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Can't Get My Flathead V8 Tuned Right Help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FordMan53, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. FordMan53
    Joined: Mar 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,589

    FordMan53
    Member
    from So Cal

    Here is what I have done so far. The car is a 1953 Ford Customline with the original 6 volt system, and the engine is the original 8ba.

    I have replace the plugs, plug wires, new condensor, adjusted the points, new rotor, and new cap. It is timed and I have no vacuum leaks.

    The problem is at an idle the engine is pretty shaky. Not really noticable to other guys, but I notice a difference. I do need motor mounts, which I have and they are going in. When I drive in all gears, and all speeds there is no hesitation. Just at the stop signs/lights does it feel bad.

    The car has a new Holley carb, and that (i think) has been all dialed in. (by me)

    Should I put in the new points even though the points looked fine?
     
  2. jonly
    Joined: Mar 15, 2010
    Posts: 215

    jonly
    Member

    Same issues I'm having with mine on an fe390. There are about 3 people in a 100 mile radius that can dial these in and I'm not one of them.
     
  3. shainerman
    Joined: Apr 18, 2009
    Posts: 820

    shainerman
    Member

    New point will make a difference. Make sure you get some decent ones as well. I just went through 2 sets of points from AutoZone, used Napa, and great.

    Secondly, I was having a shaky idle until about 3 hours ago when I fired my car up after swapping it to 12v this afternoon. The thing purrs like a kitten and LOVES the hotter spark.

    I reccomend NGK plugs and going to a new/different distributor if you havent yet. The 8BA needs better ignition right out of the box. Get ahold of GMC BUBBA on here and he'll straighten you right up.

    Hope this helps!
     
  4. Flathead Fever
    Joined: May 2, 2010
    Posts: 69

    Flathead Fever
    Member
    from CA

    Give the carb a little shot of propane or carb spray and see if the idle smoothes out, if the idle speed goes up its too lean, if the idle goes down its too rich, somewhere in between is the happy spot. You want to adjust the A/F idle mixture just slightly rich. If you can’t correct the problem with the A/F adjustment screws you have a vacuum leak, something is plugged or something is leaking.
    If it idles rough and smoothes out off of idle it could have a slight valve problem. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if you have a nice steady vacuum reading at idle.

    Jerry
     
  5. If you're using Champion plugs, ditch 'em. They are next to useless. NGKs run like a top in my flattie.
     
  6. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 906

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Point contacts themselves can be in adjustment, look, and be OK, but the rubbing block can be worn and throw off the dwell. Over looking the block has bitten me more than once............

    Ed
     
  7. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,654

    ems customer service
    Member

    remember todays high content of alcohol ln the gas it makes more problems then you think.
     

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