative plate, connect to the battery positive. This process take a little longer than chrome stripping due to the generally thicker deposit, keep an eye on the job as the stripping proceeds, as unlike the chrome stripping solution the nickel strip will carry on long after the nickel has gone and deeply etch into the base metal, ruining the part if you forget to remove it when the stripping is completed. TO STRIP ZINC AND CADMIUM - You will require a plastic container, and a quan***y of Hydrochoric Acid (Spirit of Salt) this is obtainable from your local hardware store and is sold for the purpose of cleaning bricks. Method : This process is purely a chemical one so a battery is not needed, simply immerse parts to be stripped in the solution, g***ing will start almost immediately and stop when all traces of cadmium or zinc are removed. This solution will also remove light surface rust fairly quickly when it is warm ie, during summer. After extended use, it will become very slow and then stop, do not throw away as it is now called "Killed Spirit" and is one of the best soldering fluxes around. TO STRIP COPPER - You will require a Plastic Container and a quan***y of Ferric Chloride which is obtainable from any electronic hobby shop, **** Smith etc, it is used for producing printed CCT boards, etching away the copper after CCT has been printed or drawn. Ferric Chloride comes either in solution or as crystals, if you obtain the crystals they will have to be diluted with water before use. On some of the decorative chrome items you have already stripped of nickel and chrome, you will find a layer of copper underneath, electroplaters use this copper layer to cut down on the labour involved in polishing steel base metals, as copper is relatively soft and takes a most brilliant polish. It does not however improve corrosion resistance as it is most commonly thought, quite the opposite is true due to electrolytic interaction between the differing layers of metals. Method: Warm solution by immersing plastic container in a larger container containing hot water, place part in solution until copper is removed. As in zinc and cadmium stripping no electrical current is required with this method. Remember it is not always necessary to strip copper, as stated previously It takes a brilliant polish, stripping will only be necessary when the plate is badly corroded or damaged. It should be remembered that rubber gloves and eye protection should be used during all stripping processes, and always keep a bucket of water handy for swilling purposes. Okay, now you have all those de-rusted, and de-plated items ready. Items to be sent for cadmium or zinc can be sent directly to the platers although burred nuts etc can be dressed up with a file, electroplating does not repair items!
credit for all that info i just posted goes to: RESTORATION HINTS & TIPS Stripping January 1987 By John Withers i just thought i'd bring it all to the HAMB for easier access. maybe we could get this moved to the Tech-O-Matic ?
[ QUOTE ] credit for all that info i just posted goes to: RESTORATION HINTS & TIPS Stripping January 1987 By John Withers i just thought i'd bring it all to the HAMB for easier access. maybe we could get this moved to the Tech-O-Matic ? [/ QUOTE ] That's the info from the link I posted earlier.
Great advice, but the waste from all these processess is controlled and costs around $250 to $550 to dispose of. Unless you want to just randomly dump it and risk horrendous fines. I also recommend anybody messing withese processess wear a respirator, G***eous chromic acid is a very severe carcinogenic, cadmium gas can kill in seconds, as can chlorine. Not meaning to put a damper on useful tips, but most shops will strip parts very cheaply and have everything in place to deal with the waste.
[ QUOTE ] Great advice, but the waste from all these processess is controlled and costs around $250 to $550 to dispose of. Unless you want to just randomly dump it and risk horrendous fines. I also recommend anybody messing withese processess wear a respirator, G***eous chromic acid is a very severe carcinogenic, cadmium gas can kill in seconds, as can chlorine. Not meaning to put a damper on useful tips, but most shops will strip parts very cheaply and have everything in place to deal with the waste. [/ QUOTE ] So....how much would you charge me to strip a headlight bucket ??
what about pot metal parts? I got some wicked mirrors but the chrome is all pealed and there is too much detail to just take a grinder to it. would a small item like this run much to get chromed?
[ QUOTE ] what about pot metal parts? I got some wicked mirrors but the chrome is all pealed and there is too much detail to just take a grinder to it. would a small item like this run much to get chromed? [/ QUOTE ] i'm no expert on chrome but it is my understanding that the most expensive part of chroming is all the labor involved in getting the part polished and ready for the chrome. especially with pot metal that is badly pitted but it CAN be fixed. don't throw those rare pot metal parts away.
If it's steel or aluminum we'll do it for $25 normally, but for Hamb'ers we do it for $20. Same price for wheels or just about anything aluminum,br***, bronze, cast or steel. Size doesn't really make a difference as long as it will fit into our tanks. The charges are just for time which is little,and power. Pot metal pieces we don't mess with, as they generally need grinding at some stage. I figure by the time you mess with the chemicals, the waste disposal problems and everything else, that stripping is better done by shops on most pieces. Some are simple enough to grind and polish at home, but grinding chrome normally leads to m***es of damage to parts, because the chrome and nickel are harder than what is underneath. It's something we always try and avoid and rarely remove chrome, nickel or copper with tools. We do it all electrochemically.
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] [/ QUOTE ] closest chrome shop is 70 mi away i'm gonna try the sandpaper. [/ QUOTE ] An hour drive each way? Friendly chrome shops often do it for cheap. Or you can sand for those two hours, and maybe still not be done. Hit the road!
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